🔧 RX350 - Power Steering System Repair (Electric Assist)

Your RX350 uses Electric Power Steering (EPS), so it does not have a hydraulic power steering pump to replace (no pump, no PS fluid reservoir/hoses). If you’re having heavy steering, whining, or warning lights, the common service items are the EPS steering rack (steering gear), related wiring/connectors, or charging/battery issues.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

Assumption: You meant the EPS steering rack (electric assist) replacement.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery before working near EPS wiring to prevent accidental motor operation.
• ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered and do not rotate it with the rack disconnected; you can damage the spiral cable (clock spring).
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle securely on jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ If the front subframe is loosened/lowered, support the drivetrain as required and work slowly.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after rack removal.
• ⚠️ You may need EPS/steering angle calibration with a scan tool after the repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb range)
• Torque wrench (in-lb range)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm wrench
• 24mm wrench
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket extension set
• Pry bar
• Paint marker
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Inner tie rod tool (specialty)
• Steering wheel holder/seat belt strap
• Scan tool with Toyota/Lexus EPS functions (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• EPS steering rack (steering gear assembly) - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod ends - Qty: 2
• Rack boot set - Qty: 1
• Steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt/nut kit - Qty: 1
• Subframe bolts (single-use if required) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and lock it in place using a steering wheel holder/seat belt strap.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front and support it on jack stands; remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Remove lower engine/underbody covers using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• Tip: Mark parts before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Mark the steering intermediate shaft position

• At the firewall area, locate the steering intermediate shaft connection to the rack input.
• Use a paint marker to mark the shaft and joint so you reinstall in the same orientation.
• Remove the pinch bolt using a 12mm socket or 12mm wrench (fastener style varies).
• Torque: Reinstall to factory specification using a torque wrench.

Step 2: Disconnect EPS electrical connectors

• Locate the EPS connectors on the rack/motor area.
• Release connector locks using needle-nose pliers or a trim clip removal tool as needed.
• Unplug connectors and route wiring safely away from the rack.

Step 3: Remove outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles

• Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (varies).
• Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle using a ball joint separator (specialty).
• Tip: Count tie-rod turns for alignment.

Step 4: Create working clearance (subframe/crossmember clearance as needed)

• Support the front subframe area with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and a block of wood.
• Loosen/remove required bracing/crossmember fasteners using a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, and 19mm socket.
• If the procedure requires lowering the subframe slightly, lower the jack slowly and watch for stretching wiring, hoses, and exhaust flex joints.
• Torque: Reinstall subframe/crossmember fasteners to factory specification using a torque wrench.

Step 5: Unbolt the rack from the subframe

• Remove rack mounting bolts using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (varies by mount).
• Keep track of any spacers/brackets and their orientation.
• Torque: Reinstall rack mounting bolts to factory specification using a torque wrench.

Step 6: Remove the steering rack

• Slide the rack out carefully (usually out one side) while guiding wiring and avoiding damage to boots.
• Use a pry bar only gently if needed; do not pry on aluminum housings.

Step 7: Transfer/replace tie rods and boots (if not included)

• If the new rack does not come with inner tie rods, remove inner tie rods using an inner tie rod tool (specialty).
• Install new rack boots and clamps.
• Torque: Tighten inner tie rods to factory specification using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Install the new rack and reconnect the intermediate shaft

• Position the new rack into place and start mounting bolts by hand.
• Reconnect the steering intermediate shaft, aligning your paint marker marks.
• Install a new pinch bolt if supplied and tighten with a 12mm socket.
• Torque: Tighten pinch bolt to factory specification using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Reconnect EPS connectors and reinstall bracing/covers

• Reconnect all EPS electrical connectors until locks click into place.
• Reinstall any removed bracing/crossmembers using 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm sockets.
• Reinstall underbody covers using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.

Step 10: Reinstall tie rod ends and wheels

• Install outer tie rod ends (or reinstall original if reusing) and seat the stud into the knuckle.
• Tighten the tie rod end nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket, then install a new cotter pin if equipped.
• Torque: Tighten tie rod end nut to factory specification using a torque wrench.
• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Torque: Tighten lug nuts to factory specification using a torque wrench.

Step 11: Restore power and perform EPS calibration checks

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Turn the ignition ON and check for EPS/steering warning lights.
• Use a scan tool with Toyota/Lexus EPS functions (specialty) to clear codes and perform steering angle/zero-point calibration if required.
• Tip: If lights remain, don’t force driving.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the steering assist feels normal at idle.
• With the vehicle still raised, gently turn lock-to-lock and listen for rubbing/clicking.
• Road test at low speed first, then normal speed.
• Get a professional wheel alignment immediately.
• If EPS codes return, recheck connectors, battery voltage, and calibration with the scan tool.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,500 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $700-$2,200 (parts only)

You Save: $1,100-$1,300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-10 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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