2015 Toyota Highlander Timing Belt Replacement? Timing Chain Guide
Learn why there is no timing belt, plus timing chain diagnosis, tools, parts, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
2015 Toyota Highlander Timing Belt Replacement? Timing Chain Guide
Learn why there is no timing belt, plus timing chain diagnosis, tools, parts, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Highlander - Timing Belt Check
Your Highlander does not use a timing belt. The 2.7L inline-4 engine uses a timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and is not replaced at normal timing-belt service intervals.
If you are hearing chain rattle, have cam/crank correlation trouble codes, or oil sludge concerns, the repair becomes a timing chain diagnosis or timing chain replacement, which is a more advanced engine repair.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not remove timing components unless the engine is set to top dead center, meaning cylinder #1 is positioned for correct timing alignment.
- ⚠️ Incorrect timing chain installation can cause engine damage or a no-start condition.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing engine covers or working near the starter circuit.
- ⚠️ Support the engine correctly before removing any engine mount parts.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant or working near the exhaust side of the engine.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 1/2-inch breaker bar
- Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty)
- Floor jack 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands 3-ton minimum
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Gasket scraper plastic
- Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
- Paint marker white
- Feeler gauge set
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Front timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- Engine oil 0W-20 synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Toyota-compatible coolant - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Highlander on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely before starting.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Raise the front of the vehicle with a 3-ton floor jack and support it with 3-ton jack stands.
- Use a drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the engine before draining coolant or removing covers.
- Have a clean work area ready. Timing parts must stay clean.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm This Is a Timing Chain Repair
- There is no timing belt to replace on your Highlander.
- The timing chain sits inside the engine behind the front timing cover.
- A timing chain is a metal chain that keeps the crankshaft and camshafts turning in sync.
- If your goal was routine maintenance, stop here. Routine timing belt replacement does not apply to this engine.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal.
- Move the cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back into contact.
- Protects electronics while working.
Step 3: Raise and Support the Front
- Use a 3-ton floor jack to lift the front of your Highlander at the proper front jack point.
- Place 3-ton jack stands under the approved support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the stands.
- Keep the floor jack nearby as a backup, but do not rely on it alone.
Step 4: Remove Engine Covers and Splash Shield
- Use a 10mm socket and plastic trim clip remover to remove the lower splash shield fasteners.
- Remove the top engine appearance cover by lifting it straight up by hand.
- Set all clips and bolts in labeled containers.
Step 5: Drain Coolant and Engine Oil
- Place a 2-gallon drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Use gloved hands and open the radiator drain carefully if equipped.
- Place the drain pan under the oil pan.
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the engine oil drain plug.
- Reinstall the oil drain plug after draining and tighten with a 14mm socket.
- Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Remove Accessory Drive Belt
- Use a 14mm socket on the belt tensioner to relieve belt tension.
- A belt tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it from the engine bay.
- Take a photo first if you are not replacing the belt.
Step 7: Support the Engine
- Install an engine support bar 1,000-lb rated across the upper engine bay.
- Attach it to a safe engine lifting point.
- Lightly tension the support bar so it holds the engine weight.
- An engine support bar safely holds the engine when a mount is removed.
Step 8: Remove Right-Side Engine Mount Components
- Use 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the right-side engine mount bracket bolts as needed for timing cover access.
- Keep the mount bolts organized by location.
- Do not force the engine to move with a pry bar.
Step 9: Remove Crankshaft Pulley
- Install the crankshaft pulley holding tool to keep the pulley from turning.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the pulley evenly.
- A harmonic balancer puller removes the crank pulley without damaging it.
Step 10: Remove Valve Cover
- Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil and valve cover fasteners.
- Lift the valve cover gently.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper only if the gasket sticks.
- Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.
Step 11: Set Engine to Top Dead Center
- Use a 21mm socket on the crankshaft bolt area to rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks to top dead center.
- Top dead center means cylinder #1 is at the top of its compression stroke.
- Use a white paint marker to highlight factory timing marks before removing anything.
- Take photos before disassembly.
Step 12: Remove Front Timing Cover
- Use 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to remove front timing cover bolts.
- Note bolt lengths and locations carefully.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to gently separate the cover at the sealant joint.
- Do not pry against machined sealing surfaces.
Step 13: Remove Timing Chain Tensioner and Guides
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the timing chain tensioner.
- The tensioner is the part that keeps the timing chain tight.
- Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the timing chain guides.
- Keep hands clear of the chain path as tension is released.
Step 14: Remove Timing Chain
- Use your hands to lift the chain off the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.
- Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts after the chain is removed.
- If anything moves, stop and realign the timing marks before continuing.
Step 15: Install New Timing Chain
- Match the colored chain links to the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks.
- Use the white paint marker marks you made earlier as a visual check.
- Install the chain carefully over the sprockets without forcing it.
- Install the new guides using 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
- Tighten guide fasteners to the service specification supplied with the kit if provided.
Step 16: Install Timing Chain Tensioner
- Install the new timing chain tensioner using a 10mm socket.
- Release the tensioner pin only after the chain and guides are correctly positioned.
- Check that the chain is tight on the correct side and the timing marks still align.
Step 17: Rotate Engine by Hand
- Use a 21mm socket to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
- Stop if you feel hard resistance.
- Recheck timing mark alignment after rotation.
- This confirms the pistons and valves are not contacting each other.
Step 18: Reseal Front Timing Cover
- Clean old sealant with a plastic gasket scraper and shop towels.
- Apply front timing cover sealant in the correct bead pattern around the cover.
- Install the timing cover using 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket.
- Tighten bolts evenly in stages.
- Follow the sealant working time listed on the tube.
Step 19: Install Crankshaft Front Oil Seal and Pulley
- Install the new crankshaft front oil seal squarely into the cover.
- Slide the crankshaft pulley into place by hand.
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool, 21mm socket, and torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use the current Toyota service specification for final crank bolt torque and angle.
Step 20: Reinstall Valve Cover
- Install the new valve cover gasket into the valve cover groove.
- Set the valve cover onto the cylinder head without pinching the gasket.
- Use a 10mm socket to install the valve cover bolts.
- Tighten evenly from the center outward.
Step 21: Reinstall Engine Mount and Belt
- Use 14mm socket and 17mm socket to reinstall the right-side engine mount components.
- Remove the engine support bar 1,000-lb rated only after the mount is fully secured.
- Use a 14mm socket on the tensioner and reinstall the accessory drive belt.
- Check that the belt ribs sit correctly in every pulley groove.
Step 22: Refill Oil and Coolant
- Install a new oil filter by hand until snug, then tighten per filter instructions.
- Add 0W-20 synthetic engine oil.
- Refill the cooling system with Toyota-compatible coolant.
- Use shop towels to wipe spilled oil or coolant before starting.
Step 23: Reconnect Battery and Start Engine
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Listen for abnormal rattling, knocking, or grinding.
- Shut the engine off immediately if it runs rough or makes loud chain noise.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Check for oil leaks around the timing cover and valve cover.
- ✅ Check for coolant leaks after the engine reaches operating temperature.
- ✅ Verify the coolant level again after the engine cools.
- ✅ Recheck engine oil level with the dipstick and top off if needed.
- ✅ Clear any stored trouble codes with a scan tool if timing-related codes were present before repair.
- ✅ Road test gently for 10-15 minutes, then inspect again for leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$800 (parts only)
You Save: $1,000-$2,400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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