How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011 Honda CR-V (FWD/AWD)
Step-by-step mount identification, safety tips, required tools/parts, and torque-spec guidance
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2011 Honda CR-V (FWD/AWD)
Step-by-step mount identification, safety tips, required tools/parts, and torque-spec guidance


🔧 CR-V - Engine Mount Replacement
Your CR-V has multiple engine/transmission mounts (right/engine side, left/trans side, front, and rear). The correct steps and torque specs change a lot depending on which mount you’re replacing and whether your CR-V is FWD or AWD.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 1.5-6.0 hours (depends which mount)
Quick questions (so I can give exact steps + torque specs):
- ❓ Which mount(s) are you replacing: right, left, front, rear, or all?
- ❓ Is your CR-V FWD or AWD?
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
- ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing a mount. Use a floor jack with a wood block to spread the load (the wood prevents denting/cracking the oil pan area).
- ⚠️ Don’t lift the engine high—only enough to take weight off the mount. Lifting too much can tear hoses/wiring.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear while you raise/lower the engine; mounts can “shift” suddenly.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is usually not required, but if you’ll remove the battery tray/ECU area to access the left mount, disconnect the negative terminal with a 10mm wrench.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Wood block (2x6 or similar)
- Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
- Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench 10-200 Nm range
- Extensions set 3"-10"
- Universal joint adapter
- Trim clip tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Pry bar
- Penetrating oil
- Work light
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right (engine side) mount - Qty: 1
- Left (transmission side) mount - Qty: 1
- Front mount - Qty: 1
- Rear mount - Qty: 1
- Mount hardware (nuts/bolts as needed) - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- If you’ll be working underneath, raise the front with a floor jack and support on jack stands at the proper lift points.
- Spray visible mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
- Plan your engine support: position the floor jack and wood block under the engine so you can gently “carry” the engine weight while the mount is out.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify the mount you’re replacing
- Open the hood and locate the right mount near the passenger-side fender (engine timing cover side).
- Locate the left mount near the driver-side fender (on/near the transmission side).
- From underneath, locate the front and rear mounts (they tie the drivetrain to the subframe).
- Use a work light to confirm which mount has torn rubber, leaking hydraulic fluid (some mounts are fluid-filled), or excessive movement.
Step 2: Safely support the engine (required before any mount removal)
- Place the wood block on the floor jack pad.
- Raise the jack until the wood just contacts the engine safely (light pressure only).
- Tip: Lift only enough to “unload” the mount.
Step 3: Stop here for exact removal steps + torque specs
- Tell me which mount(s) you’re doing and whether it’s FWD or AWD.
- Then I’ll give you the exact access steps (what to remove), the correct bolt/nut locations, and every tightening step with Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Double-check that all fasteners are started by hand before tightening (prevents cross-threading).
- Lower the engine support jack slowly and watch that the mount studs line up cleanly.
- Start the engine and check for abnormal vibration at idle.
- Road test: gentle acceleration and braking; recheck for clunks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts + labor, depends which mount and how many)
DIY Cost: $80-$500 (parts only, depends which mount and how many)
You Save: $250-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-6.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















