🔧 Accord - Timing Belt Replacement

Your Accord’s 2.4L engine does not use a timing belt—it uses a timing chain. That means there’s no normal “timing belt replacement” service interval like on belt-driven engines.

Most owners asking this are actually trying to replace the accessory drive belt (also called the serpentine belt), which runs the alternator and A/C. The steps below cover the accessory drive belt replacement on your Accord.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat surface and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔥 Let the engine cool fully; you’ll work near hot components.
• 🧤 Keep fingers clear of the belt path and tensioner while releasing tension.
• 🔑 Key off, engine off. Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (30-150 ft-lbs)
• 14mm socket
• 14mm combination wrench
• 10mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) - Qty: 1
• Lower splash shield fasteners - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔦 Have a flashlight ready—the belt routing is easier to verify with good lighting.
• 📝 Look for the belt routing diagram under the hood. If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the right-front and remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to loosen the right-front lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the car is still on the ground.
• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift at the proper front jacking point, then support the car with jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and take off the wheel.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield / access panel

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic clips.
• If equipped with small bolts, remove them using a 10mm socket.
• Move the shield aside to expose the belt and tensioner area.

Step 3: Relieve belt tension

• Locate the automatic belt tensioner. The tensioner is the spring-loaded pulley assembly that keeps the belt tight.
• Use a 14mm socket on the tensioner’s hex point and turn it steadily to relieve tension.
• Move slowly; the spring is strong.

Step 4: Remove the old belt

• While holding the tensioner released with the 14mm socket, slip the belt off the nearest easy pulley (usually the alternator pulley) by hand.
• Carefully let the tensioner return to its resting position.
• Pull the belt out of the engine bay and compare it to the new belt (length and rib count should match).

Step 5: Install the new belt (verify routing)

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood diagram.
• Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in the grooved pulleys and the belt sits centered on any smooth pulleys.
• Use a flashlight to confirm the belt isn’t riding on an edge.

Step 6: Apply tension and final-check alignment

• Use the 14mm socket to rotate the tensioner again and slip the belt onto the final pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner and re-check every pulley for proper seating.
• If it’s off one rib, re-do it now.

Step 7: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip removal tool (to press clips back in) and the 10mm socket if bolts are present.
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower the car, then use a torque wrench (30-150 ft-lbs) with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 👀 Before starting, look one last time to confirm the belt is seated on every pulley.
• 🔊 Start the engine and watch the belt for 30-60 seconds. It should run straight with no hopping or squealing.
• 🧪 Turn on A/C and headlights; listen for any new chirping (often means misalignment).
• ✅ Recheck the splash shield and lug nuts after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $95-$160 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Quick question (so I don’t steer you wrong): Were you trying to replace the serpentine/accessory belt, or did you mean the timing chain because you’re hearing a rattle or have a check-engine light?