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2016 GMC Yukon
2016 GMC Yukon
Denali - V8 6.2L
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  • Guides
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  • GMC Yukon
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  • 2016
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  • 2016 GMC Yukon Power Steering Pump Issue? How to Replace the EPS Steering Gear (No Pump)
2016 GMC Yukon Denali electronic power steering repair. 

2016 GMC Yukon Denali electronic power steering repair. 

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3 Ton
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Floor Jack
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2016 GMC Yukon Power Steering Pump Issue? How to Replace the EPS Steering Gear (No Pump)

Step-by-step electric power steering rack/gear replacement with tools, parts, safety tips, calibration, and alignment notes

2016 GMC Yukon Power Steering Pump Issue? How to Replace the EPS Steering Gear (No Pump)

Step-by-step electric power steering rack/gear replacement with tools, parts, safety tips, calibration, and alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Yukon - Electric Power Steering Gear Replacement

Your Yukon Denali uses electric power steering (EPS), so it does not have a hydraulic power steering pump or power steering fluid to replace. If you’re trying to fix a “power steering pump” problem, the closest equivalent repair is replacing the EPS steering gear (rack/gear assembly with electric motor) under the front of the SUV.

Assumption: You meant replacing the EPS steering gear assembly (since no pump exists on your Yukon).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 2+ minutes before working near steering components (airbag/SIR system protection).
  • 🛑 Keep the steering wheel centered and locked. Do not let it spin with the intermediate shaft disconnected or you can damage the clock spring (the ribbon coil that carries airbag/wheel controls).
  • 🛑 Support the SUV with jack stands on a level surface; never rely on a jack.
  • 🛑 After replacement, the Yukon typically needs a steering angle sensor/EPS calibration with a scan tool and a front-end alignment.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 3/8"
  • Torque wrench 1/2"
  • Socket set metric 8mm–24mm
  • Wrench set metric 8mm–24mm
  • Torx bit set
  • Pry bar
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Tie-rod end puller (specialty)
  • Pitman/ball joint separator fork (specialty)
  • Paint marker
  • Scan tool with GM EPS functions (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Electric power steering gear assembly - Qty: 1
  • Steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt - Qty: 1
  • Outer tie rod ends - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front subframe/steering gear mounting bolts - Qty: 1 set
  • New cotter pins - Qty: 2

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Center the steering wheel and keep it centered (use a seat belt looped through the wheel if needed).
  • Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket on the negative terminal, then wait 2+ minutes.
  • Plan for an alignment: mark tie-rod positions, but still get a professional alignment afterward.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of the Yukon at the proper lift point.
  • Set it down on jack stands and verify stability before going underneath.
  • Remove both front wheels using a 22mm socket (typical lug size) and a breaker bar.

Step 2: Remove splash shields/skid plates (as equipped)

  • Remove underbody panels using a socket set and trim clip removal tool.
  • Keep fasteners grouped by panel. Phone photo helps reassembly.

Step 3: Unplug EPS electrical connectors

  • Locate the EPS steering gear and unplug the electrical connector(s) using needle-nose pliers only if needed for the lock tab.
  • Do not pull on wires—pull on the connector body by hand.

Step 4: Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles

  • Remove the cotter pins using needle-nose pliers.
  • Remove the tie rod end nuts using the correct-size socket.
  • Separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a tie-rod end puller (specialty).
  • Mark the tie rod jam nut position with a paint marker to preserve toe roughly.

Step 5: Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft from the gear

  • Make alignment marks across the shaft-to-gear input using a paint marker.
  • Remove the intermediate shaft pinch bolt using a socket set.
  • Slide the shaft off the gear input using hand pressure and a pry bar only if needed.
  • Important: Do not rotate the steering wheel with the shaft disconnected.
  • Torque to OEM specification when installing the new pinch bolt.

Step 6: Remove the steering gear mounting bolts

  • Support the steering gear by hand while removing bolts.
  • Remove steering gear mounting fasteners using a socket set and breaker bar.
  • Torque to OEM specification on reinstallation (mounting bolts are commonly torque-to-yield; replace if required).

Step 7: Remove the EPS steering gear from the vehicle

  • Work the steering gear out carefully, watching wiring and boots.
  • If it hangs up, re-check that the intermediate shaft is fully free and tie rods are separated.

Step 8: Install the new EPS steering gear

  • Position the new steering gear into place by hand.
  • Start mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten using a socket set.
  • Torque to OEM specification with a torque wrench 1/2".

Step 9: Reconnect the intermediate shaft

  • Align your paint marks and slide the shaft onto the input.
  • Install a new pinch bolt using a socket set.
  • Torque to OEM specification with a torque wrench.

Step 10: Reinstall tie rod ends

  • Reconnect tie rod ends to the knuckles and install nuts using a socket set.
  • Install new cotter pins using needle-nose pliers.
  • Snug jam nuts using a wrench set to your paint-mark position (temporary until alignment).
  • Torque to OEM specification on tie rod end nuts and jam nuts.

Step 11: Plug in EPS connectors and reinstall shields

  • Reconnect EPS electrical connectors by hand until the lock clicks.
  • Reinstall splash shields/skid plates using a socket set and trim clip removal tool.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the Yukon using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" to OEM specification.

âś… After Repair

  • Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.
  • Turn the ignition on and verify no binding while turning the wheel lock-to-lock gently.
  • Use a scan tool with GM EPS functions (specialty) to perform EPS setup as required (commonly steering angle sensor centering/calibration).
  • Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • Test drive at low speed first; confirm no warning lights for steering/StabiliTrak.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,500-$3,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $900-$2,400 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.


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