🔧 ILX - Dual-Clutch Transmission Fluid Drain & Fill

On your ILX with the dual-clutch automatic, a fluid drain-and-fill refreshes the special DCT fluid that lubricates gears and operates the clutch hydraulics. Doing this on schedule helps prevent harsh shifting, shudder, and premature transmission wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: Your ILX uses the 8-speed dual-clutch and a drain/fill/level plug setup; refill amount is typically close to what drains out.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface; support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Transmission fluid can be hot; let the car cool if you just drove it.
• ⚠️ Keep the car level while filling/checking level, or the fluid level will be wrong.
• ⚠️ Do not mix fluids; use only Acura/Honda-approved DCT fluid for this transmission.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for a basic drain-and-fill.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
• Breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2")
• Flat trim clip tool
• Funnel with long hose
• Fluid transfer pump (specialty)
• Clean measuring container (at least 3-quart)
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Dual-clutch transmission fluid (Acura/Honda DCT fluid) - Qty: 3 quarts
• Drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
• Fill plug crush washer - Qty: 1
• Level/check plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Warm the transmission slightly with a short 5–10 minute drive, then let it sit 10 minutes. This helps the fluid drain well without being dangerously hot.
• Raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands. Keep the car as level as possible.
• Remove any lower splash shield that blocks access using a metric socket set and flat trim clip tool.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Locate the plugs

• From under the front of the car, locate the transmission drain plug (bottom of the transmission case) using a flashlight from your shop rags area (wipe grime to identify plugs clearly).
• Locate the fill plug (often on the front/side of the case) and the level/check plug (a smaller bolt on the case side if equipped).
• Pro tip: Always loosen the fill plug first.

Step 2: Loosen the fill plug first

• Place the drain pan under the transmission area (in case of drips).
• Use a ratchet with the correct socket from your metric socket set to crack the fill plug loose.
• If it’s tight, use a breaker bar carefully and keep the socket fully seated to avoid rounding.

Step 3: Drain the old fluid

• Move the drain pan directly under the drain plug.
• Use a ratchet and correct socket to remove the drain plug completely.
• Let it drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 10–15 minutes).

Step 4: Measure what came out

• Carefully pour the drained fluid into a clean measuring container.
• Write down the amount. You will refill the same amount as a baseline.
• Pro tip: Matching the drained amount prevents overfill.

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer

• Clean the drain plug and sealing surface with shop rags.
• Install a new drain plug crush washer on the drain plug.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first, then tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Fill with the correct DCT fluid

• Remove the fill plug fully using a ratchet and socket.
• Install a new fill plug crush washer on the fill plug (you’ll torque it after filling).
• Use a fluid transfer pump (specialty) or funnel with long hose to add dual-clutch transmission fluid.
• Add the same amount you measured in Step 4 (typical drain-and-fill is around 2–3 quarts).

Step 7: Set/check the fluid level (if equipped with a level/check plug)

• With the car still level on jack stands, locate the level/check plug.
• Place the drain pan under the level/check plug.
• Use a ratchet and the correct socket to remove the level/check plug briefly.
• Correct level is typically a small trickle/slow drip from the level port; if no fluid comes out, add small amounts through the fill hole using the fluid transfer pump (specialty), then re-check.
• Install a new level/check plug crush washer and tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall and torque the fill plug

• Thread the fill plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reinstall the lower splash shield using your metric socket set and flat trim clip tool.
• Make sure all clips/bolts are snug so it doesn’t rattle.

Step 10: Lower the car and do a quick function check

• Remove tools from under the car.
• Lower the car using the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then fully lower.
• Start the engine and, with your foot on the brake, slowly move the shifter through all positions (P-R-N-D) pausing 2 seconds each.

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✅ After Repair

• Check underneath for leaks around the drain, fill, and level/check plugs with safety glasses on.
• Take a 10–15 minute test drive. Shifts should feel smooth and consistent.
• Recheck for leaks after the drive and the next morning.
• Dispose of used fluid at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil/fluids.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $160-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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