🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and controls wheel “toe” (how the tires point in/out). Replacing it is straightforward, but you must keep the new one close to the old setting and get an alignment afterward to prevent tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Accord with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves; rust and debris fall easily.
• 🔥 If you drove recently, let brakes/rotors cool before working nearby.
• 📏 An alignment is required after replacement to protect tires and handling.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• 17mm socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• 22mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in reverse, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Turn the steering wheel so you have clear access to the tie rod end you’re replacing.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Mark your “toe” reference

• Spray the tie rod threads and jam nut with penetrating oil. Clean exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the inner tie rod threads.
• Measure from a fixed point (example: outer tie rod end housing) to the center of the stud using a tape measure, and write it down. This helps keep alignment close.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 22mm open-end wrench as needed, and crack the jam nut loose using a 22mm open-end wrench.
• Only loosen it 1-2 turns. Do not move it far yet.
• Jam nut = the “lock nut” that fixes toe.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end nut from the knuckle using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud “pops” free from the knuckle.
• A puller avoids damaging the rubber boot.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end

• Unscrew the tie rod end from the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write the number down.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Screw the new tie rod end on with the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker reference and your measured length using the tape measure.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle by hand.

Step 8: Tighten the tie rod end nut and install the cotter pin

• Tighten the tie rod end nut using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over securely.
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it does (do not loosen to align).

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut using a 22mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• Test drive at low speed and verify the steering wheel is close to centered and the car tracks straight.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Recheck the jam nut and lug nut torque after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + typical alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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