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2016 Nissan Murano
2016 Nissan Murano
S - V6 3.5L
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Tech Tip for replacing a Rack and Pinion

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2016 Nissan Murano Power Steering Fix: EPS Rack Replacement Guide (No Pump or Fluid)

Step-by-step EPS diagnosis and steering rack install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and calibration/alignment notes

2016 Nissan Murano Power Steering Fix: EPS Rack Replacement Guide (No Pump or Fluid)

Step-by-step EPS diagnosis and steering rack install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and calibration/alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ Murano - Power Steering ā€œPumpā€ Replacement (EPS System: No Hydraulic Pump)

Your Murano uses Electric Power Steering (EPS), so it does not have a belt-driven hydraulic power steering pump or power steering fluid. If you’re having heavy steering, noise, or warning lights, the fix is usually in the EPS fuse/grounds, wiring/connectors, battery/charging, or the EPS steering rack (steering gear) assembly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: You meant the EPS steering rack (power assist unit).


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Disconnect the battery before steering/airbag-area work to reduce accidental airbag deployment risk.
  • āš ļø Keep the front wheels pointed straight and do not rotate the steering wheel with the steering shaft disconnected (can damage the clock spring, the ribbon cable behind the steering wheel).
  • āš ļø Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • āš ļø You will need a professional alignment after rack removal/installation.
  • āš ļø Some EPS functions may require a scan tool for codes and calibration.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 3/8"
  • Torque wrench 1/2"
  • Socket set 8mm-21mm
  • Wrench set 10mm-21mm
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Pry bar 12"
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Paint marker
  • Drain pan 2-gallon
  • Shop light
  • OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty)

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • EPS steering rack assembly (electric steering gear) - Qty: 1
  • Outer tie rod ends - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
  • Rack mounting hardware (bolt/nut kit) - Qty: 1 If required by kit instructions
  • Steering shaft pinch bolt - Qty: 1 If required by kit instructions
  • Subframe fasteners (as-needed) - Qty: 1 Only if specified as one-time-use

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, straighten the front wheels, and set the parking brake.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait at least 3 minutes.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the steering shaft and coupler relationship before separating anything.
  • Plan for an alignment right after the repair—don’t skip this.
  • Have your OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty) ready for EPS codes and steering angle calibration if needed.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Verify it’s EPS (no pump to replace)

  • Open the hood and look for a power steering fluid reservoir—your Murano’s EPS system typically has no reservoir and no drive belt pump.
  • If you see a warning like ā€œPSā€/steering wheel light, use an OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty) to check EPS trouble codes.
  • Low battery voltage can trigger heavy steering.

Step 2: Raise and secure the front end

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove both front wheels using a socket set 19mm-21mm (size varies by lug nuts).

Step 3: Remove undercovers/splash shields (as equipped)

  • Use a trim clip removal tool and socket set 8mm-12mm to remove the lower engine cover and any splash shields blocking the rack.
  • Keep clips and bolts grouped so they go back to the same locations.

Step 4: Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles

  • Use a socket set to remove the tie rod end nuts.
  • Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
  • Count and record the number of turns when removing each outer tie rod end (helps get you close for alignment).

Step 5: Separate the steering shaft coupler from the rack input

  • Inside the cabin/footwell area (or at the firewall area, depending on access), locate the steering intermediate shaft coupler.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the shaft-to-coupler position.
  • Use a socket set to remove the pinch bolt, then slide the coupler off.
  • Important: Do not spin the steering wheel while disconnected.
  • Torque to OEM specification when reinstalling the pinch bolt.

Step 6: Disconnect EPS electrical connectors

  • At the rack, unplug the EPS electrical connectors by releasing the locks using a Phillips screwdriver #2 only if needed to gently assist (do not pry hard).
  • Inspect for corrosion, water intrusion, or bent pins.

Step 7: Support the subframe/engine if required for clearance

  • Some rack removals require slight subframe lowering for clearance.
  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with a broad pad to support the subframe area before loosening any subframe bolts.
  • Lower only what you must for clearance.

Step 8: Remove rack mounting bolts and remove the rack

  • Use a breaker bar 1/2" and socket set to remove the rack mounting bolts.
  • Use a pry bar 12" gently if the rack is stuck in its mounts.
  • Work the rack out through the opening (usually toward the driver side), watching wiring and boots.
  • Torque to OEM specification for rack mounting fasteners during installation.

Step 9: Transfer parts to the new rack (if required)

  • If your replacement rack does not include outer tie rod ends, install new ones using a wrench set.
  • Match the length side-to-side as close as possible (use your turn-count notes).

Step 10: Install the new rack

  • Position the new rack into place and start mounting bolts by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench 1/2" to tighten rack mounting bolts: Torque to OEM specification.
  • Reconnect EPS electrical connectors and ensure locks click into place.

Step 11: Reconnect steering shaft coupler

  • Align your paint marks and slide the coupler back onto the rack input.
  • Install the pinch bolt using a socket set.
  • Use a torque wrench 3/8": Torque to OEM specification.

Step 12: Reinstall tie rod ends and undercovers

  • Install tie rod ends into the knuckles and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.
  • Reinstall undercovers using a trim clip removal tool and socket set.
  • Reinstall wheels using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to OEM specification.

āœ… After Repair

  • Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.
  • Turn the key ON (engine OFF) and confirm no EPS warnings. Then start the engine and confirm steering assist feels normal.
  • Use an OBD2 scan tool with EPS capability (specialty) to clear EPS codes and perform any required steering angle/neutral position calibration (some vehicles require this after rack replacement).
  • Get a professional 4-wheel alignment immediately.
  • Road test at low speed first, then recheck for warning lights.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $650-$1,800 (parts only)

You Save: $750-$1,000+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.


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