🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts are rubber-and-metal supports that hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. When they tear or collapse, you’ll feel extra shaking, clunks on acceleration/deceleration, or the shifter may move more than normal. This job replaces the left and right engine mounts under the engine.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; don’t let it hang.
• ⚠️ Never lift the engine by the oil pan without a wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the engine and crossmember while raising/lowering.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working underneath.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x4 or similar)
• 14mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 12mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Socket extensions (3" and 6")
• Swivel/universal joint adapter
• Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount self-locking nuts - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• 🧰 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🧰 Spray penetrating oil on the engine mount nuts and mount bolts and let it soak 10 minutes.
• 🧰 Plan how you’ll support the engine: you’ll use a floor jack and a wood block under the engine.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the Outback

• Use a floor jack to lift the front from the approved front jacking point.
• Place the vehicle securely on jack stands and confirm stability with a gentle shake.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver to remove clips.
• Use a 12mm socket to remove any bolts.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Place a wood block on the cup of the floor jack.
• Position it under the engine’s lower area and apply light upward pressure until you see the engine just “take weight.”
• Lift only enough to unload the mounts.
• A “wood block” is used to spread the load so you don’t dent a component.

Step 4: Remove the mount-to-crossmember nuts (both mounts)

• From underneath, locate the mount studs going down into the front crossmember.
• Use a 14mm socket, ratchet, and extension to remove the nut on each mount.

Step 5: Remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts (one side at a time)

• Pick one mount to do first (left or right).
• Use a 14mm socket with a swivel/universal joint adapter and extensions to remove the mount bolts that attach the mount to the engine bracket.
• If a bolt is tight, use a breaker bar carefully.

Step 6: Lift the engine slightly and remove the mount

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine slowly in small amounts.
• Use a pry bar gently if needed to free the mount from its pocket.
• Remove the old mount from below.

Step 7: Install the new mount and align the studs

• Place the new mount into position by hand.
• Use the floor jack to slightly raise/lower the engine until the mount lines up with the engine bracket holes and the studs drop into the crossmember.
• Start the mount-to-bracket bolts by hand (don’t tighten yet) using a 14mm socket.
• Start the mount nut by hand on the stud using a 14mm socket.

Step 8: Tighten and torque the fasteners

• Use a torque wrench to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket bolts: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the mount-to-crossmember nut: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other engine mount

• Repeat Steps 5 through 8 for the remaining mount using the same 14mm socket, extensions, and torque wrench.

Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the splash shield using a 12mm socket and clips with a trim clip tool.
• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove jack stands, then lower the vehicle.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and let it idle; verify vibration is reduced and the engine doesn’t “rock” excessively.
• 🧪 With the hood open, lightly blip the throttle and listen for clunks.
• 🧪 Test drive and check for thuds on takeoff, shifting, and deceleration.
• 🧪 Recheck for any loose fasteners or a shield rubbing after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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