2016 Nissan Murano Power Steering Fix: EPS Rack Replacement Guide (No Pump or Fluid)
Step-by-step EPS diagnosis and steering rack install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and calibration/alignment notes
2016 Nissan Murano Power Steering Fix: EPS Rack Replacement Guide (No Pump or Fluid)
Step-by-step EPS diagnosis and steering rack install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and calibration/alignment notes


š§ Murano - Power Steering āPumpā Replacement (EPS System: No Hydraulic Pump)
Your Murano uses Electric Power Steering (EPS), so it does not have a belt-driven hydraulic power steering pump or power steering fluid. If youāre having heavy steering, noise, or warning lights, the fix is usually in the EPS fuse/grounds, wiring/connectors, battery/charging, or the EPS steering rack (steering gear) assembly.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours
Assumption: You meant the EPS steering rack (power assist unit).
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Disconnect the battery before steering/airbag-area work to reduce accidental airbag deployment risk.
- ā ļø Keep the front wheels pointed straight and do not rotate the steering wheel with the steering shaft disconnected (can damage the clock spring, the ribbon cable behind the steering wheel).
- ā ļø Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid, level groundānever rely on a floor jack alone.
- ā ļø You will need a professional alignment after rack removal/installation.
- ā ļø Some EPS functions may require a scan tool for codes and calibration.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8"
- Torque wrench 1/2"
- Socket set 8mm-21mm
- Wrench set 10mm-21mm
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pry bar 12"
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Drain pan 2-gallon
- Shop light
- OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty)
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- EPS steering rack assembly (electric steering gear) - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod ends - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
- Rack mounting hardware (bolt/nut kit) - Qty: 1 If required by kit instructions
- Steering shaft pinch bolt - Qty: 1 If required by kit instructions
- Subframe fasteners (as-needed) - Qty: 1 Only if specified as one-time-use
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, straighten the front wheels, and set the parking brake.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait at least 3 minutes.
- Use a paint marker to mark the steering shaft and coupler relationship before separating anything.
- Plan for an alignment right after the repairādonāt skip this.
- Have your OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty) ready for EPS codes and steering angle calibration if needed.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Verify itās EPS (no pump to replace)
- Open the hood and look for a power steering fluid reservoirāyour Muranoās EPS system typically has no reservoir and no drive belt pump.
- If you see a warning like āPSā/steering wheel light, use an OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty) to check EPS trouble codes.
- Low battery voltage can trigger heavy steering.
Step 2: Raise and secure the front end
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove both front wheels using a socket set 19mm-21mm (size varies by lug nuts).
Step 3: Remove undercovers/splash shields (as equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool and socket set 8mm-12mm to remove the lower engine cover and any splash shields blocking the rack.
- Keep clips and bolts grouped so they go back to the same locations.
Step 4: Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles
- Use a socket set to remove the tie rod end nuts.
- Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
- Count and record the number of turns when removing each outer tie rod end (helps get you close for alignment).
Step 5: Separate the steering shaft coupler from the rack input
- Inside the cabin/footwell area (or at the firewall area, depending on access), locate the steering intermediate shaft coupler.
- Use a paint marker to mark the shaft-to-coupler position.
- Use a socket set to remove the pinch bolt, then slide the coupler off.
- Important: Do not spin the steering wheel while disconnected.
- Torque to OEM specification when reinstalling the pinch bolt.
Step 6: Disconnect EPS electrical connectors
- At the rack, unplug the EPS electrical connectors by releasing the locks using a Phillips screwdriver #2 only if needed to gently assist (do not pry hard).
- Inspect for corrosion, water intrusion, or bent pins.
Step 7: Support the subframe/engine if required for clearance
- Some rack removals require slight subframe lowering for clearance.
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with a broad pad to support the subframe area before loosening any subframe bolts.
- Lower only what you must for clearance.
Step 8: Remove rack mounting bolts and remove the rack
- Use a breaker bar 1/2" and socket set to remove the rack mounting bolts.
- Use a pry bar 12" gently if the rack is stuck in its mounts.
- Work the rack out through the opening (usually toward the driver side), watching wiring and boots.
- Torque to OEM specification for rack mounting fasteners during installation.
Step 9: Transfer parts to the new rack (if required)
- If your replacement rack does not include outer tie rod ends, install new ones using a wrench set.
- Match the length side-to-side as close as possible (use your turn-count notes).
Step 10: Install the new rack
- Position the new rack into place and start mounting bolts by hand.
- Use a torque wrench 1/2" to tighten rack mounting bolts: Torque to OEM specification.
- Reconnect EPS electrical connectors and ensure locks click into place.
Step 11: Reconnect steering shaft coupler
- Align your paint marks and slide the coupler back onto the rack input.
- Install the pinch bolt using a socket set.
- Use a torque wrench 3/8": Torque to OEM specification.
Step 12: Reinstall tie rod ends and undercovers
- Install tie rod ends into the knuckles and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.
- Reinstall undercovers using a trim clip removal tool and socket set.
- Reinstall wheels using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to OEM specification.
ā After Repair
- Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.
- Turn the key ON (engine OFF) and confirm no EPS warnings. Then start the engine and confirm steering assist feels normal.
- Use an OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty) to clear EPS codes and perform any required steering angle/neutral position calibration (some vehicles require this after rack replacement).
- Get a professional 4-wheel alignment immediately.
- Road test at low speed first, then recheck for warning lights.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $650-$1,800 (parts only)
You Save: $750-$1,000+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















