How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2019 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2019 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Outback - Ignition Coil Replacement
The ignition coils on your Outback sit directly on top of the spark plugs and send high voltage to fire each cylinder. Replacing them can help fix misfires, rough idle, poor acceleration, and check-engine codes related to specific cylinders.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting. The cylinder heads and exhaust areas can burn you.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging ignition coils. This prevents accidental electrical shorts.
- ⚠️ Work on one coil at a time if you are new. This helps avoid mixing up connectors.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on the wiring. Always release the connector tab first.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. Dirt can fall into the engine if a spark plug is removed later.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 3-inch extension
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- Torque wrench, inch-pound range
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 tube
Tip: Replace only the failed coil unless all coils are high-mileage or original.
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Outback on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and allow the engine to cool fully.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery terminal.
- If replacing a specific cylinder’s coil, label the new coil box or old coil location before removing anything.
- A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a measured force so you do not strip small engine bolts.
- Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease used inside rubber boots to help seal out moisture and make future removal easier.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove Engine Cover Area Obstructions
- Use your hands to lift off any loose plastic engine cover if equipped.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic clips holding any small intake duct or splash shield pieces that block coil access.
- Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket if a small bracket or intake support blocks the coil you are replacing.
- Set clips and bolts in a small cup so they do not get lost.
Step 2: Locate the Ignition Coils
- The ignition coils are mounted on the sides of the engine, two per side, because your Outback uses a flat engine layout.
- Each coil has one electrical connector and one small mounting bolt.
- Use a shop towel to wipe loose dirt away from the coil area before removal.
- Clean first, remove second.
Step 3: Unplug the Coil Connector
- Use your fingers to press the release tab on the ignition coil electrical connector.
- If the connector is stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver gently on the connector lock only. Do not pry on the wires.
- Pull the connector straight back from the coil.
- If space is tight, use needle-nose pliers only to help grip the connector body, not the wiring.
Step 4: Remove the Ignition Coil Bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3-inch extension to remove the coil mounting bolt.
- If the rear coils are tight to reach, use the 6-inch extension for better hand clearance.
- Keep the bolt with the old coil so it does not fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the Old Ignition Coil
- Twist the coil gently by hand to loosen the rubber boot from the spark plug.
- Pull the coil straight out from the cylinder head.
- If the coil feels stuck, keep twisting gently while pulling. Do not force it sideways.
- Inspect the old coil boot for oil, cracks, swelling, or burn marks.
Step 6: Prepare the New Ignition Coil
- Compare the new ignition coil to the old one. The connector, bolt hole, and boot length should match.
- Apply a small pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot opening.
- Do not put grease on the metal electrical terminal inside the coil.
- A tiny amount is enough.
Step 7: Install the New Ignition Coil
- Push the new coil straight into the spark plug well by hand.
- You should feel the boot seat onto the spark plug.
- Install the coil mounting bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the coil bolt to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
- Push the electrical connector onto the ignition coil until it clicks.
- Gently tug the connector body by hand to confirm it is locked.
- Repeat Steps 3-8 for any other ignition coils being replaced.
Step 9: Reinstall Removed Brackets or Ducts
- Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to reinstall any bracket or intake duct hardware removed earlier.
- Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall plastic push clips.
- If reinstalling small 10mm engine-bay bolts, tighten snugly by hand with the ratchet. Do not over-tighten plastic or small brackets.
Step 10: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery terminal.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the terminal nut until snug.
- Do not over-tighten the battery terminal because it can crack.
✅ After Repair
- Start your Outback and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
- Listen for smooth idle and make sure there are no warning lights flashing.
- If the check engine light was on before, a scan tool may be needed to clear stored misfire codes after the repair.
- Take a short 10-minute test drive with gentle acceleration.
- If the check engine light flashes during the test drive, stop driving and recheck the coil connector and bolt installation.
- Your clock and auto window function may need resetting after battery disconnect. If the driver window auto function does not work, hold the window switch fully down for 3 seconds, then fully up for 3 seconds.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$550 per coil or $500-$1,100 for all four coils, depending on labor and parts quality.
DIY Cost: $45-$130 per coil, or $180-$520 for all four coils.
You Save: $100-$580 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















