🔧 Edge - Power Steering Pump Replacement

Your Edge does not use a hydraulic power steering pump. It uses EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering), where an electric motor on the steering gear (rack) provides assist instead of fluid pressure.

If you’re having “power steering” problems, the repair is usually diagnosing power/grounds, then repairing wiring, or replacing the EPAS steering gear assembly (rack with motor/module) and performing an alignment and calibration.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: You’re trying to restore steering assist (EPAS), not fix a fluid leak.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Edge with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging EPAS connectors to prevent module damage.
• ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered and secured so the clockspring (airbag wiring coil) isn’t damaged.
• ⚠️ After steering gear work, you must get a professional alignment and usually an EPAS/steering angle calibration.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
• Socket set 8mm-24mm
• Wrench set 8mm-24mm
• Torx bit set T20-T55
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Scan tool with EPAS/SAS calibration (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• EPAS steering gear assembly (rack with motor/module) - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod ends - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
• Steering gear mounting fasteners - Qty: 1 set If specified one-time-use
• Subframe mounting fasteners - Qty: 1 set If specified one-time-use
• Front lower splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Center the steering wheel and use a seat belt to hold it in place so it can’t rotate.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and isolate it.
• Plan for the finish: you’ll need alignment and a steering angle/EPAS calibration with a capable scan tool.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

• Use a floor jack to lift the front and set the Edge on jack stands at proper lift points.
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Tighten later: wheel lug nuts Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Remove lower covers for access

• Remove the front splash shields/undertray using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.
• Set clips/screws aside in a tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Disconnect the EPAS electrical connectors

• Locate the steering gear on the subframe (it’s the long housing behind the engine with an electric motor attached).
• Unplug steering gear connectors by releasing locks with a pick tool or small flat screwdriver.
• Don’t pull on wires—pull on connectors.

Step 4: Separate outer tie rod ends from the knuckles

• Mark the tie rod jam nut position with a paint marker to help keep alignment close.
• Remove the tie rod end nut using an appropriate socket/wrench.
• Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to pop the tie rod stud out of the knuckle.
• Never hammer the steering gear/rack.

Step 5: Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft

• Inside the lower dash area (or at the firewall connection, depending on access), locate the intermediate shaft pinch bolt.
• Mark the shaft-to-gear relationship using a paint marker so it goes back on centered.
• Remove the pinch bolt using a socket (size varies by build).
• Slide the shaft off the steering gear input. Do not rotate the steering wheel.
• Pinch bolt reassembly: Torque to Ford specification.

Step 6: Support engine/subframe as needed

• Install an engine support bar (specialty) per its instructions to safely hold engine weight if the subframe needs to be lowered for clearance.
• Use a breaker bar and sockets to loosen subframe bolts only as much as needed for rack removal.
• Subframe fasteners: Torque to Ford specification and follow any “replace-after-removal” rules.

Step 7: Remove steering gear mounting bolts and extract the gear

• Remove steering gear mounting bolts using a socket and breaker bar.
• Steering gear mounting fasteners: Torque to Ford specification on installation.
• Work the steering gear out carefully (it may require angling and lowering the subframe slightly).

Step 8: Install the new steering gear

• Compare the old and new steering gears (connector locations, mounting points, tie rod threads).
• Position the new gear and start mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten mounting bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford specification.

Step 9: Reconnect intermediate shaft and tie rod ends

• Reinstall the intermediate shaft to your paint marks and install the pinch bolt using the correct socket.
• Pinch bolt: Torque to Ford specification.
• Install tie rod ends into knuckles and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford specification.
• Set jam nuts back to the paint marks using wrenches to get it close for alignment.

Step 10: Reconnect wiring, reassemble, and reinstall wheels

• Plug EPAS connectors back in until they lock.
• Reinstall splash shields using a trim clip tool and 8mm socket.
• Install wheels using a 21mm socket and snug in a star pattern.
• Lower the Edge and final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Restore power and perform required calibrations

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Use a scan tool with EPAS/SAS calibration (specialty) to run steering angle sensor and/or EPAS initialization as supported.
• If warning lights remain, scan for codes and address any connector/power issues.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the steering assist works and the wheel turns smoothly lock-to-lock.
• Make sure the steering wheel stays centered on a short, slow test drive.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Re-scan for EPAS codes after the drive and confirm none return.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $700-$1,800 (parts only)

You Save: $700-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.