🔧 Pilot - Automatic Transmission Fluid Change

On your Pilot, changing the transmission fluid helps prevent harsh shifting and premature transmission wear. The exact procedure depends on whether your Pilot has the Honda 6-speed automatic (6AT) or the ZF 9-speed automatic (9AT), because the 9AT uses a temperature-based level check (no dipstick).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the Pilot with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Transmission fluid can be hot; let the drivetrain cool if you just drove it.
• ⚠️ Keep the Pilot level while draining and checking level; fluid level is sensitive to tilt.
• ⚠️ Do not use “universal ATF”; use the correct Honda-specified fluid for your transmission.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel with long flexible hose
• Fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty)
• Metric socket set (8mm–19mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat screwdriver
• Scan tool with transmission fluid temperature PID (specialty)
• Infrared thermometer

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Automatic transmission fluid (Honda-spec, correct type for your transmission) - Qty: 4–8 quarts
• Transmission drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
• Transmission fill plug crush washer - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1
• Shop towels - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Pilot on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Do a short 10–15 minute drive to warm the fluid slightly, then shut it off and let it sit 10 minutes.
• Confirm which transmission you have:
  • 9AT: No transmission dipstick; typically uses push-button shifter. Level is checked using a plug and fluid temperature.
  • 6AT: Has a transmission dipstick (yellow handle) and a simpler refill.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and level the Pilot

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set it down securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Make sure the Pilot sits as level as possible front-to-rear. Level matters for fluid level.

Step 2: Remove the underbody cover (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flat screwdriver to remove plastic clips.
• Use a metric socket set (8mm–12mm) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any bolts.

Step 3: Identify the drain and fill points

• Place a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the transmission drain plug.
• Before draining, confirm you can loosen the fill point first:
  • 9AT: fill plug/port is on the transmission case; level check is through a separate check/overflow plug.
  • 6AT: refill is typically through the dipstick tube using a funnel with long flexible hose.

Step 4: Drain the old fluid

• Use the correct size from your metric socket set (8mm–19mm) with a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the drain plug.
• Let it drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 10–20 minutes).
• Clean the drain plug with shop towels and brake cleaner spray.
• Install a new transmission drain plug crush washer.
• Reinstall the drain plug and tighten with a torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs).
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Refill (choose your transmission path)

• Path A — 6AT refill (dipstick tube)
  • Insert a funnel with long flexible hose into the transmission dipstick tube.
  • Add the same amount you drained (a drain-and-fill is commonly around 3.5–4.5 quarts).
  • Reinstall the dipstick fully.
• Path B — 9AT refill (fill port + level check)
  • Remove the transmission fill plug using the appropriate size from your metric socket set (8mm–19mm) and a 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Install a new transmission fill plug crush washer (if your plug uses one).
  • Use a fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty) to pump the correct ATF into the fill port until fluid begins to approach the level check condition (you’ll finalize level in Step 7).
  • Reinstall the fill plug snug for now (final check comes later).

Step 6: Run through gears

• Start the engine with your foot on the brake.
• Cycle through P-R-N-D and back, pausing 2–3 seconds in each position.
• Let it idle 2–3 minutes.

Step 7: Set the final level

• 6AT final check (dipstick)
  • With the engine warmed and idling, pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert, then pull again to read.
  • Add small amounts using the funnel with long flexible hose until it’s in the correct range.
• 9AT final check (temperature-based)
  • Connect a scan tool with transmission fluid temperature PID (specialty) and monitor ATF temperature.
  • If you do not have a scan tool, use an infrared thermometer on the transmission pan as a rough estimate. Scan tool is strongly preferred.
  • With the engine idling and the Pilot level, remove the level/check plug using your metric socket set (8mm–19mm) and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Add fluid with the fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty) until a thin steady stream dribbles from the check opening at the correct temperature window.
  • Install the check plug and tighten with a torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall covers and clean up

• Reinstall the underbody cover using the trim clip removal tool, flat screwdriver, and metric socket set (8mm–12mm) with a 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lower the Pilot using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Wipe any spilled fluid with shop towels and brake cleaner spray.

---

✅ After Repair

• Test drive 10–15 minutes and verify shifts feel normal.
• Check for leaks under the Pilot (drain plug area and any fill/check plugs).
• Recheck the level:
  • 6AT: recheck dipstick level on level ground.
  • 9AT: recheck using the same temperature-based process if shifting feels off or you see leaks.
• Dispose of used ATF properly (most parts stores accept waste fluid).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $55-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $165-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.