🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Outback, “engine mounts” can mean the left mount, right mount, and the pitch stopper (upper torque mount) on top of the engine. The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount(s) you’re replacing, so I want to aim you at the correct procedure the first time.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a jack; use jack stands on solid ground.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before loosening mount nuts/bolts; do not lift by the oil pan without a wood block.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; burns happen fast near the front pipe/cats.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear when raising/lowering the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lb range)
• Socket set (8mm–19mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–19mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Long extensions (3-inch, 6-inch, 12-inch)
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar (12–18 inch)
• Wood block (2x6-inch, ~12-inch long)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (left) - Qty: 1
• Engine mount (right) - Qty: 1
• Pitch stopper (upper engine torque mount) - Qty: 1
• New mount nuts/bolts (recommended if supplied with mounts) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench if you’ll work near electrical cables.
• Plan how you’ll support the engine: a floor jack with a wood block spreads the load (the wood block prevents denting/cracking components).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which “engine mounts” you’re replacing

• Please answer the two questions below before you loosen anything, because the access points and torque specs are different for each mount.
• Once you confirm, I’ll give you the exact, numbered removal/installation steps with the correct torque values for your Outback.

Step 2: (Pause) Do not remove mount fasteners yet

• If you remove mount nuts/bolts before the engine is properly supported, the engine can drop/shift and damage hoses, wiring, and exhaust joints.
• Use penetrating oil on visible mount hardware now to save time later.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck that all mount fasteners are torqued correctly and that no hoses or wiring are pinched.
• Start the engine and verify there’s no abnormal shaking, clunking, or exhaust contact.
• Test drive gently, then recheck for any new vibration at idle and during shifts.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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