How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2015 Subaru Outback (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step tensioner release, belt routing, required tools/parts, and safety checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2015 Subaru Outback (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step tensioner release, belt routing, required tools/parts, and safety checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Outback - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt (also called the accessory drive belt) spins the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it is mostly about safely relieving the automatic belt tensioner, swapping the belt, and confirming the routing is correct.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine (hot fans and pulleys can injure you).
- ⚠️ Keep fingers, hair, and clothing away from pulleys at all times.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine until tools are cleared and the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.
- ⚠️ If you raise the front of your Outback, support it with jack stands (never rely on a jack).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 14mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive breaker bar
- Flashlight
- Trim clip tool
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🧊 Let the engine cool completely, then open the hood.
- 📌 Locate the belt routing diagram (often on a sticker near the radiator support). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removing the belt.
- 🧰 If access is tight from the top, plan to raise the front and remove the lower splash shield using a trim clip tool.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Get access to the front of the engine
- Use safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
- If equipped, remove the plastic engine cover by releasing its retainers (some pull upward from rubber grommets; some use clips). Use a trim clip tool as needed.
- If you need more room, raise the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), and set wheel chocks.
Step 2: Identify the belt tensioner and routing
- Use a flashlight to find the automatic belt tensioner (it has a spring-loaded arm and a smooth pulley).
- Confirm the belt path using the routing sticker or your photo. Photo now prevents wrong routing later.
Step 3: Relieve belt tension
- Place a 14mm socket on the belt tensioner pulley bolt.
- Attach a 3/8" drive ratchet or 3/8" drive breaker bar (a breaker bar is a longer handle for extra leverage).
- Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve tension, then hold it in the released position.
- While holding tension off, slide the belt off the easiest top pulley (commonly the alternator pulley).
- Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position (don’t let it snap back).
Step 4: Remove the old belt
- Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys by hand.
- Compare the old belt to the new one (length and rib count should match).
Step 5: Install and route the new belt
- Route the new belt around the pulleys following the routing diagram/photo.
- Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in ribbed pulleys, and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
- Leave the easiest top pulley for last (often the alternator) so you can slip it on with the tensioner released.
Step 6: Apply tension and seat the belt
- Use the 14mm socket with the 3/8" drive ratchet or 3/8" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and relieve tension again.
- Slip the belt fully onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Use a flashlight to inspect every pulley: the belt ribs must be perfectly centered in the grooves.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Double-check the belt routing one last time before starting.
- ✅ Start the engine and watch the belt for 20–30 seconds; it should run straight with no wobble or squeal.
- ✅ Turn A/C on and off and listen for noise changes; shut the engine off and re-check belt seating if anything sounds off.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $150-$280 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)
You Save: $90-$220 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















