🔧 Challenger - Timing Belt Replacement

Your Challenger does not use a timing belt. The 6.4L HEMI uses a timing chain, which is lubricated by engine oil and typically isn’t a routine replacement item like a belt.

If you’re chasing a noise, a check-engine light, or doing an engine rebuild, you can replace the timing chain set—but it’s a big, precision job because cam/crank timing must be set correctly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-14 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car securely on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; hot coolant/oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter/alternator wiring.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/tools clear when rotating the crankshaft by hand.
• ⚠️ Cleanliness matters: dirt in the front cover can cause oil leaks.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Socket set (metric)
• Wrench set (metric)
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Serpentine belt tool (long handle)
• Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
• Harmonic balancer installer (specialty)
• Crankshaft holding tool (specialty)
• Camshaft phaser holding/locking tool (specialty)
• Gasket scraper (plastic)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Shop rags
• Brake cleaner spray
• Funnel

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain set (primary chain, guides, tensioner) - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft damper bolt (one-time-use) - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (HOAT/OAT type as specified for your Challenger) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Engine oil - Qty: 7 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• RTV silicone sealant (OEM-equivalent) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket (negative cable first).
• Plan to do an oil change and coolant refill after reassembly.
• Two quick questions so I can give the exact best path:
  • Are you replacing the timing chain due to rattle/noise at startup, a check-engine light, or an engine rebuild?
  • Do you want to do this with the radiator still installed, or are you okay removing it for more space?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and prep the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved jacking point.
• Set the car on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the lower splash shield using a socket set (metric) and trim clip removal tool.

Step 2: Drain coolant and engine oil

• Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain and drain coolant.
• Drain engine oil and remove the oil filter using a socket set (metric) or appropriate filter tool.
• Bag bolts by area; label them.

Step 3: Remove intake ducting and fan/shroud (as needed)

• Remove intake ducting with a socket set (metric).
• Remove the fan/shroud assembly using a socket set (metric) and unplug connectors carefully.

Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt and front accessories

• Release belt tension using a serpentine belt tool (long handle) and remove the belt.
• Remove accessory mounting bolts using a socket set (metric) and move components aside if possible (don’t stress hoses/wiring).

Step 5: Remove the crank damper (harmonic balancer)

• Install a crankshaft holding tool (specialty) to prevent the crank from turning.
• Remove the crank bolt using a breaker bar (1/2-inch drive) and socket set (metric).
• Use a harmonic balancer puller (specialty) to remove the damper.

Step 6: Remove the front timing cover

• Remove timing cover fasteners with a socket set (metric).
• Carefully separate the cover without gouging surfaces; use a gasket scraper (plastic) and shop rags.
• Clean gasket surfaces with brake cleaner spray and shop rags.

Step 7: Set engine to timing position and lock components

• Rotate the engine by hand using a breaker bar (1/2-inch drive) until timing marks align.
• Install the camshaft phaser holding/locking tool (specialty) as required.
• Never use the starter to “bump” timing.

Step 8: Remove the timing chain, guides, and tensioner

• Remove the chain tensioner using a socket set (metric).
• Remove chain guides using a socket set (metric).
• Remove the timing chain, keeping note of routing and mark alignment.

Step 9: Install new timing chain set and verify timing marks

• Install new guides and tensioner using a socket set (metric).
• Install the new chain aligned to the timing marks per factory procedure.
• Torque fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec for each fastener group.
• Rotate the engine by hand two full turns with a breaker bar (1/2-inch drive) and re-check timing mark alignment.

Step 10: Reinstall front cover with new seal and gaskets

• Install a new front crank seal into the cover using appropriate drivers and a harmonic balancer installer (specialty) if needed.
• Apply RTV silicone sealant (OEM-equivalent) only at the specified joints and corners.
• Install the timing cover and torque bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec in the proper sequence.

Step 11: Reinstall crank damper and accessories

• Press the damper on using a harmonic balancer installer (specialty) (don’t hammer it on).
• Install a new crank bolt and tighten using a torque wrench and crankshaft holding tool (specialty): Torque to OEM spec (often torque-to-yield).
• Reinstall accessories and torque fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM spec.
• Reinstall the serpentine belt using a serpentine belt tool (long handle).

Step 12: Refill fluids and reconnect the battery

• Install a new oil filter and refill oil using a funnel.
• Refill coolant and bleed air per factory method using a funnel and drain pan.
• Reconnect battery using a 10mm socket (negative cable last).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen: there should be no chain rattle or knocking.
• Check for oil leaks around the timing cover and crank seal.
• Bring the engine to operating temperature and recheck coolant level after it cools.
• If a check-engine light is on, scan and clear codes, then confirm none return.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $1,450-$2,600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-14 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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