2013-2020 Chevrolet Malibu Timing Belt vs Timing Chain: How to Replace the 2.5L Timing Chain (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step timing chain replacement with required tools, parts list, timing mark alignment, and safety tips
2013-2020 Chevrolet Malibu Timing Belt vs Timing Chain: How to Replace the 2.5L Timing Chain (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step timing chain replacement with required tools, parts list, timing mark alignment, and safety tips for 2013, 2014
🔧 Malibu - Timing Belt Replacement
Your Malibu’s 2.5L engine does not use a timing belt—it uses a timing chain (a metal chain inside the engine). The replacement process is very different than a belt job and it’s an advanced repair because the engine timing must be set precisely to avoid major engine damage.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on a level surface; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely; coolant and exhaust parts can burn you.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter/alternator.
- ⚠️ Incorrect cam/crank timing can cause a no-start or internal engine damage.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Metric socket set (8mm-24mm)
- Metric wrench set (8mm-19mm)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- Angle gauge (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
- Camshaft holding/locking tool set for GM 2.5L (specialty)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Gasket scraper
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Engine support bar (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit (chain, guides, tensioner) - Qty: 1
- Front cover gasket set - Qty: 1
- Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft pulley bolt (single-use) - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (DEX-COOL compatible) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Engine oil (5W-30) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- RTV sealant (GM-spec equivalent) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Plan to drain coolant and do an oil change afterward (coolant/oil contamination risk when the front cover comes off).
- Uncommon tool note: A camshaft locking tool holds the cams in position so timing can’t slip while the chain is off.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm the job you actually need
- This engine uses a timing chain, not a belt.
- Common reasons to replace it: rattling on cold start, metal/plastic debris, or cam/crank correlation faults.
Step 2: Lift and access the passenger-side front of the engine
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front-right and set the car on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the RF wheel using a 19mm socket.
- Remove the inner fender splash shield fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and 7mm/10mm socket as equipped.
- Reinstall wheel later: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
Step 3: Drain coolant and prepare for front cover removal
- Place a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain.
- Open the drain using pliers or a suitable hand tool (varies by radiator), and drain coolant.
Step 4: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount
- Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the fenders and take the engine weight.
- Remove the mount and bracket bolts using a metric socket set (13mm-18mm).
- Tip: Take photos before bolt removal.
Step 5: Remove the drive belt and crank pulley (harmonic balancer)
- Release belt tension using the correct socket on the tensioner (commonly 15mm socket), then slip the belt off.
- Remove the crank pulley bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and appropriate socket.
- Remove the pulley with a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty).
Step 6: Remove the front timing cover
- Remove front cover bolts using a metric socket set (10mm-13mm).
- Carefully separate the cover; use a flathead screwdriver only at designated pry points to avoid gouging.
- Clean gasket surfaces using a gasket scraper, then finish with brake cleaner spray and shop rags.
Step 7: Lock the cams and set cylinder 1 to TDC on compression
- Rotate the engine by hand using a socket on the crank (use the correct size from your metric socket set) until timing marks align.
- Install the camshaft holding/locking tool set for GM 2.5L (specialty) per its instructions.
- Tip: Never rotate cams with the chain off.
Step 8: Remove tensioner, guides, and the timing chain
- Remove the tensioner bolts using a metric socket set.
- Remove the chain guides using a metric socket set.
- Lift the chain off the sprockets carefully.
Step 9: Install the new chain, guides, and tensioner
- Install the new guides using a torque wrench (exact guide/tensioner torque depends on the fastener location).
- Align the colored chain links with the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets.
- Install the new tensioner and release it according to the kit design.
Step 10: Verify timing by hand rotation
- Remove the cam locking tools.
- Rotate the engine two full turns by hand using a ratchet on the crank bolt location.
- Re-check that timing marks realign correctly.
Step 11: Reinstall front cover, crank seal, and crank pulley
- Install a new front crankshaft seal into the cover if not pre-installed.
- Apply RTV sealant (GM-spec equivalent) at the specified seam/corner points (commonly where cover meets oil pan/head).
- Reinstall the cover bolts using a torque wrench in an even pattern.
- Install the crank pulley and a new crankshaft pulley bolt (single-use).
Step 12: Reassemble, refill, and change oil
- Reinstall the engine mount, belt, splash shield, and wheel using your metric socket set.
- Refill coolant using a funnel.
- Change oil and filter using a drain pan and appropriate sockets/wrenches.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and listen for abnormal rattles at the timing cover area.
- Check for oil leaks around the timing cover and crank seal.
- Bring the engine to operating temperature and verify the coolant level; top off as needed.
- If the check engine light was on, scan for codes after the repair and confirm none return.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $950-$1,550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-10 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
I need 2 quick details so I can give you the exact, bolt-by-bolt procedure with correct torque specs:
- 🔹 Are you trying to fix a symptom (rattle on cold start / check engine light), or is this preventative maintenance?
- 🔹 Do you have the camshaft locking tool set and harmonic balancer puller, or would you prefer a tool-free “what to remove” overview and then stop before the timing-critical steps?
