How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2015-2019 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2015-2019 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Outback - Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement
This repair replaces the front lower ball joints on your Outback. The ball joint connects the front lower control arm to the steering knuckle, allowing the wheel to steer and move with the suspension.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
- ⚠️ Support your Outback with jack stands before working underneath or near the suspension.
- ⚠️ The front suspension is heavy. Keep fingers clear when separating the ball joint from the knuckle.
- ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the CV axle threads or ball joint stud.
- ⚠️ If the ball joint pinch bolt is badly rusted, go slowly. Subaru pinch bolts can seize and snap in the steering knuckle.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 14mm wrench
- 17mm wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Pickle fork ball joint separator (specialty)
- Ball peen hammer
- Dead blow hammer
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
- Anti-seize compound
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front lower ball joint - Qty: 1 per side
- Front lower ball joints - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 1 per side
- Ball joint castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
- Ball joint cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🔩 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on the ball joint pinch bolt, castle nut, and lower control arm area. Let it soak for several minutes.
- 📌 A ball joint separator is a tool that presses the tapered joint apart without damaging nearby parts.
- 📌 A pickle fork is a wedge-shaped separator. It works well, but it can damage the old ball joint boot.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen nuts before lifting.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point to raise your Outback.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the approved front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
- Give the vehicle a light shake to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as a backup safety support.
Step 4: Clean and Mark the Ball Joint Area
- Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the ball joint pinch bolt area on the steering knuckle.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the ball joint and control arm area for reference.
- Spray penetrating oil on the pinch bolt and the ball joint stud nut.
Step 5: Remove the Cotter Pin and Castle Nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint stud.
- Use a 19mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the castle nut from the bottom of the ball joint.
- If the stud spins, apply upward pressure with a pry bar 18-inch while loosening the nut.
Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Lower Control Arm
- Install the ball joint separator (specialty) between the lower control arm and ball joint stud.
- Tighten the separator until the taper pops loose.
- If using a pickle fork ball joint separator (specialty), tap it with a ball peen hammer until the joint separates.
- The pop sound is normal.
Step 7: Remove the Knuckle Pinch Bolt
- Use a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to remove the pinch bolt and nut from the steering knuckle.
- If the bolt is stuck, add penetrating oil and work it slowly back and forth with the 14mm socket.
- Do not force a badly seized bolt. Snapping this bolt can make the repair much harder.
Step 8: Remove the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle
- Use a flat blade screwdriver to carefully open the pinch slot slightly.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch to press the lower control arm downward.
- Use a dead blow hammer to tap the side of the steering knuckle while pulling the ball joint out.
- Remove the old ball joint from the vehicle.
Step 9: Prepare the New Ball Joint
- Compare the new front lower ball joint to the old one before installation.
- Use a wire brush to clean the bore in the steering knuckle.
- Apply a very thin coat of anti-seize compound to the outside of the new ball joint where it fits into the knuckle.
- Do not put anti-seize on the tapered stud or threads.
Step 10: Install the New Ball Joint into the Steering Knuckle
- Slide the new ball joint fully into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Use a dead blow hammer only if light tapping is needed.
- Make sure the groove in the ball joint lines up with the pinch bolt hole.
- Install the new pinch bolt and nut using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.
- Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Connect the Ball Joint to the Lower Control Arm
- Use a pry bar 18-inch to guide the lower control arm into position.
- Insert the ball joint stud into the lower control arm.
- Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the nut.
- Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
- Continue tightening only enough to align the cotter pin hole. Do not loosen the nut to line it up.
Step 12: Install the Cotter Pin
- Insert the new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud.
- Use needle-nose pliers to bend the cotter pin ends around the nut.
- Confirm the cotter pin cannot fall out.
Step 13: Reinstall the Wheel
- Place the wheel back on the hub.
- Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Lower your Outback fully to the ground.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for clunks or binding.
- ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for knocking, popping, or wandering.
- ✅ Recheck the pinch bolt, castle nut cotter pin, and lug nuts after the test drive.
- ✅ Get a front wheel alignment after replacing ball joints. Suspension work can change alignment angles.
- ✅ If both sides are worn, replace both front lower ball joints as a pair.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$700 per side (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$130 per side (parts only)
You Save: $250-$570 per side by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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