2018 Dodge Challenger Power Steering Pump Replacement? EPS vs Hydraulic Troubleshooting Guide
How to confirm if your Challenger has EPS (no pump) or hydraulic steering, plus tools, parts, and next-step repairs
2018 Dodge Challenger Power Steering Pump Replacement? EPS vs Hydraulic Troubleshooting Guide
How to confirm if your Challenger has EPS (no pump) or hydraulic steering, plus tools, parts, and next-step repairs


🔧 Challenger - Power Steering “Pump” Replacement
On your Challenger, power steering is typically Electric Power Steering (EPS), which means there is no belt-driven power steering pump or power steering fluid to replace like older hydraulic systems.
First we’ll confirm what system you have (2 quick checks). Then you’ll follow the correct repair path: EPS rack/motor service (most common) or hydraulic pump replacement (only if your car was converted or has an uncommon setup).
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (EPS rack) / 2-4 hours (hydraulic pump)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack alone.
- 🧤 Keep hands/clothes away from the belt drive area if the engine is running.
- ⚡ If equipped with EPS (most common), disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging steering electronics.
- 🧯 If any fluid is present, clean spills immediately—fluids can be slippery and flammable.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Flashlight
- Trim clip remover
- Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
- Socket set (8mm–21mm)
- Wrench set (8mm–21mm)
- Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs)
- Torx bit set
- Line wrench set (flare nut)
- Drain pan
- Funnel
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- OBD2 scan tool capable of EPS codes (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Electric power steering rack assembly - Qty: 1
- Steering rack mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod ends - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
- Steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt - Qty: 1
- Power steering pump - Qty: 1 Only if hydraulic-equipped
- Power steering fluid - Qty: 2-3 quarts Only if hydraulic-equipped
- Power steering return/pressure hose seals - Qty: 1 set Only if hydraulic-equipped
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, steering wheel centered, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket if you’ll be unplugging any steering electrical connectors.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm whether you have EPS (no pump) or hydraulic (has pump)
- Use a flashlight and look at the front of the engine for a belt-driven pump with two hoses attached.
- Look for a power steering fluid reservoir (a plastic tank with a cap labeled for power steering fluid).
- If you do not see a reservoir/hoses/pump, you have EPS and the correct repair is usually the EPS rack/motor, not a pump.
Step 2: Answer these 2 quick questions before you buy parts
- Do you have a power steering fluid reservoir you can point to under the hood (yes/no)?
- Do you see a belt-driven pump with hoses on the engine (yes/no)?
Step 3: If you confirmed EPS (most common) — plan the correct repair
- Use an OBD2 scan tool capable of EPS codes (specialty) to read codes from the steering system.
- If you have heavy steering, warning lights, or EPS-related codes, the repair is typically EPS rack replacement and then a professional alignment.
- Because EPS rack procedures and torque specs vary by sub-configuration, I’ll provide the exact removal/installation steps once you answer the 2 questions above (so I don’t give you the wrong procedure).
Step 4: If you confirmed hydraulic (uncommon) — do not start until confirmed
- Hydraulic pump replacement requires the correct fluid type, hose sealing method, and bleeding steps.
- I’ll provide the exact pump replacement + bleed procedure once you confirm you truly have a reservoir and belt-driven pump (the 2 questions above).
âś… After Repair
- If EPS work is performed: clear codes with an EPS-capable scan tool and verify steering assist is normal.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment any time the rack or tie rods are removed.
- Do a careful test drive: low speed turns first, then highway check for pull or off-center wheel.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (EPS rack) / $500-$1,200 (hydraulic pump)
DIY Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts only, depends on path)
You Save: $300-$1,000+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
Reply with the answers to these two checks: (1) reservoir present yes/no, (2) belt-driven pump with hoses yes/no. HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















