🔧 BRZ - Accessory Drive Belt Replacement

Your BRZ does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain inside the engine, and it’s not a normal maintenance replacement item.

If you meant the belt you can actually see and service, that’s the accessory drive belt (it runs the alternator and A/C). This guide covers replacing that belt.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5–1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a completely cool engine to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands if you lift the front—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/clothes clear of the belt path and pulleys.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this belt replacement, but keep the key out of the car so nobody cranks it.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• Flat trim clip tool
• 14mm socket
• Breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2")
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) - Qty: 1
• Engine under cover clips - Qty: 2–6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and use a flashlight to locate the belt routing area at the front of the engine.
• If access is tight, lift the front using a floor jack and support with jack stands at the factory front jack points.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine under cover (if equipped)

• Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front, then set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Use the 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the under cover bolts.
• Use the flat trim clip tool to pop out any plastic clips without breaking them.

Step 2: Relieve belt tension

• Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a pulley).
• Use the 14mm socket and a breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and relieve tension. Move slowly; it’s spring-loaded.
• While holding the tensioner released, slip the belt off one easy pulley (usually the smooth idler/tensioner pulley).

Step 3: Remove the old belt

• Release the tensioner carefully using the breaker bar.
• Pull the belt out of the engine bay from the top, or down through the bottom if that’s easier.
• Use the flashlight to inspect pulleys for wobble or roughness by spinning them by hand (engine off).

Step 4: Route the new belt

• Compare the new belt to the old one (same length and rib count).
• Route the belt around the pulleys, leaving one pulley for last so it’s easy to slip on.
• Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in the grooved pulleys (no ribs hanging off the edge). Misalignment shreds belts fast.

Step 5: Re-apply tension and final check

• Use the 14mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Use the flashlight to double-check the belt is centered on every pulley.

Step 6: Reinstall the under cover

• Reinstall the under cover using the 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and any clips you removed with the flat trim clip tool.
• Remove the jack stands and lower the car with the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds while you watch the belt.
• Listen for chirping/squealing; shut it off immediately if the belt walks off a pulley.
• Take a short drive, then re-check belt alignment with a flashlight.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150–$300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25–$60 (parts only)

You Save: $125–$240 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.