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2021 Hyundai Tucson
2021 Hyundai Tucson
Value Edition - Inline 4 2.0L
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replacing front shock absorber - strut mount ... hyundai tucson 2021-2025 (torque specs)

replacing front shock absorber - strut mount ... hyundai tucson 2021-2025 (torque specs)

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2021 Hyundai Tucson (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a smooth DIY front suspension repair

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2021 Hyundai Tucson (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a smooth DIY front suspension repair

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Tucson - Front Strut Replacement

On your Tucson, the “struts” are the front suspension units that combine the shock absorber and the spring. Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and helps prevent uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both front)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
  • ⚠️ If you are not using a complete “quick-strut” assembly, a coil spring compressor is required; an uncompressed spring can cause severe injury.
  • ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so the CV axle isn’t pulled outward.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper/hose hang by the hose; avoid kinking or stretching lines and wiring.
  • ⚠️ Plan on a front wheel alignment after strut replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug wrench
  • Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (10mm-22mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
  • Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
  • Pry bar
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Paint marker
  • Bungee cord
  • Penetrating oil
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assembly (complete “quick-strut”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with strut - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop and dust boot kit - If not included with strut - Qty: 2
  • Front stabilizer (sway bar) link - Optional if worn - Qty: 2
  • New strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - If hardware is one-time-use or damaged - Qty: 4

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • 🧰 Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a lug wrench before lifting.
  • 🧰 If reusing springs (not a quick-strut), confirm you have a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely compresses the spring so you can remove the top nut).
  • 🧰 Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nut.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front end

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands and confirm it is stable.
  • Remove the front wheels using a lug wrench.

Step 2: Unclip brake/ABS line brackets from the strut

  • Use a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers to release any wire/clip retainers.
  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire bracket fasteners from the strut using a 10mm socket (some fasteners may be larger depending on bracket).
  • Support the wiring with a bungee cord so nothing is pulled tight.

Step 3: Disconnect the front sway bar link from the strut

  • Remove the stabilizer link nut at the strut using a wrench and socket (commonly 17mm).
  • If the stud spins, hold the stud with a wrench while turning the nut with a socket.
  • Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
  • Helps keep alignment close for the drive.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the knuckle/hub with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the two large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the knuckle using a breaker bar and socket set (19mm-22mm).
  • If needed, use a pry bar to gently separate the knuckle from the strut after the bolts are out.
  • Torque to 166 Nm (122 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

  • Open the hood and locate the strut tower top mount.
  • Remove the mount nuts using a socket set (typically 14mm).
  • Keep one nut loosely started until you’re ready to hold the strut from below.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

  • Hold the strut from below and remove the last top nut using a socket.
  • Lower and guide the strut out of the wheel well carefully.

Step 8: If using a quick-strut (recommended), skip to Step 10

  • If you are transferring the spring, install the coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring and compress evenly, side-to-side.
  • Remove the top center strut nut using a socket and wrench while holding the shaft as needed.
  • Transfer the spring, isolators, dust boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.
  • Slowly release the compressor and confirm the spring is seated in the upper and lower perches.

Step 9: Prepare the new strut assembly

  • Compare the old and new assemblies (mount orientation, bracket positions) before installing.
  • Make sure the upper mount studs match the body holes orientation.

Step 10: Install the strut into the tower

  • Lift the strut into place and hand-start the top mount nuts using a socket.
  • Do not fully tighten yet; leave it slightly loose to help align the knuckle.

Step 11: Attach the strut to the steering knuckle

  • Raise the knuckle with a floor jack until the bolt holes line up.
  • Install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts using a socket set.
  • Torque to 166 Nm (122 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reconnect the sway bar link and brackets

  • Install the stabilizer link nut using a socket and wrench.
  • Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) for small bracket bolts.

Step 13: Tighten the upper mount nuts

  • Tighten the top mount nuts evenly using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a lug wrench.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using a floor jack.
  • Final-tighten lug nuts using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm steering feels normal.
  • ✅ Recheck that brake hoses and ABS wires are not twisted or rubbing the tire.
  • ✅ Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • ✅ After 50-100 miles, recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.


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