🔧 Sportage - Electric Power Steering Unit Replacement (No Pump)

Your Sportage uses an electric power steering system (MDPS/EPS), so it does not have a belt-driven hydraulic power steering pump to replace. If you’re having heavy steering, warnings, or noises, the usual “pump replacement” equivalent is replacing the EPS/MDPS steering column (or EPS motor/torque sensor, depending on what failed).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Airbag/SRS risk: You will be working near the driver airbag and clock spring. Disconnect the battery and wait before touching SRS connectors.
• ⚠️ Steering angle/clock spring: Keep the front wheels straight and do not rotate the clock spring with the steering wheel removed.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect required: Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait at least 3 minutes before airbag work.
• ⚠️ Calibration required: EPS/SAS (steering angle sensor) calibration may be required after installation.
• ⚠️ Support the steering column during removal so it doesn’t drop and damage wiring.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim removal tool
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Torx bit set
• Steering wheel puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Scan tool with EPS + SAS calibration (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Electric power steering column/MDPS assembly - Qty: 1
• Steering column intermediate shaft pinch bolt - Qty: 1
• Steering wheel retaining nut - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground with the front wheels pointing straight.
• Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key/fob from the vehicle.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket, then wait at least 3 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark steering wheel-to-shaft alignment before removal. This helps keep the wheel centered.
• Assumption: You’re replacing the full EPS/MDPS column assembly (common repair path on this system).

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower dash panels

• Use a flat trim removal tool to gently pop off the driver-side lower trim panels.
• Remove any screws with a Phillips screwdriver #2 or the appropriate Torx bit.
• Set all fasteners aside in a small tray. Keep screws grouped by panel.

Step 2: Remove the driver airbag module

• From the sides/rear of the steering wheel, remove the airbag retaining fasteners using the correct Torx bit.
• Carefully pull the airbag outward just enough to access connectors.
• Disconnect the airbag connector(s) by lifting the lock tab first (if equipped), then unplug.
• Place the airbag face-up on a flat surface, away from your work area.

Step 3: Remove the steering wheel

• Mark the steering wheel and shaft relationship using a paint marker.
• Remove the steering wheel retaining nut using a 19mm socket.
• Install a steering wheel puller (specialty) and remove the steering wheel straight off.
• Do not rotate the clock spring once the wheel is off. The clock spring is a ribbon cable spool that keeps electrical connections while turning.

Step 4: Remove steering column covers and connectors

• Remove upper/lower column shrouds using a Phillips screwdriver #2 and/or Torx bit.
• Unplug EPS/column electrical connectors by depressing the tabs and pulling straight out.
• Unclip wiring retainers carefully using a flat trim removal tool.

Step 5: Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft

• Locate the intermediate shaft joint at the base of the steering column.
• Use a paint marker to mark the shaft and joint alignment.
• Remove the pinch bolt using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket (varies by fastener).
• Slide the joint off the column input. Wiggle gently—don’t pry hard.

Step 6: Unbolt and remove the steering column/MDPS assembly

• Support the column with one hand while removing fasteners.
• Remove the column mounting bolts/nuts using a 14mm socket and/or 17mm socket.
• Lower the column assembly and remove it from the driver footwell area.
• Torque note: During reassembly, tighten all steering/column fasteners with a torque wrench to factory specification for your exact fastener locations. (These values vary by joint and bracket.)

Step 7: Install the replacement EPS/MDPS assembly

• Position the replacement column and start all mounting bolts/nuts by hand.
• Tighten mounting fasteners using a 14mm socket/17mm socket, then Torque to factory specification with a torque wrench.
• Reconnect the intermediate shaft to your alignment marks and install a new pinch bolt using a 12mm socket/14mm socket.
• Torque to factory specification with a torque wrench.

Step 8: Reconnect wiring and reinstall trims

• Reconnect all column/EPS connectors until they click.
• Reinstall steering column covers using a Phillips screwdriver #2 and/or Torx bit.
• Reinstall lower dash panels using the flat trim removal tool and removed screws.

Step 9: Reinstall steering wheel and airbag

• Install the steering wheel to your paint marks.
• Install a new steering wheel nut using a 19mm socket, then Torque to factory specification with a torque wrench.
• Reconnect the airbag connector(s) and locks fully.
• Reinstall the airbag module fasteners using the correct Torx bit.

Step 10: Restore power and calibrate

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Use a scan tool with EPS + SAS calibration (specialty) to run Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) zero-point calibration and clear EPS/SRS codes if present.
• If the steering wheel is off-center after calibration, do not “fix it” by moving the wheel on the splines—have the front toe alignment set correctly.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the EPS warning light turns off after bulb check.
• Turn lock-to-lock slowly in a parking lot and confirm smooth assist with no binding.
• Road test at low speed first, then normal speeds, confirming steering wheel is centered.
• Scan again for stored codes using a scan tool (specialty).
• If any SRS light stays on, stop and recheck airbag/clock spring connections.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $450-$1,500 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.