🔧 Fusion - Transmission Fluid Change (eCVT Drain & Fill)

On your Fusion Hybrid, the “transmission” is an eCVT (hybrid transaxle). A normal service is a drain-and-fill (not a flush) to refresh the fluid and help extend transaxle life.

Assumption: Your Fusion has the Ford HF35-style eCVT with a drain plug and a side fill/level plug (most common on this model).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, level surface; support the car with jack stands, never a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The hybrid system is high voltage; you do not need to touch orange cables for this job—avoid them entirely.
• ⚠️ Transmission fluid can be hot; let the car cool if you can’t touch nearby metal comfortably.
• ⚠️ Keep fluid off exhaust and belts; clean spills immediately with shop towels.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for a simple drain-and-fill.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Socket set (8mm-13mm)
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty)
• Hex bit socket set (5mm-10mm)
• 3/8" drive extension
• Infrared thermometer (specialty)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• Brake cleaner

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Automatic transmission fluid (MERCON LV) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Transmission drain plug seal/washer - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Warm the transaxle slightly with a 10–15 minute drive so the fluid drains well (not fully hot).
• Lift the front safely using a floor jack and place the car on jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Lay out tools and keep brake cleaner and shop towels ready for cleanup.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (undertray)

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out any plastic push-clips without breaking them.
• Set the shield and hardware aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 2: Locate the drain plug and fill/level plug

• Place the drain pan under the transaxle.
• Find the bottom drain plug on the transaxle case.
• Find the side fill/level plug (this is the opening you’ll pump new fluid into).
• Tip: Always loosen the fill plug first.

Step 3: Loosen the fill/level plug first

• Use the correct hex bit socket (or the appropriate drive) with a ratchet to crack the fill/level plug loose.
• If it won’t loosen, stop here—don’t drain it yet. (You must be able to refill it.)

Step 4: Drain the old transmission fluid

• Use the correct hex bit socket (or appropriate drive) with a ratchet to remove the drain plug.
• Let the fluid drain into the drain pan until it slows to a drip.
• Clean the drain plug area using shop towels and a quick spray of brake cleaner.

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug with a new seal

• Install the new drain plug seal/washer on the plug.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Pump in new MERCON LV fluid

• Insert the hose from the fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty) into the fill/level hole.
• Pump in MERCON LV until fluid begins to trickle back out (initial level).
• Install the fill/level plug finger-tight for now using the ratchet (don’t final-torque yet).
• Tip: Hand pumps are slow—take breaks.

Step 7: Run the car and circulate the fluid

• With the car still safely on jack stands, start the vehicle (READY mode).
• Hold the brake and slowly move the shifter through P-R-N-D, pausing 3 seconds in each position.
• Return to P and let it idle a few minutes.
• Use an infrared thermometer (specialty) to monitor transaxle case/pan temperature near the plug area.
• Target fluid check temperature: about 85–95°C (185–203°F).
• Tip: IR readings vary—shoot the same spot.

Step 8: Set the final fluid level (warm level check)

• With the vehicle idling in P and at temperature, place the drain pan under the fill/level opening.
• Use the ratchet and correct hex bit socket to remove the fill/level plug carefully.
• Correct level is a small steady drip or thin stream that slows to a drip.
• If no fluid comes out, use the fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty) to add fluid until it just starts to run out.
• Reinstall the fill/level plug and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the undertray and lower the car

• Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip removal tool (for clips) and 10mm socket (for bolts).
• Lower the car safely using the floor jack.
• Clean any remaining residue with brake cleaner and shop towels.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the vehicle and check underneath for leaks around the drain and fill/level plugs.
• Take a 10–15 minute drive, then recheck for leaks on a clean, dry surface.
• Note: A drain-and-fill may not replace 100% of the old fluid; doing a second drain-and-fill later can further refresh it.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$360 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.