🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes looseness, but it changes wheel alignment, so you’ll still need an alignment after.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Accord with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection when removing cotter pins and separating the joint.
• 🔥 If you drove recently, brakes/rotors can be hot; let them cool.
• 🧭 Plan on a professional alignment afterward; counting turns is only to get you close enough to drive.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" or 1/2"
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Measuring tape
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• 🧼 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut threads and the tie rod end stud/nut area; wait 5–10 minutes.
• 📏 Measure and record: use a measuring tape to measure from the center of the wheel hub to a fixed point on the tie rod end (or note a clear reference). This helps you get close on toe.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to crack the lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn.

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack to lift at the front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands placed at the proper support point.
• Keep wheel chocks on the rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.

Step 4: Mark the current tie rod end position

• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position on the threaded inner tie rod.
• Use a measuring tape to re-check your reference measurement and write it down.
• Tip: Take a quick photo before disassembly.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs.
• Use diagonal cutters to cut it if it’s rusty, then pull it out.
• Plan to install a new cotter pin during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end castle nut

• Use a 17mm wrench to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle.
• If the stud spins, press down on the tie rod end by hand while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the taper “pops” free. (A puller is a screw tool that presses the stud out without damaging threads.)
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle boss with a hammer (16 oz) while keeping light tension on the puller.
• Tip: Don’t hit the stud threads.

Step 8: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod area steady and use a 19mm wrench to loosen the jam nut (turn it counterclockwise).
• Back the jam nut away a few turns, but do not remove it yet.

Step 9: Remove the outer tie rod end (count turns)

• Rotate the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write it down.
• This helps keep toe close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 10: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Use your paint marker reference to get the jam nut close to its original position.

Step 11: Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle taper by hand.
• Install the castle nut, then use a 17mm wrench to tighten to Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly until it does (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the legs over.

Step 12: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body with a 19mm wrench and tighten the jam nut with a 19mm wrench to lock the adjustment.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower fully.
• Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock; confirm nothing binds or clunks.
• 🔍 Road test at low speed first; steering wheel may be slightly off-center until aligned.
• 📐 Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• 👂 Recheck for looseness or noise over bumps; if present, stop and inspect the joint and cotter pin.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (includes typical labor; alignment often extra)

DIY Cost: $30-$90 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $130-$360 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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