🔧 Fusion - Power Steering “Pump” Replacement (Not Applicable / EPAS System)

Your Fusion does not use a hydraulic power steering pump. It uses EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering), where an electric motor helps steering through the steering gear (rack).

If you’re having “power steering pump” symptoms (heavy steering, warnings, whining), the usual repair is diagnosing/repairing the EPAS steering gear, wiring, or 12V power supply—not replacing a pump.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Hybrid safety: keep hands/tools away from orange high-voltage cables.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative before unplugging EPAS connectors.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Steering gear replacement typically requires lowering the front subframe; improper support can cause injury.
• ⚠️ After steering work, a professional alignment is required for safe driving.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Metric socket set (8mm–21mm)
• Metric wrench set (8mm–21mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Ratchet extensions (3-inch and 6-inch)
• Torx bit set (T20–T50)
• Pry bar (12–18 inch)
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Tie-rod end puller (specialty)
• Steering wheel holder or seat belt strap
• Trim clip tool
• Paint marker
• Scan tool with EPAS functions (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• EPAS steering gear (steering rack) assembly - Qty: 1
• Outer tie-rod ends - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs.
• Steering gear mounting bolts (single-use if required) - Qty: 1 set
• Subframe bolts (single-use if required) - Qty: 1 set
• Front lower control arm pinch bolt/nut (if removed) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the front wheels, and set the parking brake.
• Use wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the trunk and disconnect the 12V battery negative using a 10mm socket.
• Center and lock the steering wheel using a steering wheel holder or seat belt strap. This prevents damaging the clock spring (the ribbon cable behind the wheel).
• Assumption: You’re replacing the EPAS steering gear because there is no pump on this model.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper lift points.
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket (typical lug size).
• Torque to Ford wheel lug specification using a torque wrench.

Step 2: Disconnect the outer tie-rod ends

• Mark the tie-rod jam nut position with a paint marker so the toe setting is close for the drive to the alignment shop.
• Remove the tie-rod end nut using a metric socket and ratchet.
• Separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle using a tie-rod end puller (specialty).
• Tip: Don’t hammer the knuckle ears.

Step 3: Disconnect the steering column intermediate shaft from the rack

• From inside the cabin/footwell area (or from the engine bay depending on access), locate the intermediate shaft pinch bolt.
• Mark the shaft-to-rack relationship with a paint marker.
• Remove the pinch bolt using the correct metric socket and ratchet extension.
• Torque to Ford steering shaft pinch-bolt specification with a torque wrench during reassembly.

Step 4: Remove underbody shields and access panels

• Remove splash shields using a trim clip tool and metric socket set.
• Set fasteners aside in a tray so you don’t mix lengths.

Step 5: Support and lower the front subframe (as needed for rack removal)

• Support the subframe evenly using a floor jack and a stable block.
• Loosen/remove subframe bolts using a breaker bar and metric socket set.
• Lower the subframe slowly just enough to slide the steering gear out.
• Torque to Ford subframe bolt specification with a torque wrench on reassembly.

Step 6: Disconnect EPAS electrical connectors

• Unplug the EPAS connectors from the steering gear using a trim clip tool (to release locks) and your hand.
• Inspect for corrosion, bent pins, or water intrusion.

Step 7: Remove the steering gear (rack) from the subframe

• Remove steering gear mounting bolts using a metric socket set and ratchet.
• Work the rack out carefully; use a pry bar only if needed.
• Torque to Ford steering gear mounting bolt specification with a torque wrench on installation.

Step 8: Install the new steering gear and reconnect everything

• Position the replacement rack and hand-start all bolts using a ratchet (do not cross-thread).
• Tighten mounting bolts in stages using a torque wrench: Torque to Ford specification.
• Reconnect EPAS connectors by hand until they fully lock.
• Raise the subframe back into place and tighten bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford specification.
• Reconnect the steering intermediate shaft and tighten the pinch bolt using a torque wrench: Torque to Ford specification.

Step 9: Reinstall tie-rods, shields, and wheels

• Install outer tie-rod ends and tighten fasteners using a metric socket set and torque wrench: Torque to Ford specification.
• Reinstall splash shields using a trim clip tool and metric socket set.
• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket, then final-tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford wheel lug specification.

Step 10: Restore 12V power and perform EPAS resets

• Reconnect the 12V battery negative using a 10mm socket.
• Use a scan tool with EPAS functions (specialty) to clear EPAS codes and perform steering angle/center calibration if prompted.
• Tip: If the wheel is off-center, stop and align.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and verify no Power Steering Assist Fault messages.
• With the front wheels off the ground, slowly turn lock-to-lock to confirm smooth assist (use caution).
• Road test at low speed first; steering should be centered and stable.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment immediately.
• If warning lights return, scan again with a scan tool and address any EPAS power/communication faults.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $650-$1,600 (parts only)

You Save: $750-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-10 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.