🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

The engine mounts support the 3.6L flat-six engine and isolate vibration from the body. Replacing them requires safely supporting the engine from below, removing the lower splash shield, loosening the mount fasteners, lifting the engine slightly, and swapping the mounts one side at a time.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Outback supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Always use jack stands on solid, level ground.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a wide wood block under the oil pan to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine more than necessary. Excess lift can damage exhaust parts, hoses, CV axles, and wiring.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the starter, wiring, and engine ground straps.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch extension
• 6-inch extension
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• Torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
• Torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 12-inch x 12-inch minimum
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Magnetic parts tray
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount nuts and bolts - Qty: As needed, replace corroded or damaged hardware
• Lower splash shield clips - Qty: As needed, replace broken clips

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on a flat surface.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Spray the engine mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark mount/bracket positions before removal. This helps with alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point.
• Raise the front of your Outback high enough to work safely underneath.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side pinch welds or approved support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine later.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic push clips from the lower splash shield.
• Use a 12mm socket or 10mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts, depending on location.
• Remove the lower splash shield by hand and set it aside.
• A splash shield is the plastic panel under the engine that keeps road debris and water away.

Step 3: Inspect Access to Both Engine Mounts

• Use a safety glasses and inspect the left and right lower engine mounts from underneath.
• The engine mounts sit low on each side of the engine where the engine attaches to the front crossmember.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount and bracket before loosening anything.
• If a fastener is rusty, apply more penetrating oil.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 12-inch x 12-inch minimum on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the flat, reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack until the wood block just touches the oil pan.
• Lift only enough to take the engine weight off the mounts.
• Do not dent the oil pan.

Step 5: Loosen the Engine Mount Through-Nuts

• Use a 17mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to loosen the lower mount nuts at the crossmember.
• Use a 17mm combination wrench if space is tight.
• Loosen both left and right mount lower nuts, but do not remove both mounts at the same time.
• Replace one side at a time.

Step 6: Remove the First Engine Mount Fasteners

• Choose one side to replace first.
• Use a 14mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper engine mount bracket bolts.
• Use a 14mm combination wrench where a socket will not fit.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the lower mount nut from the crossmember stud.
• Place all hardware in a magnetic parts tray.

Step 7: Lift the Engine Slightly

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the engine slowly.
• Lift only enough to create clearance for the mount to slide out.
• Watch the radiator hoses, wiring, exhaust, and intake parts while lifting.
• Stop immediately if anything becomes tight or stretched.

Step 8: Remove the Old Engine Mount

• Remove the old mount by hand through the lower access area.
• Use a flathead screwdriver only for gentle guiding if the mount is stuck.
• Do not pry hard against the aluminum engine case or oil pan.
• Compare the old mount to the new left engine mount or right engine mount.

Step 9: Install the New Engine Mount

• Position the new mount by hand with the locating pin and stud aligned to the crossmember.
• Start the upper mount bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Start the lower crossmember nut by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the upper bolts, but do not fully tighten yet.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lower nut, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 10: Repeat for the Other Side

• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the fasteners from the second mount.
• Lift the engine slightly only if needed using the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Remove the old second mount by hand.
• Install the new mount by hand and start all fasteners by hand.

Step 11: Lower the Engine Onto the New Mounts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lower the engine slowly.
• Make sure both mount studs sit centered in the crossmember holes.
• Use a paint marker reference mark to confirm the mounts are aligned.
• Do not force a bolt into place. Realign the engine instead.

Step 12: Torque the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs to tighten the upper mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs to tighten the lower engine mount nuts.
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
• If your replacement hardware uses different nut sizes, use the socket that fits the new hardware and torque to the same specification unless the part maker states otherwise.

Step 13: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Position the lower splash shield by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to install the plastic clips without bending them.
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to reinstall splash shield bolts.
• Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
• Replace any broken clips with lower splash shield clips.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Outback slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks after the vehicle is safely on the ground.

Step 15: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the terminal until it is snug and cannot rotate by hand.
• Do not over-tighten the battery terminal clamp.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• Listen for clunks, rattles, or exhaust contact.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and back to Park.
• Watch for excessive engine movement.
• Take a short test drive on smooth roads first.
• Recheck for loose splash shield clips after the test drive.
• If vibration is worse than before, recheck mount alignment and fastener torque.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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