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2013 Honda Accord
2013 Honda Accord
Sport - Inline 4 2.4L
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How to Replace Rear Shock & Spring Assemblies 2013-2017 Honda Accord

How to Replace Rear Shock & Spring Assemblies 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2013 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install

How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2013 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Accord - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Accord, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (a shock + coil spring together), while the rear uses separate shock absorbers (the spring is separate). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (front + rear)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on a front strut without a spring compressor; the spring is under high tension.
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so you don’t over-stretch the brake hose/ABS wire.
  • ⚠️ After front strut replacement, an alignment is required to prevent pulling and tire wear.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug nut socket 19mm
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Socket 12mm
  • Socket 14mm
  • Socket 17mm
  • Socket 19mm
  • Wrench 14mm
  • Wrench 17mm
  • Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
  • Flat trim tool
  • Pry bar 18"
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front strut-to-knuckle self-locking nuts - Qty: 4
  • Rear upper shock mount nuts - Qty: 4
  • Rear lower shock bolts/nuts - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and chock the rear wheels (if starting on the front).
  • Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the car using a 19mm socket.
  • Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
  • If you are not using complete front strut assemblies: a spring compressor is required. A spring compressor is a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring so it can’t “jump” when disassembled.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm what you’re replacing

  • Decide if you’re doing front struts, rear shocks, or all four.
  • If doing fronts, decide whether you’re installing complete strut assemblies (easier) or swapping springs onto new struts (requires spring compressor (specialty)).
  • Complete assemblies are best for beginners.

Step 2: Lift the car and remove the wheels

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front or rear, then support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheels off.

Step 3: Front strut removal (one side at a time)

  • Unclip/remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket and flat trim tool.
  • Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) end link nut from the strut using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
  • Support the steering knuckle from below with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar 1/2" with 17mm and 19mm sockets.
  • Under the hood, remove the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 4: Front strut disassembly (only if NOT using complete assemblies)

  • Mark the spring and mount orientation with a paint marker so it goes back the same way.
  • Install the spring compressor (specialty) evenly on both sides of the spring and compress until the spring is loose in the seats.
  • Remove the center strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and ratchet 3/8".
  • Transfer the spring and mount to the new strut, then tighten the center nut.
  • Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly.

Step 5: Front strut installation

  • Set the strut into place and hand-thread the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Line up the strut-to-knuckle holes (use a pry bar 18" if needed) and install the bolts/nuts using 17mm and 19mm sockets.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
  • Tighten fasteners to spec using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs:
  • Torque the front upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
  • Torque the front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs)
  • Torque the front stabilizer end link nut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)

  • Open the trunk and pull back the side trunk lining using a flat trim tool to access the shock upper mount nuts.
  • Support the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack.
  • Remove the rear lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
  • Remove the two upper mount nuts inside the trunk using a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the rear shock from under the car.

Step 7: Rear shock installation

  • Install the new rear shock and hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
  • Torque fasteners to spec using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs:
  • Torque the rear upper shock mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
  • Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
  • Reinstall the trunk liner using the flat trim tool.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
  • Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment after replacing the front struts.
  • If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and get aligned before longer driving.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $280-$850 (parts only, depends on complete front assemblies vs struts only)

You Save: $620-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


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