🔧 Rear Window Regulators - Replacement

This repair replaces the rear door window regulator assemblies in your Outback. The regulator is the mechanism inside the door that raises and lowers the glass; when it fails, the rear window may drop, move crooked, grind, or stop working.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours for both rear doors

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging rear door electrical connectors.
• ⚠️ Support the glass with painter’s tape before loosening the regulator. The glass can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Wear cut-resistant gloves because the inside edges of the rear door shell can be sharp.
• ⚠️ Keep the ignition OFF while your hands are inside the door.
• ⚠️ Do not pull hard on the trim panel. Hidden clips and cable connections can break.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• Ratchet with 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch socket extension with 3/8-inch drive
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Plastic trim removal tool set
• Panel clip removal pliers
• Needle-nose pliers
• Torque wrench inch-pound range
• Painter’s tape 1-inch wide
• Work light
• Cut-resistant gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear left window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
• Rear right window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
• Rear door trim panel clips - Qty: 6-10
• Butyl sealant strip - Qty: 1 roll

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Turn the ignition ON and lower the rear window until the glass-to-regulator bolts are visible through the access holes. If the window will not move, continue carefully and support the glass where it is.
• Turn the ignition OFF after positioning the glass.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Wait 60 seconds before unplugging door connectors.
• The moisture barrier is the plastic sheet behind the trim panel. It keeps water out of the cabin, so reuse or reseal it carefully.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Rear Door Switch Panel

• Use a plastic trim removal tool to gently lift the rear power window switch panel from the armrest.
• Pull the switch panel upward by hand once the clips release.
• Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to press the connector lock tab, then unplug the switch connector.
• Tip: Pry slowly to save clips.

Step 2: Remove Rear Door Trim Screws

• Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to open the small screw cover behind the inside door handle.
• Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove the screw behind the inside door handle.
• Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove the screw in the pull handle area.
• Set the screws aside in order.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Door Trim Panel

• Use a plastic trim removal tool at the lower edge of the trim panel to start releasing the clips.
• Use panel clip removal pliers to release the remaining clips around the sides and bottom.
• Lift the panel straight upward by hand to unhook it from the window ledge.
• Use needle-nose pliers to release the inside handle cable ends if they do not come off by hand.
• Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to unlock and unplug any remaining electrical connectors.

Step 4: Peel Back the Moisture Barrier

• Use gloved hands to slowly peel the plastic moisture barrier away from the rear door.
• Use a plastic trim removal tool to help separate the sticky butyl sealant without tearing the plastic.
• Fold the barrier upward and secure it with painter’s tape.
• Do not leave gaps during reassembly, or water may leak into the cabin.

Step 5: Support the Rear Door Glass

• Use painter’s tape 1-inch wide to tape the glass to the upper door frame.
• Apply at least 3 long strips from the outside glass, over the top of the door frame, and onto the inside glass.
• If the glass is loose, lift it fully closed by hand before taping it.
• Tip: Extra tape prevents surprises.

Step 6: Disconnect the Rear Window Motor

• Use a work light to find the window motor connector inside the rear door.
• Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to press the connector lock tab.
• Pull the connector straight off by hand. Do not pull on the wiring.

Step 7: Separate the Glass from the Regulator

• Use a 10mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and ratchet to loosen the glass mounting bolts through the access holes.
• Do not fully remove the bolts unless the new regulator requires it.
• Slide the glass fully upward by hand and re-secure it with painter’s tape.
• If the regulator is stuck and the bolts are not visible, use a 10mm socket to loosen the regulator mounting bolts, then carefully shift the regulator until the glass bolts can be reached.

Step 8: Remove the Old Rear Window Regulator

• Use a 10mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and ratchet to remove the rear regulator rail mounting bolts.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the motor mounting bolts if the motor is separate from the regulator assembly.
• Hold the regulator with one hand while removing the final bolt.
• Fold the regulator slightly by hand and remove it through the largest door opening.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Window Regulator

• Guide the new regulator into the rear door opening by hand.
• Start every mounting bolt by hand before tightening. This prevents crossed threads.
• Use a 10mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and ratchet to snug the regulator mounting bolts.
• Use a torque wrench inch-pound range with a 10mm socket to tighten the regulator mounting bolts to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Reconnect the rear window motor connector by hand until it clicks.

Step 10: Reattach the Rear Door Glass

• Carefully remove enough painter’s tape to lower the glass by hand onto the regulator clamps.
• Make sure the glass sits evenly in the front and rear run channels. The run channels are the felt-lined tracks the glass slides in.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to snug the glass mounting bolts.
• Use a torque wrench inch-pound range with a 10mm socket to tighten the glass mounting bolts to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 11: Test the Rear Window Before Reassembly

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Temporarily plug in the rear window switch by hand.
• Turn the ignition ON.
• Use the rear door switch to move the glass down and up slowly.
• Use a work light to watch for tilting, binding, or cable noise.
• If the glass binds, loosen the glass bolts with a 10mm socket, center the glass by hand, and retighten to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the Moisture Barrier

• Turn ignition OFF and disconnect the negative battery cable again using a 10mm socket.
• Press the moisture barrier back onto the original sealant by hand.
• If the sealant is weak, apply butyl sealant strip around the opening and press the barrier into place.
• Check that the wiring harness sits on the cabin side of the barrier where it belongs.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Door Trim Panel

• Reconnect the inside handle cable ends by hand or with needle-nose pliers.
• Reconnect all electrical connectors by hand until they click.
• Hang the upper edge of the trim panel onto the window ledge by hand.
• Line up the trim clips with the door holes.
• Press around the panel edges by hand until each clip snaps in.
• Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to reinstall the handle screw and pull handle screw.
• Snap the screw cover closed by hand.
• Plug in the switch panel by hand and press it back into the armrest.

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Rear Door

• Use the same steps and tools for the opposite rear door.
• Keep the left and right regulators separate because they are side-specific.
• Replace broken trim clips before reinstalling the panel.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Turn ignition ON and test both rear windows from their own switches and from the driver master switch.
• Run each rear window fully down and fully up at least 3 times.
• Confirm the window lock switch on the driver door still disables the rear switches.
• Check each rear door for proper lock, unlock, and inside handle operation.
• Spray a light stream of water over the outside glass area and check inside for moisture leaks at the door panel.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$950 for both rear regulators, including parts and labor

DIY Cost: $160-$380 for both rear regulators and small supplies

You Save: $440-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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