🔧 Outback - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

Replacing the outer tie rod end restores tight steering and removes play at the front wheel. It’s also an alignment-critical part, so we’ll keep the toe (wheel pointing angle) as close as possible, then you should get a professional alignment right after.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support your Outback on jack stands before working under/around the suspension.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall when removing the cotter pin and nut.
• 🛞 Never work with only a floor jack holding the vehicle.
• 🧭 Plan for an alignment after the repair to prevent tire wear and pull.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket (19mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Open-end wrench set (17mm-22mm)
• Socket set (10mm-22mm)
• Pliers
• Pick tool
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (outer tie rod lock nut) - Qty: 1 (if required)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Mark the current alignment position: use a paint marker to mark the tie rod threads and jam nut location.
• Two quick questions (so I give exact torque specs and the correct steps):
  • Are you replacing the front left or front right outer tie rod end?
  • Is it the outer tie rod end at the wheel knuckle, or the inner tie rod end closer to the steering rack?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front corner

• Use a floor jack to lift at the approved front jacking point, then set the vehicle onto jack stands.
• Use a lug nut socket (19mm) and breaker bar to remove the wheel.
• Reinstall the lug nuts by hand for later, then set the wheel aside.

Step 2: Locate and prep the tie rod end

• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end nut at the knuckle and the jam nut on the tie rod using penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position and a reference line on the threads. Helps keep toe close.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and loosen hardware

• Use pliers and a pick tool to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud nut.
• Use the correctly-sized socket or open-end wrench to loosen (but not fully remove) the tie rod end stud nut.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to pop the stud out of the steering knuckle.
• A puller avoids damaging the boot.

Step 5: Count turns and remove the old tie rod end

• Hold the tie rod with the appropriate open-end wrench and loosen the jam nut with a second open-end wrench.
• Unthread the outer tie rod end while counting the exact number of turns it takes to come off (write it down).

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end (position match)

• Thread the new outer tie rod end on by the same number of turns you counted.
• Snug the jam nut with the appropriate open-end wrench (final torque depends on side/variant).

Step 7: Reconnect to the knuckle (FINAL TORQUE PENDING YOUR ANSWERS)

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle by hand.
• Install the stud nut using the correctly-sized socket.
• Stop here before final tightening: I’ll provide the exact Subaru torque spec and cotter-pin alignment direction once you confirm left/right and outer/inner.

Step 8: Reinstall wheel

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (88.5 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Road test at low speed first; confirm steering wheel is centered and there’s no clunk.
• 👁️ Visually confirm the cotter pin is installed (after final torque step) and the boot is not twisted or torn.
• 📏 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment varies by shop)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours, plus alignment.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.