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2014 Nissan Rogue
2014 Nissan Rogue
SV - Inline 4 2.5L
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CVT transmission fluid change in Nissan Rogue

CVT transmission fluid change in Nissan Rogue

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Change CVT Transmission Fluid on a 2014 Nissan Rogue

Step-by-step DIY CVT drain-and-fill guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

How to Change CVT Transmission Fluid on a 2014 Nissan Rogue

Step-by-step DIY CVT drain-and-fill guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Rogue - CVT Transmission Fluid Drain & Fill

You’ll be doing a drain-and-fill on the CVT (continuously variable transmission), which replaces part of the old fluid with fresh Nissan CVT NS-3 fluid. This helps the CVT run cooler and smoother, and can extend its life.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (careful but doable for a first-timer) | Estimated Time: 1.5–2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Always support the Rogue with jack stands, never only a jack.
  • ⚠️ CVT fluid and the exhaust can get very hot; let the vehicle cool before working under it.
  • ⚠️ Work on level ground. An unlevel vehicle will give the wrong fluid level.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the transmission. Any contamination can damage the CVT.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; CVT fluid is slippery and irritating to skin.
  • ⚠️ Do not “pressure flush” a CVT. Only drain-and-fill is recommended for DIY.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • đź”§ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • đź”§ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 2–4)
  • đź”§ Wheel chocks
  • đź”§ 19mm socket
  • đź”§ 3/8" drive ratchet
  • đź”§ 3/8" drive torque wrench (7–75 ft-lbs range)
  • đź”§ 10mm socket
  • đź”§ Ratchet extension (6")
  • đź”§ Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
  • đź”§ Drain pan (at least 8-liter capacity)
  • đź”§ Measuring container with liter or quart markings
  • đź”§ Long-neck funnel (narrow tip)
  • đź”§ 3/8" clear vinyl hose (about 1 meter long)
  • đź”§ Infrared thermometer
  • đź”§ Shop rags or paper towels
  • đź”§ Nitrile gloves
  • đź”§ Safety glasses
  • đź”§ OBD2 scan tool with CVT fluid temp reading (specialty, optional but recommended)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 🔩 Nissan CVT fluid NS-3 - Qty: 5 quarts (you’ll use ~4–4.5)
  • 🔩 CVT drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
  • 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1 can
  • 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park the Rogue on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the CVT fill area first (so you know you can refill before you drain).
  • If you have a scan tool, get familiar with the menu to read CVT fluid temperature.
  • Plan to do this with the engine and exhaust only slightly warm, not hot.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the Rogue

  • Use the floor jack to lift the front of the Rogue at the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper on the subframe).
  • Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds or frame points, then slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands.
  • Make sure the vehicle is stable by gently shaking it by the body.
  • Always keep at least two jack stands under the vehicle.

Step 2: Remove the front under-cover (splash shield)

  • Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the bolts holding the plastic splash shield under the engine/transmission.
  • Use the flathead screwdriver to gently pry out any plastic clips.
  • Set the shield and hardware aside in order so reassembly is easier.

Step 3: Locate the CVT drain plug and fill area

  • The CVT oil pan is on the driver’s side of the engine bay, between the engine and the driver-side wheel.
  • From underneath, find the drain plug on the bottom of the CVT pan (it looks like a normal plug bolt).
  • From above, remove the air intake snorkel if needed using the 10mm socket to give more room near the CVT.
  • On the upper side of the transmission (driver’s side), locate the CVT fill plug (usually a bolt with a washer on top of the transmission case).
  • Finding the fill point first ensures you can refill after draining.

Step 4: Crack loose the CVT fill plug

  • Use the ratchet with the correct socket (usually 19mm) on the fill plug.
  • Carefully break it loose, but do not remove it fully yet—just confirm it can be opened.
  • Wipe around the area with a rag to keep dirt away.

Step 5: Drain the old CVT fluid

  • Place the drain pan under the CVT drain plug.
  • Use the 19mm socket and ratchet to carefully loosen and remove the drain plug.
  • Let the fluid drain completely; this can take 10–15 minutes.
  • While it drains, clean the drain plug with a rag and inspect it for metal shavings.
  • Once it finishes dripping, pour the fluid from the drain pan into your measuring container and note exactly how much came out.
  • You will refill with the same amount that you drained.

Step 6: Reinstall the drain plug with new washer

  • Install a new crush washer on the drain plug.
  • Thread the drain plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
  • Spray the area with brake cleaner and wipe clean so you can later check for leaks.

Step 7: Add new CVT fluid from the top

  • Now fully remove the CVT fill plug using the ratchet and correct socket.
  • Push one end of the 3/8" clear vinyl hose into the fill opening.
  • Place the other end of the hose into the long-neck funnel.
  • Pour in the same amount of fresh NS-3 CVT fluid that you measured draining out (usually about 4–4.5 quarts), slowly to avoid spilling.
  • Pour slowly; trapped air can cause burping and spills.

Step 8: Reinstall the fill plug (initially)

  • Remove the hose and funnel carefully and wipe the area clean.
  • Reinstall the fill plug by hand.
  • Use the torque wrench and correct socket to tighten the fill plug to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Warm up and circulate the fluid

  • Lower the Rogue back to the ground by using the floor jack and removing the jack stands.
  • Start the engine and keep your foot on the brake.
  • Move the gear selector slowly through all positions: P > R > N > D > L, pausing 3–5 seconds in each, then back to P.
  • Do this cycle 2–3 times to work the fluid through the CVT.
  • If you have a scan tool, monitor CVT fluid temperature and let it reach about 35–45°C (95–113°F).
  • If you do not have a scan tool, let the engine idle for about 10–15 minutes, making sure the fans may cycle once; use the infrared thermometer on the CVT pan and aim for around 35–45°C (warm, but not hot to the touch).

Step 10: Recheck for leaks and reinstall under-cover

  • Turn the engine off.
  • Lift and support the Rogue again using the floor jack and jack stands.
  • Inspect the CVT drain plug and fill area for any fresh fluid leaks.
  • If dry, reinstall the splash shield using the 10mm socket and any clips you removed.

Step 11: Final road check

  • Lower the vehicle back to the ground fully.
  • Take a short, gentle drive (5–10 km) with normal acceleration only.
  • Listen for any unusual noises and feel for shuddering or slipping.
  • After the drive, check under the Rogue for any signs of leaks.

âś… After Repair

  • Check the area under the CVT after the first drive and again the next day for any leaks.
  • If you have a scan tool, verify no new transmission-related fault codes have appeared.
  • For the next few days, drive gently—avoid hard acceleration so the CVT can adapt to the fresh fluid.
  • Consider repeating another drain-and-fill after a short interval (e.g., 5,000–10,000 km) if the original fluid was very dark; this replaces more of the old fluid.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60–$140 (parts only, depending on fluid brand and quantity)

You Save: $190–$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.


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