🔧 Juke - Electric Power Steering (EPS) Steering Gear Replacement

Your Juke does not use a hydraulic power steering pump (no belt-driven pump, no power steering fluid). It uses an Electric Power Steering (EPS) system, where an electric motor and control unit provide steering assist.

Assumption: You meant “power steering” repair (EPS steering gear/rack), since there is no pump to replace on your Juke.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before working near steering components to reduce airbag/SRS risk.
• ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered and locked; do not let it spin with the intermediate shaft disconnected (can damage the clock spring, the ribbon cable for the airbag).
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle on jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ You’ll need a professional alignment after this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10-100 Nm range)
• Torque wrench 1/2" (40-250 Nm range)
• Socket set 8mm-21mm
• Wrench set 10mm-21mm
• Allen key set (metric)
• Pry bar 18"
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Tie-rod end puller (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Scan tool with Nissan EPS/SAS functions (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• EPS steering gear (steering rack) assembly - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod ends - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Steering gear mounting hardware - Qty: 1 kit
• Front subframe hardware - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Center the steering wheel and keep the front wheels pointed straight.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the battery negative terminal, then wait 3 minutes.
• Plan for an alignment right after the install (same day if possible).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the vehicle

• Loosen front lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
• Lift with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Reinstall lug nuts later and Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Remove lower covers/undertray (if equipped)

• Remove clips and screws using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
• Set hardware aside in a tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Mark and disconnect the steering intermediate shaft

• Locate the steering intermediate shaft where it clamps to the steering gear input.
• Use a paint marker to mark the shaft-to-joint alignment. Marks prevent a crooked steering wheel.
• Remove the pinch bolt using the correct socket set 8mm-21mm size for your fastener.
• Slide the joint off the steering gear input; use a pry bar 18" gently if stuck.
• Torque note: Re-torque the pinch bolt to the factory spec for your rack/shaft fastener during reassembly.

Step 4: Disconnect the EPS electrical connectors

• Unplug the steering gear electrical connectors using needle-nose pliers only if a lock tab needs help.
• Do not pull on wires; pull on the connector body.

Step 5: Disconnect outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles

• Remove cotter pins (if equipped) using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end nuts using the appropriate socket set 8mm-21mm size.
• Separate the joint using a tie-rod end puller (specialty) (this avoids hammer damage).
• Count turns when removing tie rod ends from the inner rods, and write the number down.

Step 6: Support and lower the front subframe enough to remove the rack

• Support the subframe with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and a wood block.
• Loosen (do not fully remove at first) subframe bolts using a breaker bar 1/2" and socket set 8mm-21mm.
• Lower the subframe just enough to create clearance for the steering gear to slide out.
• Torque note: Subframe bolts are critical fasteners—tighten to factory spec during reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the steering gear (rack)

• Remove steering gear mounting bolts using the appropriate socket set 8mm-21mm and breaker bar 1/2".
• Slide the steering gear out carefully; use a pry bar 18" only for light positioning, not forcing.
• Compare the new unit to the old one (mounts, connector locations, tie rod thread sizes).

Step 8: Install the new steering gear

• Position the new steering gear into place by hand.
• Install mounting bolts finger-tight first using a socket set 8mm-21mm.
• Tighten with a torque wrench 1/2" (40-250 Nm range) to the factory specification for your steering gear fasteners.
• Reconnect EPS electrical connectors by hand until the locks click.

Step 9: Reconnect the intermediate shaft (keep steering wheel centered)

• Align your paint marks and slide the shaft joint back on.
• Install the pinch bolt using the appropriate socket set 8mm-21mm.
• Tighten using a torque wrench 3/8" (10-100 Nm range) to the factory specification.

Step 10: Reinstall tie rod ends (rough alignment)

• Thread tie rod ends on using the same turn count you recorded.
• Insert tie rod studs into the knuckles and tighten nuts using the appropriate socket set 8mm-21mm.
• Install new cotter pins (if equipped) using needle-nose pliers.

Step 11: Raise and re-torque the subframe

• Raise the subframe back into place using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten subframe bolts using a torque wrench 1/2" (40-250 Nm range) to the factory specification.

Step 12: Reinstall undertray and wheels

• Reinstall covers using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle, then Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2" (40-250 Nm range).

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Turn the key on and confirm the EPS warning light goes out after the bulb check.
• Use a scan tool with Nissan EPS/SAS functions (specialty) to perform steering angle sensor (SAS) zero-point calibration if required.
• Get a professional 4-wheel alignment immediately.
• Do a slow test drive: check for pulling, steering off-center, or warning lights.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $650-$1,800 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 5-8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.