How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2013 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install
How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2013 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install


🔧 Accord - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement
On your Accord, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (a shock + coil spring together), while the rear uses separate shock absorbers (the spring is separate). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (front + rear)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on a front strut without a spring compressor; the spring is under high tension.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so you don’t over-stretch the brake hose/ABS wire.
- ⚠️ After front strut replacement, an alignment is required to prevent pulling and tire wear.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug nut socket 19mm
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Socket 12mm
- Socket 14mm
- Socket 17mm
- Socket 19mm
- Wrench 14mm
- Wrench 17mm
- Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
- Flat trim tool
- Pry bar 18"
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-knuckle self-locking nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear upper shock mount nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear lower shock bolts/nuts - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and chock the rear wheels (if starting on the front).
- Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the car using a 19mm socket.
- Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
- If you are not using complete front strut assemblies: a spring compressor is required. A spring compressor is a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring so it can’t “jump” when disassembled.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm what you’re replacing
- Decide if you’re doing front struts, rear shocks, or all four.
- If doing fronts, decide whether you’re installing complete strut assemblies (easier) or swapping springs onto new struts (requires spring compressor (specialty)).
- Complete assemblies are best for beginners.
Step 2: Lift the car and remove the wheels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front or rear, then support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheels off.
Step 3: Front strut removal (one side at a time)
- Unclip/remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket and flat trim tool.
- Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) end link nut from the strut using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
- Support the steering knuckle from below with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar 1/2" with 17mm and 19mm sockets.
- Under the hood, remove the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
Step 4: Front strut disassembly (only if NOT using complete assemblies)
- Mark the spring and mount orientation with a paint marker so it goes back the same way.
- Install the spring compressor (specialty) evenly on both sides of the spring and compress until the spring is loose in the seats.
- Remove the center strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and ratchet 3/8".
- Transfer the spring and mount to the new strut, then tighten the center nut.
- Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly.
Step 5: Front strut installation
- Set the strut into place and hand-thread the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Line up the strut-to-knuckle holes (use a pry bar 18" if needed) and install the bolts/nuts using 17mm and 19mm sockets.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
- Tighten fasteners to spec using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs:
- Torque the front upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
- Torque the front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs)
- Torque the front stabilizer end link nut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)
- Open the trunk and pull back the side trunk lining using a flat trim tool to access the shock upper mount nuts.
- Support the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack.
- Remove the rear lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Remove the two upper mount nuts inside the trunk using a 14mm socket.
- Remove the rear shock from under the car.
Step 7: Rear shock installation
- Install the new rear shock and hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
- Torque fasteners to spec using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs:
- Torque the rear upper shock mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
- Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall the trunk liner using the flat trim tool.
Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
- Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment after replacing the front struts.
- If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and get aligned before longer driving.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)
DIY Cost: $280-$850 (parts only, depends on complete front assemblies vs struts only)
You Save: $620-$950 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















