🔧 Outback - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and controls toe (wheel pointing angle). Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but you must keep the new part close to the old length and get an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Outback on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses; rust and debris often fall when separating the taper.
• 🔥 If you drive first, let brakes/rotors cool before working near the knuckle.
• 🧭 Plan for an alignment: driving far without one can ruin tires quickly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10-100 Nm range)
• Torque wrench 1/2" (40-200 Nm range)
• 19mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• Pliers
• Pick tool
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie-rod jam nut threads and the tie-rod end stud nut.
• Pro tip: Take a clear “before” photo.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch weld/jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark and measure for a close toe setting

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point (like the end of the inner tie rod) to the center of the tie rod end stud; write it down.
• Pro tip: This helps you drive to alignment safely.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud

• Clean the area with a wire brush.
• Straighten and pull the cotter pin using pliers and a pick tool.

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end castle nut

• Remove the stud nut using a 17mm wrench or 19mm wrench (size varies by replacement part).
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure to the joint while loosening, or use the tie rod end puller (specialty) to hold tension.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the taper “pops” loose.
• If needed, strike the side of the knuckle boss (not the threads) with a hammer (16 oz) while keeping light tension on the puller.
• Tie rod puller: a tool that presses the joint apart safely.

Step 6: Loosen the jam nut and remove the old tie rod end

• Hold the inner tie rod (if needed) and loosen the jam nut using a 19mm wrench.
• Unscrew the tie rod end by hand while counting turns (example: “17 turns”).
• Write the exact number of turns down.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted, by hand.
• Snug the jam nut against the tie rod end using a 19mm wrench (final torque comes after the stud is seated).

Step 8: Seat the stud into the knuckle and torque the nut

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut and tighten using a torque wrench and the correct 17mm or 19mm tool.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs), then continue tightening just enough to align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 9: Torque the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body with a wrench so it doesn’t twist the boot.
• Tighten the jam nut using a torque wrench and 19mm wrench.
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm the boot isn’t twisted and nothing binds.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is close to straight and there’s no clunking.
• Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck the cotter pin and look for any grease/boot damage after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $30-$90 (parts only, per side)

You Save: $150-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Assumption: This procedure is for the front outer tie rod end (most common).