2005-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe: Timing Belt vs Timing Chain + How to Replace the Serpentine Belt (Engine: V6 3.3L)
Clarifies why there’s no timing belt, then provides step-by-step accessory belt replacement with tools, parts, routing tips, and safety checks
2005-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe: Timing Belt vs Timing Chain + How to Replace the Serpentine Belt (Engine: V6 3.3L)
Clarifies why there’s no timing belt, then provides step-by-step accessory belt replacement with tools, parts, routing tips, and safety checks for 2005, 2006
🔧 Santa Fe - Timing Belt Replacement (Not Applicable: Uses Timing Chain)
Your Santa Fe’s 3.3L V6 does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain, which is inside the engine and is not a normal maintenance item like a belt.
If you were told “timing belt,” it’s often a mix-up with the serpentine/accessory drive belt (the outside belt that runs the alternator and A/C). Below is the correct DIY procedure for replacing that belt.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of fans and pulleys.
- ⚠️ Key off, and keep the key/fob away from the vehicle while your hands are near the belt drive.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this belt replacement, but avoid shorting tools on the battery or alternator.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive breaker bar
- 3" 3/8" drive extension
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flashlight
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine/accessory drive belt (3.3L V6) - Qty: 1
- Replacement plastic push clips (engine splash shield/liner, as needed) - Qty: 1-6
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Chock a rear wheel using wheel chocks.
- Open the hood and take a photo of the belt routing, or reference the routing diagram sticker under the hood (if equipped).
- If access is tight, raise the front-right corner with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Gain access to the belt area
- Use a flashlight to locate the belt and tensioner on the passenger side of the engine.
- If needed, remove the lower splash shield/side access panel using a trim clip removal tool. Pop clips straight out to avoid breaking.
Step 2: Relieve tension from the belt
- Install a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive breaker bar on the belt tensioner’s hex fitting/bolt head.
- Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve belt tension (you are “pulling the spring back”).
- While holding the tensioner back, slide the belt off the easiest pulley (usually a smooth idler pulley) by hand.
- Slowly return the tensioner to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.
Step 3: Remove the old belt
- Pull the belt out from around the pulleys by hand.
- Use a flashlight to inspect each pulley for wobble or roughness by spinning them by hand (engine OFF). Rough feel can mean a bad pulley.
Step 4: Route the new belt correctly
- Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo).
- Make sure every “V” rib is seated in the grooves on ribbed pulleys, and the back of the belt rides on smooth pulleys.
- Leave the easiest pulley for last (commonly a smooth idler pulley).
Step 5: Apply tension and seat the belt
- Use the 14mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Double-check belt alignment on every pulley using a flashlight.
Step 6: Reinstall shields (if removed)
- Reinstall any splash shields/panels using the trim clip removal tool (and new clips if any broke).
- If you raised the vehicle, lower it safely using the floor jack after removing the jack stands.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 15-30 seconds (keep hands and clothing away).
- Listen for chirping/squealing. If you hear it, shut off and re-check belt routing and pulley alignment.
- Turn A/C on and headlights on to add load and confirm the belt runs smoothly.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $140-$280 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $115-$210 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















