🔧 BRZ - Electric Power Steering (No Pump) - Troubleshooting & Correct Repair Path

Your BRZ does not use a hydraulic power steering pump. It uses Electric Power Steering (EPS), where an electric motor on the steering rack provides assist.

So there’s no pump to replace—fixing “power steering” issues on your BRZ usually means checking power/grounds, fuses, EPS trouble codes, wiring, or replacing the EPS steering rack/motor assembly if it has failed.

Difficulty Level: Beginner (checks) / Advanced (rack replacement) | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours (checks) / 4-8 hours (rack)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key before touching EPS connectors.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging EPS components.
• ⚠️ If you lift the car, support it with jack stands on proper lift points.
• ⚠️ If the steering wheel/airbag wiring is disturbed, keep the front wheels straight and avoid rotating the steering wheel with parts disconnected.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flashlight
• Digital multimeter
• OBD2 scan tool capable of ABS/EPS codes (specialty)
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• EPS steering gear assembly (steering rack with EPS motor) - Qty: 1
• EPS/Power steering related fuses (as needed) - Qty: 1
• 12V battery (as needed) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Center the steering wheel and keep the front wheels pointed straight.
• Have your radio presets handy if you like (battery disconnect may reset memory).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the symptom (so you don’t chase the wrong part)

• Turn the key to ON (engine can be OFF) and look for a steering wheel warning light on the dash.
• If the steering is only heavy at parking-lot speeds, that strongly points to an EPS assist issue (not a pump).
• Write down exactly when it happens.

Step 2: Check battery connections and voltage (EPS is sensitive)

• Open the hood and inspect the battery terminals for looseness/corrosion.
• Use a 10mm socket to snug the terminal nuts if needed; do not overtighten. Torque to 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lbs)
• Use a digital multimeter across the battery posts:
  • Engine OFF: roughly ~12.4–12.7V is healthy.
  • Engine RUNNING: roughly ~13.5–14.7V is typical charging.
• If voltage is low, charge/test the battery before replacing any EPS parts.

Step 3: Check EPS-related fuses

• Turn ignition OFF.
• Use a trim clip removal tool (or your fingers carefully) to open the fuse access panels (interior/engine bay as equipped).
• Use a flashlight to identify any fuse labeled for steering/EPS and inspect it.
• If a fuse is blown, replace it with the same amperage rating (never “bigger”).
• If it blows again, stop—there’s likely a short or failing EPS component.

Step 4: Scan for EPS/ABS trouble codes (this is the fastest path)

• Plug in an OBD2 scan tool capable of ABS/EPS codes (specialty) to the diagnostic port under the dash.
• Turn ignition ON and read codes from:
  • EPS / Power Steering
  • ABS/VDC (because some steering assist logic shares data)
• Write down the exact code numbers and their descriptions.
• Clear codes only after you’ve recorded them.

Step 5: Quick EPS connector and harness check (no disassembly-heavy steps)

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Use a flashlight to look for damaged wiring/connectors around the steering rack area (under the front of the car).
• If you need to lift the car: use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum), support with jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum), and use wheel chocks.
• Do not pull on wires—only inspect and gently confirm connectors are fully seated.

Step 6: Decide the correct “replacement” (since there is no pump)

• If you have EPS codes pointing to the motor/torque sensor/gear assembly, the typical fix is replacing the EPS steering gear assembly (steering rack with motor).
• If you have low voltage/charging issues, fix the battery/charging system first—EPS problems often disappear.
• If you have clunking, torn boots, or play, that points more to a steering rack/mechanical issue.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery terminal using a 10mm socket. Torque to 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lbs)
• Start the engine and confirm the steering assist returns and the warning light stays off.
• If you replaced any steering components, get a 4-wheel alignment immediately.
• If codes return after clearing, don’t keep driving—scan again and address the root cause.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$400 (diagnosis/inspection) / $1,500-$3,000 (rack replacement parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $0-$50 (basic checks) / $900-$2,200 (rack typically, parts only)

You Save: $150-$800+ by doing the checks yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours (checks) or 4-8 hours (rack).

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Quick questions (so I can point you to the exact fix):

• 🧭 Is your steering heavy all the time, or mainly at low speeds/parking?
• 📟 Is the steering wheel warning light on, and do you have any stored codes from a scan?