🔧 Escape - Engine Oil & Filter Change

You’ll be draining the old engine oil from your Escape, replacing the oil filter, and refilling with fresh oil. This keeps the 1.5L EcoBoost lubricated, running cooler, and extends engine life.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine if possible; hot oil can cause burns.
• ⚠️ Always support the Escape with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and nitrile or mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and skin.
• ⚠️ Keep the area under the engine clean and dry to avoid slips.
• ⚠️ Used oil is hazardous waste; plan where you’ll recycle it (parts stores usually take it).
• Battery does not need to be disconnected for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 2-ton or higher, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 15mm socket
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Torx T30 screwdriver
• 🛠️ 7mm socket
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Oil filter wrench (band, cap, or strap type) (specialty)
• 🛠️ Oil drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• 🛠️ Funnel (medium size)
• 🛠️ Shop towels or rags
• 🛠️ Latex or nitrile gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Creeper or piece of cardboard

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Engine oil (5W-20 full synthetic, Ford-approved) - Qty: ~5 quarts (you’ll use about 4–4.5)
• 🔩 Engine oil filter (for 1.5L EcoBoost) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Oil drain plug washer (crush washer, if equipped) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Disposable gloves - Qty: 1 pack
• 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
• 🔩 Brake cleaner or degreaser spray - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Escape on level ground, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in P (Park).
• Start the engine and let it run for 2–3 minutes to slightly warm the oil (it flows out easier), then shut it off.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t crawl in and out repeatedly.
• Plan where you’ll take the used oil and filter for recycling.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Escape

• Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper, on the subframe crossmember).
• Jack the front of the Escape up high enough to work comfortably underneath.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds or frame points, then slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it is stable.
• Never work under a car supported only by a jack.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Engine Cover (Splash Shield)

• Position your oil drain pan and creeper or cardboard under the front of the engine.
• Use a Torx T30 screwdriver to remove the Torx screws holding the front of the plastic shield.
• Use a 7mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any 7mm bolts at the rear of the shield.
• If there are plastic push clips, gently pry them with a flathead screwdriver (medium).
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside in order so reinstallation is easy.

Step 3: Locate the Drain Plug and Oil Filter

• Under the engine, find the oil pan (metal pan at the bottom of the engine).
• The drain plug is a single bolt on the bottom or rear side of the pan, typically using a 15mm socket.
• Look nearby for the spin-on oil filter (round metal canister). It may be mounted on the front or side of the engine block.
• Wipe both areas with a rag so you can spot leaks later.

Step 4: Drain the Old Engine Oil

• Slide the oil drain pan under the drain plug, slightly toward the direction oil will flow.
• Use a 15mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
• Finish removing the plug by hand; be careful, the oil may be warm and can come out quickly.
• Let the oil drain completely for at least 5–10 minutes until it slows to a drip.
• Inspect the drain plug and washer; replace the oil drain plug washer if it’s crushed, damaged, or missing.

Step 5: Reinstall and Torque the Drain Plug

• Clean the drain plug and the area around the drain hole with shop towels.
• Thread the drain plug back in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 15mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to snug it up.
• Attach the 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range) with the 15mm socket and tighten the plug to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten; the pan threads can strip.

Step 6: Remove the Old Oil Filter

• Move the oil drain pan under the oil filter; some oil will spill as you remove it.
• Use your oil filter wrench (specialty) to turn the filter counterclockwise until it loosens.
• Spin the filter off the rest of the way by hand and let oil drain into the pan.
• Check the filter mounting surface on the engine to make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck there.
• Two gaskets stacked will cause a big oil leak.

Step 7: Install the New Oil Filter

• Take the new engine oil filter out of its box.
• Dip a clean finger into fresh engine oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket on the new filter.
• Thread the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket first contacts the mounting surface.
• Then tighten it an additional 3/4 turn by hand. If needed, gently snug with the oil filter wrench (specialty), but do not overtighten.
• Hand tight plus 3/4 turn is usually enough.

Step 8: Reinstall the Lower Engine Cover

• Lift the splash shield back into position under the engine.
• Start all Torx screws and bolts by hand to align the holes.
• Use the Torx T30 screwdriver to tighten the Torx screws snugly.
• Use the 7mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to reinstall any 7mm bolts.
• Reinstall any plastic clips using the flathead screwdriver (medium) if needed.

Step 9: Lower the Escape Back to the Ground

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands from both sides.
• Slowly lower the Escape to the ground with the floor jack.
• Remove the wheel chocks from behind the rear wheels.

Step 10: Add Fresh Engine Oil

• Open the hood and locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine (usually marked “OIL” or with an oil can symbol).
• Remove the oil cap by turning it counterclockwise.
• Place the funnel in the opening.
• Pour in about 4.0 quarts of the new engine oil.
• Reinstall the oil cap by hand and snug it.
• We’ll fine-tune the level after the engine runs.

Step 11: Start the Engine and Check for Leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for about 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath (from the front, without crawling fully under) at the drain plug and oil filter area.
• If you see any drips, shut the engine off and gently tighten the leaking part using the 15mm socket (for drain plug) or oil filter wrench (specialty) (for filter).
• After confirming there are no leaks, shut the engine off and wait a few minutes to let the oil drain back to the pan.

Step 12: Check and Adjust Oil Level

• Pull out the engine oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a shop towel, then reinsert it fully and pull it out again.
• Check that the oil level is between the MIN and MAX marks, ideally near the top mark.
• If it’s low, add oil in small amounts (about 0.25 quart) through the funnel, then recheck the dipstick.
• Typical total fill is a bit over 4 quarts; do not exceed the MAX mark.

Step 13: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Turn the ignition to ON (engine can be off) so the dash is lit.
• Use the left steering wheel buttons to navigate the instrument cluster menu.
• Go to: Menu > Settings > Oil Life (or Vehicle settings > Oil Life).
• Select Oil Life Reset, then confirm reset to 100%.
• If the wording differs slightly, follow the closest “Oil Life” option.

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✅ After Repair

• Take a short test drive (5–10 minutes), then park on level ground and recheck the oil level with the dipstick once more, topping up if needed.
• Look under the Escape again for any fresh oil drips from the drain plug or filter.
• Confirm the instrument cluster shows the oil life at 100% and no oil warning lights.
• Pour used oil from the drain pan into sealed containers and take them, along with the old filter, to a recycling center or parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90–$150 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40–$70 (parts only)

You Save: $50–$80 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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