🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

The engine mounts hold the engine in place and absorb vibration so it does not shake the body of your Outback. Replacing them requires safely supporting the engine from underneath, removing the mount fasteners, slightly lifting the engine, and installing the new mounts.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Outback supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a floor jack and wood block before removing any engine mount fasteners.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan without a wide wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Lift the engine only enough to unload the mounts; excessive lifting can damage exhaust, hoses, wiring, and CVT mounts.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near the lower engine area.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the starter, exhaust, or engine harness areas.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm wrench
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive extension 6-inch
• 1/2-inch drive extension 6-inch
• Universal joint socket adapter 3/8-inch
• Universal joint socket adapter 1/2-inch
• Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver medium
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount nuts and bolts - Qty: As needed if corroded or damaged
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on a flat, solid surface.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine and exhaust cool completely.
• Open the hood and inspect the upper engine area for tight hoses or wiring before lifting the engine.
• Spray penetrating oil on the engine mount fasteners from underneath before starting.
• A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen tight bolts with more leverage.
• A universal joint adapter lets a socket bend slightly so you can reach bolts at an angle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal nut.
• Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot touch the terminal.
• Torque on reassembly: battery terminal nut to 5-7 Nm (44-62 in-lbs)

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front pinch weld jack points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.
• Torque on reassembly: splash shield bolts to 7-9 Nm (62-80 in-lbs)

Step 4: Inspect Mount Access

• Use a flashlight to locate the left and right engine mounts at the lower sides of the engine.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount bracket before removal.
• Check the exhaust, wiring, and hoses for anything that may become tight when the engine is lifted.
• Take photos before removing parts.

Step 5: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the floor jack saddle.
• Position the wood block under the reinforced flat area of the engine oil pan.
• Use the floor jack to raise the wood block until it just contacts the oil pan.
• Lift only enough to support the engine, not raise it yet.

Step 6: Loosen the Engine Mount Through-Nuts

• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the lower engine mount nuts, depending on the fastener size installed.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive extension 6-inch and universal joint socket adapter 1/2-inch if access is angled.
• Do not fully remove all mount fasteners until the engine is supported.
• Torque on reassembly: engine mount lower nuts to 50-60 Nm (37-44 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Remove Upper Mount-to-Engine Fasteners

• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive extension 6-inch and universal joint socket adapter 3/8-inch where space is tight.
• Keep left-side and right-side fasteners separated.
• Torque on reassembly: mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 55-65 Nm (41-48 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Lift the Engine Slightly

• Use the floor jack to slowly lift the engine about 10-20 mm.
• Watch the exhaust, radiator hoses, wiring, and CVT area while lifting.
• Stop immediately if anything stretches or binds.
• Lift only enough for the mounts to clear their locating studs.

Step 9: Remove the Old Engine Mounts

• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any remaining mount fasteners.
• Remove one engine mount at a time by hand.
• If a mount is stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver medium to gently pry it loose.
• Do not pry against thin aluminum covers or the oil pan.

Step 10: Compare the New Mounts

• Set the old and new left engine mounts side by side.
• Set the old and new right engine mounts side by side.
• Confirm the studs, brackets, locating pins, and rubber shape match.
• Install each mount on the same side it matches.

Step 11: Install the New Engine Mounts

• Place the new mount into position by hand.
• Start all nuts and bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the mount-to-engine fasteners.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lower mount nuts.
• Do not fully torque the fasteners yet.

Step 12: Lower the Engine Onto the Mounts

• Use the floor jack to lower the engine slowly onto the new mounts.
• Guide the mount studs into their holes by hand if needed.
• Do not force the engine sideways with a pry bar.
• Once the engine weight is resting evenly on both mounts, remove slight pressure from the jack.

Step 13: Torque the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb with the correct 14mm socket or 17mm socket to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 55-65 Nm (41-48 ft-lbs)
• Use a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb with the correct 14mm socket or 17mm socket to tighten the lower engine mount nuts.
• Torque engine mount lower nuts to 50-60 Nm (37-44 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Check Clearance Around the Engine

• Use a flashlight to inspect the exhaust, radiator hoses, wiring harnesses, and CVT area.
• Make sure nothing is pinched, stretched, or touching a hot exhaust part.
• Use your hands to confirm the mounts are seated flat against their brackets.

Step 15: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the splash shield into place by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to install the shield bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lb with a 12mm socket for final tightening.
• Torque splash shield bolts to 7-9 Nm (62-80 in-lbs)

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Outback slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks after the vehicle is fully on the ground.

Step 17: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Make sure the terminal is fully seated on the battery post.
• Torque battery terminal nut to 5-7 Nm (44-62 in-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while watching for abnormal vibration.
• Shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, while holding the brake firmly.
• Listen for clunks or movement when shifting.
• Take a short test drive and check for vibration during acceleration.
• Recheck the engine mount fasteners after the first drive if any clunk or vibration remains.
• If the idle is unstable after reconnecting the battery, let the engine idle with all accessories off for several minutes so the throttle can relearn.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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