🔧 Rogue - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll be draining the old oil, replacing the oil filter and drain plug washer, then refilling with fresh engine oil. This keeps your engine protected, quiet, and running efficiently.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always work on a cool engine or only slightly warm; hot oil can cause serious burns.
• 🛑 Park the Rogue on level ground, engage the parking brake, and put the transmission in P.
• 🛑 If you raise the front, support it with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses and nitrile or mechanic gloves to protect from hot oil and chemicals.
• 🛑 Keep rags ready; clean up any oil spills immediately to avoid slips.
• 🛑 Used oil and filters are hazardous waste—dispose of them at a proper recycling or service center.
• 🛑 No battery disconnection is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 10mm socket
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 Socket wrench (3/8" drive)
• 🧰 Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 5–75 ft-lb range)
• 🧰 Oil filter cap wrench (for Nissan canister filters) (specialty)
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Drain pan (at least 8-liter capacity)
• 🧰 Funnel (clean, medium size)
• 🧰 Shop rags or paper towels
• 🧰 Work light or flashlight
• 🧰 Nitrile or mechanic gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

A torque wrench lets you tighten bolts to exact tightness.

An oil filter cap wrench grips the round filter so it can turn.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🧩 0W-20 synthetic engine oil (API SN or SN Plus or higher) - Qty: 5 quarts (4.7–4.9 liters)
• 🧩 Engine oil filter (spin-on type, for 2.5L QR25DE) - Qty: 1
• 🧩 Engine oil drain plug crush washer (14mm, aluminum) - Qty: 1
• 🧩 Engine under-cover push clips (replacement, assorted Nissan type) - Qty: 4–6 (optional, if old clips break)
• 🧩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1 can (for cleaning any oil residue)
• 🧩 Disposable oil drain pan liner or heavy-duty trash bag - Qty: 1 (optional, easier cleanup)

Always replace the crush washer to help prevent leaks.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🔧 Park the Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in P.
• 🔧 Let the engine run for 3–5 minutes, then turn it off; slightly warm oil drains faster but should not be too hot.
• 🔧 Gather all tools and parts within reach to avoid crawling in and out repeatedly.
• 🔧 If using a floor jack, chock the rear wheels and raise the front at the center front jacking point, then support both front sides with jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds.
• 🔧 Open the hood and locate the engine oil filler cap (on top of the engine) and the dipstick.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the underside of your Rogue

• Use the floor jack (3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the Rogue at the front center jacking point behind the lower radiator support.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds, then gently lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Position wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Test stability by gently shaking the vehicle before going under.

Step 2: Remove the front engine undercover panel

• Slide under the front of the Rogue with your work light.
• Use the 10mm socket and socket wrench to remove the small bolts holding the plastic undercover.
• Use the flathead screwdriver to carefully pry out any plastic push clips.
• Lower the undercover and set it aside.

Step 3: Position drain pan and locate drain plug & filter

• Place the drain pan under the engine oil pan drain plug (bottom of the metal pan at the rear of the engine).
• Note the oil filter location: on the front side of the engine, pointing downward.
• Center the pan slightly back from the plug; oil will arc out.

Step 4: Remove the oil filler cap (top of engine)

• Go up to the engine bay and twist off the oil filler cap by hand.
• This lets air in so oil drains faster.

Step 5: Drain the old engine oil

• Return underneath with the 14mm socket and socket wrench.
• Loosen the drain plug (turn counterclockwise) while holding it with your fingers as it comes free so it doesn’t fall into the pan.
• Let the oil drain completely into the drain pan; this may take 5–10 minutes.
• Wiggle the vehicle slightly to help the last bit drain.

Step 6: Install new crush washer and drain plug

• Once dripping slows to an occasional drip, wipe around the drain hole with shop rags.
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new crush washer in its place.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Never overtighten; the oil pan is aluminum.

Step 7: Remove the old oil filter

• Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter; some oil will spill when it’s removed.
• Place the oil filter cap wrench (specialty) over the filter, attach the socket wrench, and turn counterclockwise to loosen.
• Once loose, spin it off by hand and let remaining oil drain into the pan.
• Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with shop rags.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine; it must come off with the old filter.

Step 8: Install the new oil filter

• Take the new oil filter and lightly coat the rubber gasket with fresh engine oil using a gloved finger.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket makes contact with the mounting surface.
• Then tighten the filter an additional 2/3 to 3/4 turn by hand, or use the oil filter cap wrench and torque wrench to tighten to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) if specified by the filter manufacturer.
• Hand snug, not “as tight as possible.”

Step 9: Clean up the underside

• Use brake cleaner spray on a rag to clean any oil residue around the drain plug and filter area.
• Make sure the drain pan is moved aside safely.

Step 10: Reinstall the engine undercover

• Lift the plastic undercover back into position under the front of the Rogue.
• Install the bolts using the 10mm socket and socket wrench, tightening them snug (do not overtighten—just firm hand tight).
• Reinstall any plastic push clips; if any are damaged, replace with new ones.

Step 11: Lower the Rogue

• Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly, remove the jack stands, then slowly lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks once you’re finished.

Step 12: Add new engine oil

• Place the funnel into the oil filler opening on top of the engine.
• Pour in about 4.5 quarts (4.3 liters) of 0W-20 synthetic engine oil slowly.
• Wait a minute, then use the dipstick to check the oil level: wipe, reinsert fully, pull out again, and read.
• Add oil in small amounts until the level is between the MIN and MAX marks, preferably near the MAX but not over.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand and snug it down.

Step 13: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath the Rogue with your work light to check the drain plug and oil filter areas for any leaks.
• If you see drips, shut off the engine and slightly tighten the leaking part with the appropriate tool (14mm socket for drain plug or oil filter cap wrench for filter), but do not overtighten.
• Turn the engine off and wait 2–3 minutes for the oil to settle.

Step 14: Final oil level check

• With the Rogue on level ground and engine off for a few minutes, pull the dipstick again.
• Top up with a small amount of oil if needed to bring the level just below the MAX mark.
• Reinstall the dipstick fully and ensure the oil filler cap is secured.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔁 Properly transfer used oil and the old filter from the drain pan into a sealable container and take them to a local recycling or service center.
• 🔁 Check the area around the drain plug and filter after a short drive (5–10 minutes) to make sure there are no fresh leaks.
• 🔁 Note your mileage and date; plan to change oil again at the interval recommended in your owner’s manual.
• 🔁 If any warning lights appear on the dash or you notice unusual engine noises, shut the engine off and re-check the oil level immediately.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90–$140 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40–$70 (parts only)

You Save: $50–$70 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–0.8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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