How to Change Engine Oil and Filter on a 2015 Nissan Rogue 2.5L
Step-by-step DIY oil and filter change with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Change Engine Oil and Filter on a 2015 Nissan Rogue 2.5L
Step-by-step DIY oil and filter change with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings


🔧 Rogue - Engine Oil & Filter Change
You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, install a new drain plug washer, and refill with fresh oil. This keeps your engine protected, quiet, and running longer.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0–1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Work on a cool or just-warm engine; hot oil can burn skin.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; oil can drip or splash unexpectedly.
- ⚠️ Keep the area under the Rogue clear; do not crawl under while lifting or lowering.
- ⚠️ Set the parking brake and chock (block) the rear wheels to prevent rolling.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine without oil in it at any time.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
- 🛠️ Wheel chocks
- 🛠️ 10mm socket
- 🛠️ 14mm socket
- 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
- 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (7–75 ft-lbs range)
- 🛠️ Oil filter wrench (strap or cap style, specialty)
- 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
- 🛠️ Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
- 🛠️ Funnel (medium or large)
- 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
- 🛠️ Nitrile or mechanic gloves
- 🛠️ Work light or flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔩 Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
- 🔩 Engine oil filter (spin-on type, for Rogue 2.5L) - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Oil drain plug crush washer (aluminum) - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Brake cleaner or parts cleaner spray - Qty: 1 can
- 🔩 Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
📋 Before You Begin
- Park the Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- If the engine is cold, you can start it and let it idle for 2–3 minutes to slightly warm the oil. Warm oil drains faster.
- Turn the engine off and remove the key from the vehicle.
- Gather all tools and parts so you don’t need to crawl out from under the car mid-job.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the front of the Rogue
- Use the floor jack (3-ton) on the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper, on the subframe crossmember) to lift the front of the car.
- Place jack stands under the factory pinch welds just behind each front wheel, then slowly lower the car onto the stands with the floor jack.
- Give the car a gentle push to confirm it is stable on the jack stands before going underneath.
Step 2: Remove the front engine under-cover panel
- Slide the drain pan, tools, and work light under the front of the Rogue.
- Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the small bolts holding the front plastic under-cover (splash shield).
- Use the flathead screwdriver to gently pop out any plastic clips if present.
- Lower the panel and set it aside where you won’t step on it.
Step 3: Locate the drain plug and oil filter
- Position your work light so you can see clearly.
- Find the oil pan at the bottom of the engine; the drain plug is a single bolt at the lowest point, facing the rear.
- Locate the spin-on oil filter on the front side of the engine block, accessible from below.
Step 4: Drain the old engine oil
- Place the drain pan under the drain plug, slightly toward the rear (oil shoots out a bit when first loosened).
- Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug carefully by hand at the end.
- Let the oil drain completely until it slows to a very small drip; this can take 5–10 minutes. Be patient for a cleaner job.
Step 5: Install new crush washer and drain plug
- While the oil is finishing draining, wipe the drain plug threads clean with a shop rag.
- Remove the old metal crush washer from the drain plug and install the new crush washer in its place.
- Once the oil has nearly stopped dripping, wipe the oil pan drain area with a shop rag.
- Thread the drain plug with new washer in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 14mm socket and then the torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove the old oil filter
- Move the drain pan under the oil filter, as some oil will spill out.
- Use the oil filter wrench (specialty) to turn the old filter counterclockwise until it’s loose.
- Spin the filter off by hand and keep it level to reduce drips; place it upside-down in the drain pan.
- Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a shop rag. Make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine; you should only see clean metal.
Step 7: Prepare and install the new oil filter
- Open a bottle of the new 0W-20 oil.
- Use a finger to spread a thin film of clean oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket. This helps prevent leaks.
- If the filter is mounted vertically, you can partially fill it (about halfway) with fresh oil to reduce dry start time, then carry it carefully to avoid spills.
- Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface.
- Tighten the filter by hand an additional 2/3 to 1 full turn. If using a torque-cap style oil filter wrench, tighten to about 17 Nm (13 ft-lbs), but do not over-tighten.
Step 8: Clean up underneath and reinstall under-cover
- Spray a little brake cleaner on a rag and wipe around the drain plug and filter areas to remove any spilled oil.
- Confirm the drain plug and filter are both snug and properly seated.
- Reinstall the plastic under-cover panel using the 10mm socket for the bolts and the flathead screwdriver to push in any clips.
Step 9: Lower the Rogue back to the ground
- Use the floor jack to carefully lift the front just enough to remove the jack stands.
- Lower the car completely to the ground with the floor jack and remove the jack and wheel chocks.
Step 10: Add new engine oil
- Open the hood using the interior hood release, then the safety latch at the front of the hood.
- Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (usually marked “Engine Oil” or symbol).
- Place the funnel into the filler hole.
- Pour in 4.5 quarts of 0W-20 oil through the funnel to start.
- Reinstall the oil filler cap loosely for now (just so nothing falls in).
Step 11: Start engine and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
- Turn the engine off and wait about 2–3 minutes for the oil to settle.
- Look underneath (from outside, not crawling fully under) with the work light to check around the drain plug and filter for any drips or wet spots.
- If you see leaks, slightly tighten the leaking part using the correct socket or oil filter wrench, then recheck.
Step 12: Check and top off oil level
- Pull out the engine oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a shop rag, then reinsert fully and pull it out again to read the level.
- The oil level should be between the “L/LOW” and “H/FULL” marks, ideally near the top mark.
- If it’s below the top mark, add oil in small amounts (about 0.25 quart at a time) through the funnel, then recheck the dipstick.
- Total capacity for your Rogue with filter change is about 4.6 L (4.9 quarts), so you will likely use close to all 5 quarts but verify by the dipstick, not just the number.
Step 13: Reset the maintenance reminder (if equipped)
- Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine.
- Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the dash display: Menu > Settings > Maintenance > Oil and Filter.
- Select “Reset” or “Reset Distance” and confirm.
✅ After Repair
- Check the ground under the Rogue after your first short drive (5–10 km) to confirm there are no new oil spots.
- Recheck the oil level with the dipstick the next morning and top up if needed.
- Note the date and mileage so you know when the next oil change is due.
- Dispose of the used oil and filter at a proper recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $80–$140 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35–$65 (parts only)
You Save: $45–$75 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–0.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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