🔧 Corolla - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter cartridge, and refill with fresh oil that meets Toyota specs. This keeps the engine in your Corolla lubricated, cool, and clean so it lasts longer.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always support the car with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
• 🔥 Let the engine cool at least 20–30 minutes; hot oil can burn skin.
• 🧯 Keep the area well ventilated and away from open flames or smoking; oil and vapors are flammable.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses to protect your skin and eyes from hot oil and debris.
• 🧼 Clean up spills immediately and dispose of old oil and the used filter at a recycling center or shop.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 10mm socket
• 🧰 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🧰 3/8" drive torque wrench (5–75 ft-lbs range)
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
• 🧰 3/8" drive extension (3–6")
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Oil drain pan (at least 8-liter capacity)
• 🧰 Funnel (small to medium)
• 🧰 Shop towels or rags
• 🧰 Latex or nitrile gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses
• 🧰 Plastic trim clip remover (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🛢️ Engine oil (SAE 0W-20 full synthetic, API SN or higher) - Qty: 5 quarts (you’ll use about 4.5 quarts)
• 🛢️ Engine oil filter cartridge kit (with large O-ring and small O-ring) - Qty: 1
• 🛢️ Engine oil drain plug gasket (crush washer) - Qty: 1
• 🛢️ Shop towels - Qty: as needed
• 🛢️ Brake cleaner or parts cleaner spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Corolla on a flat, solid surface. Put the transmission in P and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the car cannot roll.
• Let the engine cool until it’s warm to the touch, not hot. Warm oil drains faster, but should not burn you.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to crawl out from under the car mid-job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Corolla from the front center jacking point (under the front subframe area, behind the front bumper).
• Place jack stands under the factory pinch welds on both sides, just behind the front wheels.
• Lower the car gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Give the car a firm shake at the front corners to confirm it is stable on the jack stands.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (splash shield)

• Slide the oil drain pan and tools near the front underside of the car.
• Use a 10mm socket with the 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the bolts holding the plastic engine cover.
• Use the plastic trim clip remover or flathead screwdriver to gently pop out any plastic clips.
• Lower the cover and set it aside where you won’t step on it.

Step 3: Loosen the oil filler cap on top

• Open the hood using the interior hood release and the under-hood latch.
• Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine cover marked “SAE 0W-20”.
• Loosen and remove it by hand to help oil drain faster. Set the cap somewhere clean.

Step 4: Drain the engine oil from the oil pan

• Under the car, find the engine oil pan (metal pan at the bottom of the engine) and its 14mm drain plug at the rear of the pan.
• Position the oil drain pan under the drain plug, slightly toward the rear because oil will shoot out at an angle.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to carefully loosen the drain plug. Finish removing it by hand and let the oil drain completely.
• Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and wipe the plug clean with a rag.
• Allow oil to drip until it is down to a slow drip, usually 5–10 minutes. Be patient, let it drain fully

Step 5: Reinstall the oil drain plug

• Install a new drain plug gasket on the cleaned drain plug.
• Thread the drain plug back into the oil pan by hand first so you don’t cross-thread it.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten the plug to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
• Wipe any spilled oil off the oil pan area with shop towels.

Step 6: Remove the oil filter housing drain plug (small plug)

• Locate the oil filter housing near the front of the engine, under the car. It is a round, light-colored plastic housing.
• In the center of the housing is a small plug designed to drain the housing.
• Use the 3/8" drive ratchet (no socket) inserted directly into the square hole of the small plug to loosen and remove it. Have the oil drain pan positioned underneath.
• Allow oil to drain from the small center hole into the pan for several minutes.
• Once it slows to a drip, you can reinstall the small plug by hand, then lightly snug it with the 3/8" drive ratchet (do not overtighten). Just snug, it’s a small plug

Step 7: Remove the main oil filter housing

• Place the oil drain pan under the housing again in case of more drips.
• Fit the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench over the housing.
• Attach the 3/8" drive ratchet (and extension if needed) to the cap wrench.
• Turn counterclockwise to loosen and remove the housing. Some more oil may drain as you remove it.
• Pull the housing down and remove the old filter cartridge from inside. Note which end faces up.

Step 8: Replace the filter cartridge and O-rings

• Use shop towels to clean the inside of the housing and the sealing surfaces.
• Remove the large O-ring from the outside of the housing using the flathead screwdriver carefully (do not scratch the plastic).
• Remove the small O-ring from the small center plug if your new kit includes it.
• Lightly coat the new large O-ring and small O-ring with fresh engine oil from a bottle or from a clean finger.
• Install the new large O-ring in the correct groove on the housing (usually the second groove from the end). Do not twist the O-ring
• Install the new small O-ring on the small center plug if applicable.
• Insert the new filter cartridge into the housing in the same orientation as the old one (open end toward the engine side).

Step 9: Reinstall the oil filter housing

• Wipe the mounting surface on the engine where the housing contacts it.
• Thread the housing up into the engine by hand, making sure it goes in smoothly and does not cross-thread.
• Install the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench on the housing and attach the 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Tighten the housing to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs). Do not overtighten; it is plastic.
• Confirm the small center plug is snug again with the 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 10: Reinstall the lower engine cover

• Lift the plastic lower engine cover back into place under the front of the car.
• Install the bolts with the 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet by hand first, then snug them.
• Reinstall the plastic clips using your fingers or the plastic trim clip remover to push them in securely.

Step 11: Refill engine oil from the top

• At the top of the engine, insert a funnel into the oil filler hole.
• Pour in about 4.0 quarts of new 0W-20 oil slowly to avoid spills.
• Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand and turn it until snug.

Step 12: Start engine and check for leaks

• Remove tools and the oil drain pan from under the car.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath with a flashlight and check around the drain plug and oil filter housing for any fresh oil leaks.
• If dry, turn off the engine and wait 5 minutes for the oil to settle.

Step 13: Check oil level and adjust

• Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert fully, then pull it out again.
• The oil should be between the “LOW” and “FULL” marks. Add oil in small amounts (about 0.1–0.2 quart) through the funnel if needed.
• Final capacity with filter is about 4.4 quarts (4.2 liters), but always go by the dipstick.
• Once correct, reinstall the dipstick and oil cap and close the hood.

Step 14: Lower the car

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of the car slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands and lower the car slowly back to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Take a short test drive (5–10 minutes), then park on level ground and re-check the oil level with the dipstick once the engine has been off for 5 minutes.
• 🔍 Inspect under the car again for any fresh oil leaks around the drain plug and filter housing.
• 🗑️ Pour the used oil from the pan into a sealed container and take the used oil and old filter to a recycling center or service station that accepts waste oil.
• 📝 Note the mileage and date so you know when the next oil change is due.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $80–$140 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35–$65 (parts only)

You Save: $45–$75 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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