🔧 Tacoma - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, install a new drain plug washer, and refill with fresh oil that meets Toyota specs. This keeps your 3.5L running smoothly and protects it from wear.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always work on a cool or only slightly warm engine to avoid burns from hot oil.
• ⚠️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and keep the transmission in Park.
• ⚠️ If you raise the front of the truck, always support it with jack stands under the frame; never rely on the jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; used oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ Keep rags handy; spilled oil can make the floor very slippery.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a proper recycling center or parts store, not in the trash or drain.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Socket wrench (3/8" drive)
• 🛠️ Socket wrench (1/2" drive)
• 🛠️ 10mm socket
• 🛠️ 12mm socket
• 🛠️ 14mm socket
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (3/8" or 1/2" drive)
• 🛠️ Oil filter cap wrench 64mm, 14-flute (specialty)
• 🛠️ Oil filter drain tool or Toyota filter drain adapter (specialty)
• 🛠️ Large drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🛠️ Funnel (medium)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (small)
• 🛠️ Trim clip removal tool
• 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
• 🛠️ Nitrile gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Creeper or mat

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil (API SN Plus or newer) - Qty: 6.2 quarts
• 🔩 Engine oil filter cartridge (2GR-FKS) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Oil filter housing O-ring - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Oil filter drain plug O-ring (small) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Engine oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Tacoma on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• You can do this without jacking the truck, but lifting the front slightly with a floor jack and supporting it on jack stands gives more room.
• Run the engine for 3–5 minutes, then shut it off. Slightly warm oil drains faster but is still safe to handle.
• Gather all tools and parts so you’re not crawling out mid-job.
• No battery disconnect or scan tool is required for this job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely raise and support the truck (if needed)

• Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front crossmember and lift until the front wheels are slightly off the ground.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails on both sides and slowly lower the truck onto them.
• Leave the jack in place as a backup, but do not rely on it alone.
• Give the truck a firm shake to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the front skid plate to access the oil pan

• The TRD Off-Road skid plate covers the oil pan and filter area.
• Use a 12mm socket and socket wrench (3/8" drive) to remove the four front skid plate bolts.
• Support the skid plate with one hand; it will drop slightly as bolts come out.
• Remove any rear skid plate bolts or clips with the 12mm socket and trim clip removal tool if present.
• Set the skid plate aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 3: Locate the drain plug and filter housing

• Slide under the engine on your creeper or mat.
• Find the oil pan: a black metal pan at the bottom of the engine with a plug at the rear or side.
• The drain plug is a hex-head bolt; on this engine, it uses a 14mm socket.
• The oil filter housing is a round plastic or metal canister toward the front of the pan (cartridge style), pointing downward.

Step 4: Drain the engine oil

• Position the large drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the drain plug, offset slightly toward where the oil will flow.
• Use a 14mm socket and socket wrench (3/8" drive) to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain completely; this can take 5–10 minutes.
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and wipe the plug with shop rags or paper towels.
• Install the new engine oil drain plug crush washer onto the plug.
• Once the flow has slowed to a drip, reinstall the drain plug by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench (3/8" or 1/2" drive) to tighten the drain plug to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten; the pan threads can strip.

Step 5: Drain the oil filter housing

• Move the large drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the oil filter housing.
• On the bottom center of the housing there is a small plastic drain plug (for the cartridge filter).
• Use a socket wrench (3/8" drive) with the oil filter drain tool or Toyota filter drain adapter (specialty) to gently press into or engage the housing drain port (design varies slightly).
• Once engaged, oil will begin to drain from the housing into the pan.
• Allow the housing to drain fully (a few minutes).
• Remove the drain tool and the small drain plug if your design uses a removable plug, using a flathead screwdriver (small) carefully if needed.

