🔧 Murano - Timing Belt Replacement

Important: your Murano does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and usually isn’t replaced on a schedule.

If you’re having chain-related symptoms (rattle on cold start, cam/crank correlation codes, poor running), the repair is a timing chain set replacement, which is a major engine front-cover job.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-14 hours

Assumption: You meant “timing chain,” since there is no belt.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or working near the radiator.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands before going under it—never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ You will remove an engine mount—support the engine with an engine support bar (a top brace that holds the engine safely).
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm wrench to prevent accidental cranking.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/tools clear of the belt/pulley area when rotating the engine by hand.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque angle gauge (specialty)
• Metric combination wrench set (8mm-19mm)
• Hex key set (metric)
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Flat trim tool
• Pliers
• Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
• Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Camshaft locking tool set (specialty)
• Gasket scraper (plastic)
• Shop towels
• Brake cleaner spray
• Marker paint pen

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit (primary chain, guides, tensioners) - Qty: 1
• Secondary timing chains (if equipped in kit) - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• RTV silicone sealant (engine front cover/oil safe) - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (Nissan-compatible blue, pre-mix or concentrate) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
• Accessory mounting hardware (one-time-use bolts if required) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands.
• Plan for fluid handling: you’ll drain engine oil and coolant into a drain pan.
• Take photos before removing brackets and hoses.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove upper engine covers and intake ducting

• Remove plastic engine cover(s) by pulling upward firmly by hand.
• Loosen intake hose clamps using a flat screwdriver or 8mm socket, then remove the air duct.
• Unclip any harness retainers with a flat trim tool.

Step 2: Remove the right-front wheel and splash shield

• Loosen lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar, then remove the wheel.
• Remove the fender liner/splash shield fasteners using a Phillips #2 screwdriver and trim tool.

Step 3: Drain coolant and engine oil

• Place a drain pan under the radiator drain and open it with pliers if needed.
• Drain engine oil using the correct drain plug socket from your metric socket set.
• Remove the oil filter with a filter wrench (from a puller kit if included) or by hand if accessible.

Step 4: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount

• Install the engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and tension it to hold the engine weight.
• Remove mount nuts/bolts using a metric socket set and ratchet.
• Do not lift the engine—just support it.

Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt and front accessories (as needed)

• Rotate the belt tensioner using the correct socket from your metric socket set, then slip off the belt.
• Remove accessory brackets/fasteners blocking the front cover using a metric socket set.
• Bag and label bolts by location using shop towels and a marker paint pen.

Step 6: Remove the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer)

• Hold the crank pulley with a crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Remove the crank bolt using a 1/2" breaker bar and the correct socket from your metric socket set.
• Use a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) to pull the pulley off straight.
• Torque: Reinstall crank bolt to factory specification using a torque wrench and torque angle gauge.

Step 7: Remove the front timing cover

• Remove all front cover bolts using a metric socket set and ratchet.
• Carefully break the seal and remove the cover; use a plastic gasket scraper—do not gouge aluminum surfaces.
• Clean mating surfaces using brake cleaner and shop towels.

Step 8: Set the engine to TDC and lock the cams

• Rotate the engine by hand at the crank using a breaker bar until timing marks align at TDC (Top Dead Center—piston at the top of its stroke).
• Install the camshaft locking tool set (specialty) to prevent cam movement.
• Never rotate cams independently with chain off.

Step 9: Remove timing chain tensioners, guides, and chains

• Remove tensioner and guide bolts using a metric socket set.
• Relieve and remove the tensioners, then remove the chain(s).
• Keep parts organized; left/right guides can differ.
• Torque: Reinstall tensioner/guide bolts to factory specification with a torque wrench.

Step 10: Install the new timing chains and align timing marks

• Install new chains with colored links aligned to the sprocket timing marks.
• Install new guides and tensioners using a metric socket set.
• Pull the tensioner pins (if present) to apply tension.
• Rotate the engine by hand two full turns using a breaker bar, then re-check timing mark alignment.

Step 11: Reinstall the front cover with RTV and a new crank seal

• Install a new crank seal using a seal driver from the harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) or an appropriately sized driver.
• Apply RTV silicone sealant as required at joints, then install the cover.
• Tighten bolts evenly using a torque wrench.
• Torque: Front cover bolts to factory specification using a torque wrench.

Step 12: Reassemble accessories, mount, belt, wheel, and refill fluids

• Reinstall the crank pulley and crank bolt using the crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty) and torque wrench.
• Reinstall accessory brackets using a metric socket set and torque wrench.
• Reinstall the right engine mount using a metric socket set and torque wrench.
• Install the new serpentine belt by rotating the tensioner with a ratchet.
• Reinstall splash shield with a Phillips #2 screwdriver and wheel with a 19mm socket.
• Refill engine oil and coolant using a funnel.
• Torque: Wheel lug nuts to factory specification using a torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Start the engine and let it idle; listen for abnormal rattles.
• Check for oil/coolant leaks around the front cover and crank seal area.
• Top off coolant after the thermostat opens and the radiator fans cycle.
• If the check engine light is on, scan and clear codes after verifying the repair.
• Recheck fluid levels after your first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $1,450-$2,600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-14 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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