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2015 Nissan Rogue
2015 Nissan Rogue
SV - Inline 4 2.5L
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2015 Nissan Rogue 2.5L Oil Change

2015 Nissan Rogue 2.5L Oil Change

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
14mm
14mm
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or (17/32")
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How to Change Engine Oil and Filter on a 2015 Nissan Rogue 2.5L

Step-by-step DIY oil and filter change with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

How to Change Engine Oil and Filter on a 2015 Nissan Rogue 2.5L

Step-by-step DIY oil and filter change with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Rogue - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, install a new drain plug washer, and refill with fresh oil. This keeps your engine protected, quiet, and running longer.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0–1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Work on a cool or just-warm engine; hot oil can burn skin.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; oil can drip or splash unexpectedly.
  • ⚠️ Keep the area under the Rogue clear; do not crawl under while lifting or lowering.
  • ⚠️ Set the parking brake and chock (block) the rear wheels to prevent rolling.
  • ⚠️ Do not start the engine without oil in it at any time.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
  • 🛠️ Wheel chocks
  • 🛠️ 10mm socket
  • 🛠️ 14mm socket
  • 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (7–75 ft-lbs range)
  • 🛠️ Oil filter wrench (strap or cap style, specialty)
  • 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
  • 🛠️ Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
  • 🛠️ Funnel (medium or large)
  • 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
  • 🛠️ Nitrile or mechanic gloves
  • 🛠️ Work light or flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 🔩 Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
  • 🔩 Engine oil filter (spin-on type, for Rogue 2.5L) - Qty: 1
  • 🔩 Oil drain plug crush washer (aluminum) - Qty: 1
  • 🔩 Brake cleaner or parts cleaner spray - Qty: 1 can
  • 🔩 Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park the Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • If the engine is cold, you can start it and let it idle for 2–3 minutes to slightly warm the oil. Warm oil drains faster.
  • Turn the engine off and remove the key from the vehicle.
  • Gather all tools and parts so you don’t need to crawl out from under the car mid-job.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the Rogue

  • Use the floor jack (3-ton) on the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper, on the subframe crossmember) to lift the front of the car.
  • Place jack stands under the factory pinch welds just behind each front wheel, then slowly lower the car onto the stands with the floor jack.
  • Give the car a gentle push to confirm it is stable on the jack stands before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the front engine under-cover panel

  • Slide the drain pan, tools, and work light under the front of the Rogue.
  • Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the small bolts holding the front plastic under-cover (splash shield).
  • Use the flathead screwdriver to gently pop out any plastic clips if present.
  • Lower the panel and set it aside where you won’t step on it.

Step 3: Locate the drain plug and oil filter

  • Position your work light so you can see clearly.
  • Find the oil pan at the bottom of the engine; the drain plug is a single bolt at the lowest point, facing the rear.
  • Locate the spin-on oil filter on the front side of the engine block, accessible from below.

Step 4: Drain the old engine oil

  • Place the drain pan under the drain plug, slightly toward the rear (oil shoots out a bit when first loosened).
  • Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug carefully by hand at the end.
  • Let the oil drain completely until it slows to a very small drip; this can take 5–10 minutes. Be patient for a cleaner job.

Step 5: Install new crush washer and drain plug

  • While the oil is finishing draining, wipe the drain plug threads clean with a shop rag.
  • Remove the old metal crush washer from the drain plug and install the new crush washer in its place.
  • Once the oil has nearly stopped dripping, wipe the oil pan drain area with a shop rag.
  • Thread the drain plug with new washer in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 14mm socket and then the torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the old oil filter

  • Move the drain pan under the oil filter, as some oil will spill out.
  • Use the oil filter wrench (specialty) to turn the old filter counterclockwise until it’s loose.
  • Spin the filter off by hand and keep it level to reduce drips; place it upside-down in the drain pan.
  • Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a shop rag. Make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine; you should only see clean metal.

Step 7: Prepare and install the new oil filter

  • Open a bottle of the new 0W-20 oil.
  • Use a finger to spread a thin film of clean oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket. This helps prevent leaks.
  • If the filter is mounted vertically, you can partially fill it (about halfway) with fresh oil to reduce dry start time, then carry it carefully to avoid spills.
  • Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface.
  • Tighten the filter by hand an additional 2/3 to 1 full turn. If using a torque-cap style oil filter wrench, tighten to about 17 Nm (13 ft-lbs), but do not over-tighten.

Step 8: Clean up underneath and reinstall under-cover

  • Spray a little brake cleaner on a rag and wipe around the drain plug and filter areas to remove any spilled oil.
  • Confirm the drain plug and filter are both snug and properly seated.
  • Reinstall the plastic under-cover panel using the 10mm socket for the bolts and the flathead screwdriver to push in any clips.

Step 9: Lower the Rogue back to the ground

  • Use the floor jack to carefully lift the front just enough to remove the jack stands.
  • Lower the car completely to the ground with the floor jack and remove the jack and wheel chocks.

Step 10: Add new engine oil

  • Open the hood using the interior hood release, then the safety latch at the front of the hood.
  • Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (usually marked “Engine Oil” or symbol).
  • Place the funnel into the filler hole.
  • Pour in 4.5 quarts of 0W-20 oil through the funnel to start.
  • Reinstall the oil filler cap loosely for now (just so nothing falls in).

Step 11: Start engine and check for leaks

  • Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
  • Turn the engine off and wait about 2–3 minutes for the oil to settle.
  • Look underneath (from outside, not crawling fully under) with the work light to check around the drain plug and filter for any drips or wet spots.
  • If you see leaks, slightly tighten the leaking part using the correct socket or oil filter wrench, then recheck.

Step 12: Check and top off oil level

  • Pull out the engine oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a shop rag, then reinsert fully and pull it out again to read the level.
  • The oil level should be between the “L/LOW” and “H/FULL” marks, ideally near the top mark.
  • If it’s below the top mark, add oil in small amounts (about 0.25 quart at a time) through the funnel, then recheck the dipstick.
  • Total capacity for your Rogue with filter change is about 4.6 L (4.9 quarts), so you will likely use close to all 5 quarts but verify by the dipstick, not just the number.

Step 13: Reset the maintenance reminder (if equipped)

  • Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine.
  • Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the dash display: Menu > Settings > Maintenance > Oil and Filter.
  • Select “Reset” or “Reset Distance” and confirm.

✅ After Repair

  • Check the ground under the Rogue after your first short drive (5–10 km) to confirm there are no new oil spots.
  • Recheck the oil level with the dipstick the next morning and top up if needed.
  • Note the date and mileage so you know when the next oil change is due.
  • Dispose of the used oil and filter at a proper recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $80–$140 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35–$65 (parts only)

You Save: $45–$75 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–0.8 hours.


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