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2017 Subaru Outback
2016 - 2019 Subaru Outback
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I have a P0300 engine code

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How to Replace Ignition Coils 2015-2019 Subaru Outback 2.5L H4

How to Replace Ignition Coils 2015-2019 Subaru Outback 2.5L H4

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
6"
6"
Extension
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016-2019 Subaru Outback 3.6L

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, misfire codes, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016-2019 Subaru Outback 3.6L

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, misfire codes, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Ignition Coil Replacement

Replacing the ignition coils on your Outback means removing the engine cover, disconnecting each coil connector, unbolting the coils, and installing new coils in the same positions. On the 3.6L flat-six engine, access is tight because the coils sit on the sides of the engine near the frame rails, so patience matters more than force.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting; ignition coils sit near hot cylinder heads and exhaust components.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition components to reduce the chance of electrical shorts.
  • ⚠️ Work on one coil at a time so connectors and coils do not get mixed up.
  • ⚠️ Do not pull on the wiring harness; release the connector lock and pull on the plastic connector body.
  • ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing before repair, avoid driving until fixed because misfires can damage the catalytic converters.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3-inch extension
  • 6-inch extension
  • 3/8-inch drive universal joint
  • Torque wrench inch-pound range
  • Flat-blade trim tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Magnetic pickup tool
  • Flashlight
  • OBD2 scan tool
  • Battery terminal wrench 10mm
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6 as needed
  • Spark plug tube seal inspection only - Qty: replace only if oil is found in plug wells
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Outback on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Let the engine cool for at least 30-60 minutes.
  • Open the hood and use a flashlight to locate the ignition coils on both sides of the engine.
  • Use the OBD2 scan tool to read misfire codes before starting. Codes P0301-P0306 identify which cylinder is misfiring.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm battery terminal wrench. Wait 2 minutes before unplugging coils.
  • An OBD2 scan tool is a small diagnostic tool that plugs into the port under the dashboard and reads engine fault codes.
  • A universal joint is a wobble-style socket adapter that helps reach bolts at an angle.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Read and Record Misfire Codes

  • Use the OBD2 scan tool at the diagnostic port under the driver-side dash.
  • Record any codes such as P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, or P0306.
  • Clear codes only after the repair is complete.
  • Write codes down first.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm battery terminal wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Lift the negative cable off the battery post and position it so it cannot spring back.
  • No torque is needed for removal.

Step 3: Remove the Engine Cover

  • Use both hands to pull the plastic engine cover upward from its rubber mounting grommets.
  • If a grommet sticks, use a flat-blade trim tool gently around the edge.
  • Set the cover aside in a clean area.

Step 4: Identify the Ignition Coils

  • Use a flashlight to look along each side of the engine.
  • Each ignition coil is a small rectangular electrical part bolted into the cylinder head with one electrical connector.
  • The flat-six layout has three coils per side.
  • Work on one coil at a time to avoid confusion.

Step 5: Create Working Room if Needed

  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove small brackets or harness retainers that block access to the coil you are replacing.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to release plastic wire clips if they are attached to nearby brackets.
  • Do not stretch or sharply bend the wiring harness.
  • Reinstall small bracket bolts later and torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs) unless a different bracket spec is marked.

Step 6: Unplug the Ignition Coil Connector

  • Press the connector release tab with your thumb or a small flat-blade trim tool.
  • Pull the connector straight back by the plastic body.
  • If it is stuck, wiggle it gently while pressing the tab.
  • Do not pry hard on the connector lock because old plastic can crack.

Step 7: Remove the Coil Retaining Bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and extension to remove the ignition coil retaining bolt.
  • Use a 3/8-inch drive universal joint if the frame rail limits straight access.
  • Use a magnetic pickup tool if the bolt drops into a tight area.
  • Keep the bolt with the old coil until the new coil is installed.

Step 8: Remove the Old Ignition Coil

  • Twist the coil gently left and right by hand to break the rubber boot loose.
  • Pull the coil straight out of the spark plug well.
  • If space is tight, rotate the coil slightly as you guide it out.
  • Inspect the coil boot for oil, burn marks, cracking, or white carbon tracking lines.
  • Never yank the coil.

Step 9: Inspect the Spark Plug Well

  • Use a flashlight to look into the spark plug well.
  • If you see oil inside the well, the spark plug tube seal may be leaking and should be repaired before installing a new coil.
  • If you see moisture, dry the area before installing the coil.
  • Do not spray liquid cleaner into the spark plug well.

Step 10: Prepare the New Ignition Coil

  • Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the coil boot.
  • Dielectric grease is a non-conductive silicone grease that helps keep moisture out and prevents the rubber boot from sticking.
  • Do not fill the boot with grease; a thin film is enough.

Step 11: Install the New Ignition Coil

  • Slide the new coil into the spark plug well by hand.
  • Press down until you feel the boot seat onto the spark plug.
  • Align the coil mounting tab with the bolt hole.
  • Start the retaining bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.

Step 12: Tighten the Coil Bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, extension, and torque wrench inch-pound range.
  • Tighten the ignition coil retaining bolt to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
  • Do not overtighten; the bolt threads into aluminum.

Step 13: Reconnect the Coil Connector

  • Push the electrical connector onto the coil until it clicks.
  • Gently tug the connector body to confirm it is locked.
  • Use the flashlight to verify the connector is fully seated.

Step 14: Repeat for Additional Coils

  • Use the same steps for any other coils being replaced.
  • Use the 10mm socket, extensions, universal joint, and ratchet as needed for each coil location.
  • If replacing all six, replace them one at a time from front to rear on each side.

Step 15: Reinstall Removed Brackets and Engine Cover

  • Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to reinstall any removed harness brackets.
  • Tighten small bracket bolts to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).
  • Align the engine cover with its rubber grommets and press down by hand until seated.

Step 16: Reconnect the Battery

  • Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm battery terminal wrench to tighten the clamp.
  • Tighten snugly; do not crush the terminal.
  • Typical battery terminal torque is 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Start your Outback and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
  • Listen for smooth idle and check that the check engine light is not flashing.
  • Use the OBD2 scan tool to clear stored misfire codes after confirming the engine runs smoothly.
  • Test drive gently for 10-15 minutes, including light acceleration.
  • Re-scan for codes after the test drive.
  • If the same cylinder misfire returns, inspect the spark plug, fuel injector, compression, and wiring for that cylinder.
  • After battery disconnect, reset the clock and driver window auto-up function if needed. Hold the window switch down fully, then up fully for several seconds.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$950 (parts + labor, depending on quantity replaced)

DIY Cost: $45-$420 (parts only, depending on quantity replaced)

You Save: $150-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.


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