🔧 Tacoma - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

Changing the oil and filter keeps your engine lubricated and removes dirt that causes wear. On your Tacoma, you’ll drain the old oil from the oil pan, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil and verify the level.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the truck with jack stands before going under.
• ⚠️ Hot oil can burn—let the engine cool 10-20 minutes after warming it.
• ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels and leave the transmission in 1st gear.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• Funnel
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (band or cap style)
• Shop rags
• Trim clip tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off and wait 10-20 minutes so the oil drains well but isn’t scalding.
• Gather your parts and tools. Lay cardboard under the front.
• If equipped with a front splash shield, you may need to open its access flap or remove a small panel using a trim clip tool (it pops plastic clips without breaking them).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and safely support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails and lower onto them.
• Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove or open the splash shield access (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip tool to pop any plastic clips, then use a 3/8" drive ratchet as needed for any small bolts.
• Fold the access door down or remove the small panel so you can reach the drain plug and oil filter.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 5-10 minutes).
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new oil drain plug crush washer.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range) with a 14mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags so any later leak is easy to spot.

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench (band or cap style) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Check that the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (not stuck to the engine). Double-gaskets cause big leaks.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Use a finger (gloved) to apply a light film of fresh oil to the new filter’s rubber gasket.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn.
• If you prefer a torque spec and can fit the torque wrench: use a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range) with the appropriate oil filter wrench (band or cap style) and tighten to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the filter area clean with shop rags.

Step 7: Refill with oil

• Lower the truck back to level ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap.
• Place a funnel in the filler opening and add 5.5 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic engine oil.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, and set the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert fully, then re-check.
• Add oil in small amounts using the funnel until the level is at the full mark (do not overfill).
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.

Step 9: Reset the maintenance reminder light

• Turn the key to OFF.
• Press and hold the trip/ODO button.
• While holding the button, turn the key to ON (do not start).
• Keep holding until the display shows zeros/dashes and completes the reset, then release.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck for leaks after a short 5-10 minute drive.
• Verify the oil level again on level ground after the drive and top off if needed.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling drop-off location—never dump it.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.