🔧 Outback - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. A worn tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Outback with jack stands before working underneath or near the wheel area.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone; it can fail or roll.
• ⚠️ The steering system affects vehicle control. If anything feels loose after repair, do not drive until corrected.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing a tie rod end.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 17mm open-end wrench
• 19mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer 16 oz
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Outback on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 📏 Keep the steering wheel centered before starting.
• 🖊️ Mark the tie rod position before removal to keep the alignment close enough for a careful drive to the alignment shop.
• 🔍 A “castle nut” is a nut with slots cut into the top so a cotter pin can lock it in place.
• 🔍 A “cotter pin” is a small bent metal pin that prevents the nut from loosening.
• 🔍 A “tie rod end puller” separates the tapered tie rod stud from the steering knuckle without damaging nearby parts.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Do this while the tire is still on the ground so it does not spin.
• Loosen only; do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side pinch welds or approved front support points.
• Lower your Outback gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum lightly touching as a backup support.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts fully.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Locate and Mark the Tie Rod End

• Find the outer tie rod end at the rear side of the steering knuckle.
• Use a paint marker to mark the threads where the outer tie rod end meets the inner tie rod.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the lock nut to the center of the tie rod stud.
• Write this measurement down before removing anything.
• This helps keep alignment close.

Step 5: Loosen the Tie Rod Lock Nut

• Spray the tie rod threads and lock nut with penetrating oil.
• Use a 22mm open-end wrench on the lock nut.
• Use a 17mm open-end wrench on the tie rod end flats if needed to hold it steady.
• Loosen the lock nut about 1/4 turn only.
• Do not move it far from your paint mark.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin.
• Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut.
• If it breaks, use the needle-nose pliers to remove all leftover pieces.

Step 7: Remove the Castle Nut

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the tie rod end castle nut from the steering knuckle.
• If the stud spins, use a 19mm wrench while applying light upward pressure under the tie rod end with the ball joint separator tool.

Step 8: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller over the steering knuckle and tie rod stud.
• Tighten the puller with a 19mm socket until the stud pops loose.
• If needed, tap the side of the steering knuckle with a hammer 16 oz while the puller is tight.
• Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud if you are comparing the old and new parts.

Step 9: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End

• Turn the old outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns as it comes off.
• Write the number down.
• Leave the lock nut close to the original paint mark.
• Counting turns protects your alignment.

Step 10: Install the New Tie Rod End

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns counted during removal.
• Use the tape measure to compare your original measurement.
• Adjust slightly by hand until the measurement and paint mark are close.

Step 11: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the castle nut to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
• Continue tightening only enough to line up the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole.
• Do not loosen the nut to align the hole.

Step 12: Install the New Cotter Pin

• Slide the new cotter pin through the tie rod stud hole.
• Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut.
• Make sure the pin cannot fall out.

Step 13: Tighten the Lock Nut

• Hold the tie rod end steady with a 17mm open-end wrench.
• Use a 22mm open-end wrench to tighten the lock nut against the outer tie rod end.
• Tighten firmly without moving the tie rod end position.
• If using a crowfoot adapter with your torque wrench, tighten the lock nut to Torque to 83 Nm (61 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back onto the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your Outback slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or scraping.
• ✅ Take a slow test drive around the block only if the steering feels normal.
• ✅ Keep speed low until the alignment is checked.
• ✅ Schedule a professional front wheel alignment immediately after replacement.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 per side (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 per side (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $120-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours plus alignment time.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.