Howtoo Logo
2011 Honda CR-V
2011 Honda CR-V
LX - Inline 4 2.4L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

503.- 07-11 2008 HONDA CR-V 2.4 ENGINE MOUNT RIGHT SIDE REPLACEMENT DIY

503.- 07-11 2008 HONDA CR-V 2.4 ENGINE MOUNT RIGHT SIDE REPLACEMENT DIY

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
19mm
19mm
Wrench
or (23/32")
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011 Honda CR-V (FWD/AWD)

Step-by-step mount identification, safety tips, required tools/parts, and torque-spec guidance

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011 Honda CR-V (FWD/AWD)

Step-by-step mount identification, safety tips, required tools/parts, and torque-spec guidance

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 CR-V - Engine Mount Replacement

Your CR-V has multiple engine/transmission mounts (right/engine side, left/trans side, front, and rear). The correct steps and torque specs change a lot depending on which mount you’re replacing and whether your CR-V is FWD or AWD.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 1.5-6.0 hours (depends which mount)

Quick questions (so I can give exact steps + torque specs):

  • ❓ Which mount(s) are you replacing: right, left, front, rear, or all?
  • ❓ Is your CR-V FWD or AWD?

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
  • ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing a mount. Use a floor jack with a wood block to spread the load (the wood prevents denting/cracking the oil pan area).
  • ⚠️ Don’t lift the engine high—only enough to take weight off the mount. Lifting too much can tear hoses/wiring.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear while you raise/lower the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is usually not required, but if you’ll remove the battery tray/ECU area to access the left mount, disconnect the negative terminal with a 10mm wrench.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Wood block (2x6 or similar)
  • Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
  • Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench 10-200 Nm range
  • Extensions set 3"-10"
  • Universal joint adapter
  • Trim clip tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Pry bar
  • Penetrating oil
  • Work light
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Right (engine side) mount - Qty: 1
  • Left (transmission side) mount - Qty: 1
  • Front mount - Qty: 1
  • Rear mount - Qty: 1
  • Mount hardware (nuts/bolts as needed) - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • If you’ll be working underneath, raise the front with a floor jack and support on jack stands at the proper lift points.
  • Spray visible mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
  • Plan your engine support: position the floor jack and wood block under the engine so you can gently “carry” the engine weight while the mount is out.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify the mount you’re replacing

  • Open the hood and locate the right mount near the passenger-side fender (engine timing cover side).
  • Locate the left mount near the driver-side fender (on/near the transmission side).
  • From underneath, locate the front and rear mounts (they tie the drivetrain to the subframe).
  • Use a work light to confirm which mount has torn rubber, leaking hydraulic fluid (some mounts are fluid-filled), or excessive movement.

Step 2: Safely support the engine (required before any mount removal)

  • Place the wood block on the floor jack pad.
  • Raise the jack until the wood just contacts the engine safely (light pressure only).
  • Tip: Lift only enough to “unload” the mount.

Step 3: Stop here for exact removal steps + torque specs

  • Tell me which mount(s) you’re doing and whether it’s FWD or AWD.
  • Then I’ll give you the exact access steps (what to remove), the correct bolt/nut locations, and every tightening step with Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Double-check that all fasteners are started by hand before tightening (prevents cross-threading).
  • Lower the engine support jack slowly and watch that the mount studs line up cleanly.
  • Start the engine and check for abnormal vibration at idle.
  • Road test: gentle acceleration and braking; recheck for clunks.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts + labor, depends which mount and how many)

DIY Cost: $80-$500 (parts only, depends which mount and how many)

You Save: $250-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-6.0 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn