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2016 Hyundai Santa Fe
2005 - 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe
V6 2.7L
Compatible with more variants.
2013 - 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe
V6 3.3L
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  • Guides
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  • Hyundai Santa Fe
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  • 2016
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  • 2005-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe: Timing Belt vs Timing Chain + How to Replace the Serpentine Belt (Engine: V6 3.3L)
2015-2021 HYUNDAI/KIA 2.4 SERPENTINE BELT AND WATER PUMP BELT REPLACEMENT. TUCSON SONATA SANTA FE

2015-2021 HYUNDAI/KIA 2.4 SERPENTINE BELT AND WATER PUMP BELT REPLACEMENT. TUCSON SONATA SANTA FE

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17/32"
17/32"
Socket
or (14mm)
3/8
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2005-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe: Timing Belt vs Timing Chain + How to Replace the Serpentine Belt (Engine: V6 3.3L)

Clarifies why there’s no timing belt, then provides step-by-step accessory belt replacement with tools, parts, routing tips, and safety checks

2005-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe: Timing Belt vs Timing Chain + How to Replace the Serpentine Belt (Engine: V6 3.3L)

Clarifies why there’s no timing belt, then provides step-by-step accessory belt replacement with tools, parts, routing tips, and safety checks for 2005, 2006

Orion
Orion

🔧 Santa Fe - Timing Belt Replacement (Not Applicable: Uses Timing Chain)

Your Santa Fe’s 3.3L V6 does not use a timing belt. It uses a timing chain, which is inside the engine and is not a normal maintenance item like a belt.

If you were told “timing belt,” it’s often a mix-up with the serpentine/accessory drive belt (the outside belt that runs the alternator and A/C). Below is the correct DIY procedure for replacing that belt.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of fans and pulleys.
  • ⚠️ Key off, and keep the key/fob away from the vehicle while your hands are near the belt drive.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this belt replacement, but avoid shorting tools on the battery or alternator.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive breaker bar
  • 3" 3/8" drive extension
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flashlight
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Serpentine/accessory drive belt (3.3L V6) - Qty: 1
  • Replacement plastic push clips (engine splash shield/liner, as needed) - Qty: 1-6

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock a rear wheel using wheel chocks.
  • Open the hood and take a photo of the belt routing, or reference the routing diagram sticker under the hood (if equipped).
  • If access is tight, raise the front-right corner with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Gain access to the belt area

  • Use a flashlight to locate the belt and tensioner on the passenger side of the engine.
  • If needed, remove the lower splash shield/side access panel using a trim clip removal tool. Pop clips straight out to avoid breaking.

Step 2: Relieve tension from the belt

  • Install a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive breaker bar on the belt tensioner’s hex fitting/bolt head.
  • Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve belt tension (you are “pulling the spring back”).
  • While holding the tensioner back, slide the belt off the easiest pulley (usually a smooth idler pulley) by hand.
  • Slowly return the tensioner to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.

Step 3: Remove the old belt

  • Pull the belt out from around the pulleys by hand.
  • Use a flashlight to inspect each pulley for wobble or roughness by spinning them by hand (engine OFF). Rough feel can mean a bad pulley.

Step 4: Route the new belt correctly

  • Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo).
  • Make sure every “V” rib is seated in the grooves on ribbed pulleys, and the back of the belt rides on smooth pulleys.
  • Leave the easiest pulley for last (commonly a smooth idler pulley).

Step 5: Apply tension and seat the belt

  • Use the 14mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
  • Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Double-check belt alignment on every pulley using a flashlight.

Step 6: Reinstall shields (if removed)

  • Reinstall any splash shields/panels using the trim clip removal tool (and new clips if any broke).
  • If you raised the vehicle, lower it safely using the floor jack after removing the jack stands.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 15-30 seconds (keep hands and clothing away).
  • Listen for chirping/squealing. If you hear it, shut off and re-check belt routing and pulley alignment.
  • Turn A/C on and headlights on to add load and confirm the belt runs smoothly.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $140-$280 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $115-$210 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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