🔧 Fusion - Timing Belt Replacement

Your Fusion does not use a timing belt. The 2.0L hybrid engine uses a timing chain, which is internal and not a normal maintenance item like a belt.

Assumption: You meant the engine accessory/serpentine belt (the external belt that drives accessories). Below is the correct DIY procedure for that belt.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Make sure the car is OFF and the key/fob is kept at least 15 feet away so it can’t “wake up” unexpectedly.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers, hair, and clothing away from pulleys—pinch points can injure you fast.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ If you raise the car, support it with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench (19mm)
• Socket set (8mm, 10mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• 15mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) - Qty: 1
• Accessory belt tensioner - Qty: 1 (optional, if noisy/weak)
• Idler pulley - Qty: 1 (optional, if noisy/rough)

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and confirm the engine is cool to the touch.
• Have a photo ready of the belt routing (take a picture with your phone before removal). Photos prevent routing mistakes.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front-right corner

• Use wheel chocks to block the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the approved front-right jacking point.
• Set the car securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the front-right wheel using a lug wrench (19mm).

Step 2: Remove the inner splash shield for belt access

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic push-clips.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a ratchet (3/8") to remove any small bolts (varies by shield).
• Pull the splash shield back enough to clearly see the belt and tensioner.

Step 3: Locate the belt tensioner

• Find the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a pulley). It keeps the belt tight automatically.
• Set up a work light so you can see the belt path clearly.

Step 4: Release tension and remove the old belt

• Put a 15mm socket on the tensioner’s hex boss/bolt head.
• Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) (a long, thin handle made for tight belt areas) or a ratchet (3/8") to rotate the tensioner and relieve belt tension.
• While holding the tensioner rotated, slide the belt off the nearest easy pulley.
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position (don’t let it snap back).
• Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and take it out.

Step 5: Inspect pulleys and tensioner before installing the new belt

• Spin each pulley by hand while wearing mechanic gloves.
• If any pulley feels rough, wobbly, or noisy, plan to replace that pulley/tensioner (a bad pulley can shred the new belt).

Step 6: Route and install the new belt

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following your photo (or the under-hood routing label if equipped).
• Keep the belt fully seated in the grooves on all ribbed pulleys before applying tension.
• Use the 15mm socket with the serpentine belt tool (specialty) to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Double-check the belt is centered and seated on every pulley.

Step 7: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reposition the splash shield and reinstall fasteners using the trim clip removal tool, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and ratchet (3/8") as needed.
• Reinstall the wheel using a lug wrench (19mm).
• Lower the car using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs): Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the car and let it idle while you watch the belt for 30–60 seconds (keep hands and tools away).
• Listen for squealing, chirping, or knocking—those usually mean mis-routing or a failing pulley.
• Turn the car off and re-check that the belt is still seated correctly in all grooves.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.