How to Change CVT Transmission Fluid on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Drain & Refill Guide)
Step-by-step drain, refill, and fluid level check with tools, correct Subaru CVT fluid, temps, and torque specs
How to Change CVT Transmission Fluid on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Drain & Refill Guide)
Step-by-step drain, refill, and fluid level check with tools, correct Subaru CVT fluid, temps, and torque specs


🔧 Forester - CVT Transmission Fluid Drain & Refill
On your Forester (CVT), a fluid change is usually done as a drain-and-refill (not a full machine flush). The key is refilling with the correct Subaru CVT fluid and setting the level at the correct fluid temperature.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
Quick questions (optional, so I tailor the steps): (1) Do you have a CVT fluid dipstick under the hood? (2) Are you doing a simple drain/refill or trying to exchange most of the fluid?
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the SUV with jack stands before getting underneath.
- ⚠️ CVT fluid can be hot. Let it cool if you can’t touch the pan area comfortably.
- ⚠️ Keep the vehicle level while checking/finalizing fluid level, or the level will be wrong.
- ⚠️ Do not mix fluids: use Subaru CVT fluid only (wrong fluid can damage the CVT).
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this service.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart capacity)
- Socket set (8mm-19mm)
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- 8mm hex bit socket
- Fluid transfer pump (specialty)
- Long neck funnel
- OBD-II scan tool that can read CVT fluid temperature (specialty)
- Infrared thermometer (specialty)
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Subaru CVT fluid (CVTF-II equivalent) - Qty: 6-8 quarts
- CVT drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
- CVT fill/inspection plug crush washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a flat surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Warm the CVT fluid with a short 10-minute drive so it drains better.
- Plan how you’ll set the final level: either via dipstick (if equipped) or via the level-check/overflow method.
- Set up your OBD-II scan tool to read CVT fluid temperature (this matters for accurate level checking).
- “Crush washer” = soft sealing washer; replace it.
- “Fluid transfer pump” = hand pump to push fluid in.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and level the vehicle
- Use a floor jack to lift the front, then set the front on jack stands.
- If needed to keep the SUV level, lift the rear with the floor jack and support with jack stands.
- Shake the vehicle gently to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove plastic clips.
- Use your socket set to remove any bolts holding the under-cover.
- Set hardware aside so nothing gets lost.
Step 3: Identify the CVT drain plug and (separately) the fill/level plug
- Place a drain pan under the CVT drain plug.
- Important: Before draining, make sure you can open the fill point (fill plug or dipstick tube). Use an 8mm hex bit socket or appropriate socket to “crack” it loose.
- If you can’t fill it, don’t drain it.
Step 4: Drain the old CVT fluid
- Use a 17mm socket and ratchet to remove the drain plug.
- Let the fluid drain until it slows to a drip (typically 10-20 minutes).
- Inspect the drain plug for metal fuzz; a light paste is normal, chunks are not.
Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer
- Install a new CVT drain plug crush washer on the drain plug by hand.
- Thread the drain plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Refill with the correct CVT fluid
- If filling through a plug: use an 8mm hex bit socket to remove the fill plug, then use a fluid transfer pump to pump in fresh fluid.
- If filling through a dipstick tube: remove the dipstick and use a long neck funnel to add fluid.
- Add back approximately what you drained (most drain-and-refills land around 4-6 quarts).
- Measure what drains; refill that amount first.
Step 7: Start the engine and circulate the fluid
- With the vehicle still level on jack stands, start the engine.
- Hold the brake pedal and slowly shift with the shifter through P-R-N-D and back, pausing 2-3 seconds in each position.
- Keep the engine idling.
Step 8: Set the final fluid level (choose the method you have)
- Method A (if your Forester has a CVT dipstick):
- Use the OBD-II scan tool to confirm fluid temperature is in the warm check range (target 35–45°C (95–113°F)).
- With engine idling, use a shop rag to pull and wipe the dipstick, reinsert fully, then read the level.
- Add small amounts using the funnel until it reaches the correct range.
- Method B (overflow/level-check style, common on CVTs without a usable dipstick):
- Use the OBD-II scan tool to confirm CVT fluid temp is 35–45°C (95–113°F).
- With engine idling, carefully remove the level-check/inspection plug using an 8mm hex bit socket (keep the drain pan under it).
- If fluid barely drips, pump in more CVT fluid using the fluid transfer pump until it becomes a steady thin stream.
- Let it slow to a drip, then reinstall the plug with a new crush washer.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the under-cover using the trim clip remover and socket set.
- Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, and set the SUV back on the ground.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check underneath for leaks with a flashlight (use shop rags to wipe and re-check).
- Take a short 10-minute test drive. Verify smooth takeoff and no shuddering.
- Recheck for leaks and recheck the level again once the CVT is at the same temperature range you used earlier.
- If you have a scan tool, check for stored transmission codes after the drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $170-$270 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















