2000 Dodge Stratus P0340 Fix: Cam Sensor Circuit Troubleshoot, IAC/ASD Checks, Timing Guide
2000 Dodge Stratus P0340 Fix: Cam Sensor Circuit Troubleshoot, IAC/ASD Checks, Timing Guide
.i had to replace the can shaft position sensor then we changed the crankshaft sensor..still wouldn't run and now have changed the fuel pump and the starter...and now when turning the ignition it only will start if I hold the gas but dies after a few seconds wondering what could be the problem
Stratus - No-Start/Starts-Then-Stalls Diagnosis 🔎
Got it: starts only with throttle, then dies. After cam/crank sensors, fuel pump, and starter were replaced, we’ll zero in on what the PCM needs to keep the engine running: correct cam/crank sync, adequate fuel pressure, stable idle air control, and no theft/ASD cutout.
Quick questions (just two) ❓
- 🧰 Do you have any current check-engine light codes (even pending)? If yes, list the codes.
- 🛠️ When it dies, does the red “security” light flash, or does the light stay off?
High-probability causes on your Stratus 🎯
- 🧩 Cam/Crank sync or sensor type issue — These engines need correct sensor type and air gap. Aftermarket sensors often cause start-then-die. Wrong spacer/shim or tone wheel damage can cause sync loss after a few seconds.
- ⛽ Fuel pressure low or bleeding off — New pump doesn’t guarantee pressure. The 2.4L needs about 49 psi (regulator in-tank). A pinched line, weak pump, or bad fuel filter/regulator module can cause stall.
- 🌬️ Idle Air Control (IAC) stuck shut — If it only runs with the pedal, the IAC may be stuck or the throttle body is carboned up. IAC = a small valve that controls idle airflow.
- 🔌 Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay drop — If the PCM loses a valid cam/crank signal, it cuts injector/coil power via the ASD. Relay or wiring faults mimic this.
- 🔒 SKIS (factory immobilizer) event — If equipped, a key/security fault can allow a brief start then stall. Watch the security light.
- 💨 Large vacuum leak — Split PCV hose or brake booster hose can cause immediate stall without throttle.
Targeted checks you can do now ✅
- 🧪 Fuel pressure test: At the rail Schrader valve, key-on/engine-crank. You want ~49 psi steady. If much lower or it drops to 0 fast after stall, suspect pump module/filter-regulator or a leaking injector. A fuel pressure gauge is a tool that screws onto the rail valve.
- 🔦 IAC and throttle body: Unplug the IAC at the throttle body, inspect connector pins; remove IAC and clean its pintle and the throttle bore with throttle-body cleaner. Reinstall with a new gasket if torn. A stuck IAC will cause “runs only with pedal.”
- 📏 Cam/Crank sensor specifics:
- Use OEM (Mopar) or NTK/Delphi. Many aftermarket sensors on this engine cause stalls.
- Inspect cam sensor spacer/paper gasket—this sets air gap. Missing/extra thickness changes signal.
- Check the crank sensor O-ring seating; if not fully seated, the air gap is wrong.
- Inspect the crank sensor harness near the exhaust/axle for rub-through. A short opens when the engine moves.
- 🧰 ASD relay test: In the PDC (under-hood fuse/relay box), swap the ASD relay with another identical relay (like A/C clutch) for a quick check. If it now runs, replace the ASD relay.
- 🔍 Vacuum leak sweep: With it briefly running, listen for a loud hiss. Check the big hose from the intake to the brake booster, and the PCV hose at the rear of the valve cover. Pinch a suspect hose—if idle improves, that hose leaks.
- 🧠 Scan live data (simple checks):
- Look for Engine RPM while cranking (should read ~200–300 RPM). If zero, crank sensor/signal issue.
- Check Short/Long Term Fuel Trim at idle (if it will idle). Massive positive trims = vacuum leak/low pressure.
- Watch TPS percentage at rest (should be ~0–2%). If it reads high, the PCM may not control idle.
If you want me to guide the next step 🧭
- 🛑 Safety: Work in a ventilated area, chock wheels, and keep sparks away from fuel.
- Reply with your codes and whether the security light flashes. I’ll give you exact next steps (including which wire pins to test) for your Stratus.
p0340 was the code I got
Stratus - P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit 📟
P0340 on your Stratus means the PCM isn’t seeing a valid cam signal. That alone can cause “starts only with pedal, then stalls.” We’ll verify power/ground/signal, sensor type, and air gap.
Quick check (1 more question) ❓
- 🧰 Is the cam sensor you installed OEM (Mopar/NTK/Delphi) or a no-name aftermarket?
What commonly triggers P0340 on your Stratus 🎯
- 🧩 Wrong/failed sensor or incorrect paper spacer gasket at the cam sensor setting the air gap wrong.
- 🔌 Open circuit, short to ground, or 5V reference fault in the 3-wire cam sensor harness near the valve cover/upper timing cover.
- ⚙️ Damaged cam sprocket tone window or timing belt jumped a tooth (less common but possible).
Do these tests in order ✅
- 🔄 Clear and confirm: Clear codes, crank 5–10 seconds, re-scan. If P0340 resets immediately while cranking, it’s circuit/sensor. If it returns after it fires, check air gap/timing.
- 🧪 Swap test (fast): If you used a budget sensor, try an OEM Mopar or NTK cam sensor with the correct paper spacer. Aftermarket units often set P0340 on these 2.4L engines.
- 🔧 Connector and spacer:
- Unplug cam sensor at the end of the cylinder head (driver side of head). Inspect pins for spread/corrosion; make sure the paper spacer gasket is present and not doubled. That thin paper also sets the air gap.
- Ensure the sensor is fully seated and the bolt snug (do not over-tighten).
- 📏 Voltage checks (key ON, backprobe): Use a digital multimeter. The cam sensor is a 3‑wire Hall sensor.
- 5V reference (orange wire): ~5.0 V to sensor.
- Ground (black/light blue): ≈0 V with good continuity to battery negative.
- Signal (tan/yellow): ~0–5 V square-wave while cranking; on a meter you’ll usually see it toggle between ~0.3–4.8 V or average ~2–3 V during crank.
- 🧵 Wiggle test: While cranking, gently wiggle the cam sensor harness where it bends by the timing cover. If it starts/ dies differently, repair that section. These wires often break inside the insulation.
- ⛓️ Timing belt sanity check: If the belt is loose/jumped, the cam signal won’t align with the crank. Remove the top timing cover, verify the belt is tight and the cam/crank marks align at TDC. If off a tooth, correct the belt before further testing.
If you have a scan tool with live data 🧠
- 🌀 Watch Engine RPM while cranking: if 0, crank sensor/ASD issue; if RPM is present but P0340 sets, focus on cam circuit.
- 🔁 Check Cam/Crank Sync PID (if available). It should read “Synced” during crank/run. “No” or “Intermittent” = air gap/wiring/timing.
Likely fixes based on experience 🛠️
- ✅ Replace cam sensor with Mopar/NTK and ensure the paper spacer gasket is installed once (not missing or doubled).
- ✅ Repair cam sensor harness section near the connector if brittle; solder/heat-shrink splices only.
- ✅ Correct timing belt alignment if marks don’t line up; inspect the belt and tensioner. These 2.4L belts are service items and can jump.
Next step from you ▶️
- 📣 Tell me the brand of the cam sensor and whether the paper spacer is there. I’ll tailor the exact pinout colors and torque, plus any replacement steps you need.
