🔧 Outback - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

Assumption: This guide covers the front lower control arm bushings, the most common suspension bushings replaced on your Outback.

The front lower control arm uses rubber bushings to isolate road vibration and keep the wheel aligned. On your Outback, the practical DIY method is replacing the complete front lower control arm assembly because pressing bushings in and out requires a hydraulic press and exact support fixtures.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Outback with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held by a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The front lower control arm affects alignment. A professional wheel alignment is required after this repair.
• ⚠️ Do not fully tighten the control arm bushing bolts while the suspension is hanging. This can twist and damage the new bushings.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves. Suspension parts can release dirt, rust, and sharp debris.
• ⚠️ If any ball joint boot is torn, replace the control arm or ball joint hardware as needed before driving.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer 2-pound
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm assembly pair - Qty: 1 pair if replacing both sides
• Front lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 hardware set per side if corroded or damaged
• Front sway bar end link nut - Qty: 1 per side if removed or damaged

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on level ground.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower control arm bolts, ball joint pinch bolt, and sway bar end link nut.
• A ball joint is the pivot joint that lets the steering knuckle move while the control arm supports the wheel.
• A bushing is a rubber mount that lets the suspension move while reducing noise and vibration.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet handle to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the front wheel by hand and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark around the front and rear control arm mounting points.
• This helps you place the new arm close to the original position.
• Still get an alignment afterward.

Step 5: Disconnect the Sway Bar End Link if Needed

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the sway bar end link nut from the lower control arm if it blocks arm removal.
• A sway bar end link is the small link that connects the anti-roll bar to the suspension arm.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct wrench flats and remove the nut with a 17mm wrench.

Step 6: Remove the Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut from the steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the metal part that holds the wheel bearing and turns with the steering.
• If the bolt is stuck, apply penetrating oil and tap it gently with a dead blow hammer 2-pound.

Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator tool to separate the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
• Do not pry against the rubber ball joint boot.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully on the control arm only if more downward movement is needed.
• Protect the rubber boot.

Step 8: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Support the control arm by hand as the bolt slides out.

Step 9: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 22mm socket and 22mm wrench to remove the rear lower control arm bushing bolt and nut.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only as needed to relieve pressure on the bolt.
• Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle by hand.

Step 10: Compare the Old and New Control Arm

• Place the old and new control arms side by side on the ground.
• Confirm the bushing locations, ball joint position, and sway bar link mount match.
• Check that the new ball joint boot is not torn or twisted.

Step 11: Install the New Control Arm Loosely

• Position the new lower control arm into the subframe by hand.
• Install the rear bushing bolt and nut by hand first.
• Install the front bushing bolt and nut by hand next.
• Do not fully tighten these bolts yet.

Step 12: Reconnect the Ball Joint

• Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to move the control arm if needed.
• Install the new ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 14mm socket to tighten the pinch bolt to Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Sway Bar End Link

• Insert the sway bar end link stud into the lower control arm.
• Install the nut by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 17mm socket to tighten the nut to Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Load the Suspension Before Final Tightening

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the outer lower control arm area.
• Raise the control arm until the suspension sits close to normal ride height.
• Normal ride height means the arm angle looks similar to when the vehicle is sitting on the ground.
• Keep the vehicle supported by jack stands while doing this.

Step 15: Tighten the Control Arm Bolts

• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 19mm socket to tighten the front control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 22mm socket to tighten the rear control arm bushing bolt to Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• Lower and remove the floor jack from under the control arm.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheel

• Install the wheel by hand.
• Thread the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet handle to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Outback fully to the ground.

Step 18: Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Tighten each lug nut to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce the front of your Outback gently by hand and listen for clunks.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for knocking, popping, or rubbing noises.
• ✅ Keep the steering wheel straight and check if the vehicle pulls left or right.
• ✅ Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately after replacing control arms or suspension bushings.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ If the ABS, traction control, or steering warning light appears, stop and inspect for disturbed wiring near the wheel area.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 for both front lower control arms (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 for both front lower control arms (parts only)

You Save: $370-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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