Step 6: Remove the oil filter housing

• Place the oil filter cap wrench 64mm, 14-flute (specialty) over the filter housing.
• Attach a socket wrench (3/8" drive) to the cap wrench.
• Turn counterclockwise to loosen the housing. It may be tight from the factory.
• Once loose, spin it off by hand and lower it straight down into the large drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) to catch any remaining oil.
• Pull the old filter cartridge out of the housing and let it drain.

Step 7: Replace the filter and O-rings

• On the housing, locate the large O-ring near the top groove. Carefully remove it with a flathead screwdriver (small), taking care not to scratch the plastic/metal.
• Remove the small O-ring from the housing’s drain plug (if separate) the same way.
• Wipe the housing clean with shop rags or paper towels.
• Install the new small O-ring on the drain plug and the new large O-ring in the correct groove on the housing.
• Lightly coat both new O-rings with clean engine oil using your finger; this helps them seal and prevents tearing.
• Insert the new engine oil filter cartridge (2GR-FKS) into the housing; it will only fit one way.
• Reinstall the filter housing drain plug if removed, tightening it snugly with the socket wrench (3/8" drive). Do not overtighten.

Step 8: Reinstall the oil filter housing

• Wipe the mounting surface on the engine where the housing seals.
• Carefully thread the housing back onto the engine by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Once hand-tight, place the oil filter cap wrench 64mm, 14-flute (specialty) back on the housing and attach the torque wrench (3/8" or 1/2" drive).
• Tighten the housing to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Stop when torque is reached; overtightening can crack the housing.

Step 9: Clean the area and reinstall the skid plate

• Spray a little brake cleaner spray on any oily surfaces around the drain plug and filter housing, then wipe with shop rags or paper towels. This helps you spot leaks later.
• Lift the skid plate back into position under the front of the truck.
• Install the front skid plate bolts by hand, then tighten them with a 12mm socket and socket wrench (3/8" drive).
• Install and tighten any rear bolts or clips using the 12mm socket and trim clip removal tool as needed.
• Tighten skid plate bolts snugly; do not strip them. Typical torque is around 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) if you want to use the torque wrench.

Step 10: Lower the truck

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the truck slightly off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the jack stands and slowly lower the truck to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 11: Refill the engine with fresh oil

• Open the hood using the interior hood release, then the safety catch under the front edge of the hood.
• Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine, labeled “SAE 0W-20”.
• Unscrew the cap by hand.
• Insert the funnel (medium) into the opening.
• Pour in about 5.5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil (API SN Plus or newer) to start.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand.

Step 12: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• While it idles, look underneath with a flashlight for leaks around the drain plug and filter housing.
• If you see any drips, shut off the engine and gently snug the leaking part using the correct socket and socket wrench (3/8" drive).
• Shut the engine off and wait at least 5 minutes so the oil can drain back into the pan.

Step 13: Check and top off oil level

• Locate the engine oil dipstick, pull it out, and wipe it clean with shop rags or paper towels.
• Reinsert the dipstick fully, then pull it out again to read the level.
• The oil should be between the “Low” and “Full” marks, ideally closer to “Full.”
• If it’s low, remove the filler cap and add oil in small amounts (about 0.2–0.3 quart at a time) using the funnel (medium), then recheck.
• Total capacity with filter is about 6.2 quarts, but always go by the dipstick.

Step 14: Reset the maintenance reminder

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine off) with the push button or key.
• Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the multi-information display to the settings or gear icon.
• Go to Menu > Settings > Maintenance Reset or similar wording, then select engine oil and confirm reset.
• Names vary slightly, but follow on-screen prompts.

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✅ After Repair

• Check under the truck again after your first short drive (5–10 km) for any fresh oil spots around the drain plug, filter housing, or skid plate area.
• Confirm the oil level is still at the proper mark on the dipstick once the engine has cooled and the truck is on level ground.
• Make a note of the mileage and date so you know when the next oil change is due.
• Take your used oil and old filter to a local recycling center or parts store that accepts used oil.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120–$180 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45–$80 (parts only)

You Save: $75–$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections above to add everything to your cart.