How to Replace a Rear Window Regulator on a 2015 Honda Accord (Step-by-Step)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for rear door window regulator and motor replacement
How to Replace a Rear Window Regulator on a 2015 Honda Accord (Step-by-Step)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for rear door window regulator and motor replacement


🔧 Accord - Rear Window Regulator Replacement
The rear window regulator is the cable-and-track assembly that moves the glass up and down. When it fails, the window may move crooked, bind, fall into the door, or stop moving. This job is mostly careful trim removal and safely handling the glass.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per door)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the regulator scissors/cable path while powered.
- ⚠️ Support the glass with tape before unbolting clamps; falling glass can shatter.
- ⚠️ Use a plastic trim tool to avoid breaking clips and cutting the vapor barrier.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect: Recommended if you’ll unplug connectors near the door harness; use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Plastic trim removal tool set
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Flat trim pick tool
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- 10mm wrench
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm)
- Painters tape (1.5")
- Magnetic parts tray
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
- Rear window motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included with regulator)
- Rear door panel clip set - Qty: 1 (recommended)
- Butyl door vapor barrier sealant - Qty: 1 (recommended)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Accord on level ground and turn the ignition OFF.
- Lower the rear window until you can access the glass clamp bolts through the door access holes (if it still moves).
- If you’re disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal and wait 2 minutes.
- Know this term: the vapor barrier is the plastic sheet behind the door panel that keeps water off the cabin side.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear door switch/handle trim
- Use a plastic trim removal tool set to gently pry up the window switch panel.
- Unplug the switch connector by pressing the tab (use a flat trim pick tool if needed).
- Use a plastic trim removal tool set to pop off the small trim cover behind the inside door handle (if equipped), then remove the screw with a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
Step 2: Remove the rear door panel
- Remove any remaining screws in the armrest/pull pocket using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Starting at the bottom edge, use a plastic trim removal tool set to pop the door panel clips free, one by one.
- Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge.
- Disconnect any remaining connectors and unclip the door-handle cable (use a flashlight to see the cable retainer clearly).
- Tip: Pull near each clip, not the middle.
Step 3: Peel back the vapor barrier
- Carefully peel the plastic vapor barrier back using your hands and a plastic trim removal tool set.
- If the sticky sealant strings: roll it off gently and plan to reseal with butyl door vapor barrier sealant.
Step 4: Secure the glass so it can’t fall
- Use painters tape (1.5") to tape the glass to the door frame at the top (two long strips over the top of the door and onto the outside of the glass).
- If the window is stuck down: manually raise the glass by hand as you guide it, then tape it securely.
- Tip: Add extra tape; glass is heavy.
Step 5: Unbolt the glass from the regulator
- Through the access holes, locate the two glass clamp bolts.
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" extension (1/4" drive) to remove/loosen the clamp bolts and free the glass from the regulator sliders.
- Once free, push the glass fully up and re-tape it securely.
- Torque on reassembly: Torque to 10 N·m (7 ft-lbs) for the glass clamp bolts.
Step 6: Disconnect and remove the regulator/motor assembly
- Unplug the window motor connector.
- Remove the regulator and motor mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Guide the regulator assembly out through the largest access opening in the door.
- Torque on reassembly: Torque to 9 N·m (80 in-lbs) for regulator/motor mounting bolts.
Step 7: If needed, transfer the motor to the new regulator
- If your replacement regulator did not include a motor, remove the motor screws/bolts from the old regulator using a 10mm socket or Phillips #2 screwdriver (varies by part design).
- Install the motor onto the new regulator and snug fasteners evenly.
- Torque on reassembly: Torque to 9 N·m (80 in-lbs) for motor fasteners (if 10mm bolts are used).
Step 8: Install the new regulator
- Insert the new regulator into the door and position it on the mounting points.
- Start all bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading, then tighten with a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Torque: Torque to 9 N·m (80 in-lbs).
Step 9: Reattach the glass to the regulator
- Plug the motor connector back in.
- Turn ignition ON and use the switch to move the regulator until the clamp points line up with the glass holes (keep fingers clear).
- Lower the glass carefully into the clamps and install the clamp bolts using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" extension (1/4" drive).
- Torque: Torque to 10 N·m (7 ft-lbs).
- Remove the painters tape (1.5") once the glass is fully secured.
Step 10: Function test before reassembly
- Cycle the window fully down and fully up using the switch.
- Listen for clicking/grinding and watch for the glass tilting forward/back.
- If it tilts: loosen the regulator bolts with a 10mm socket, slightly adjust, then torque to 9 N·m (80 in-lbs) again.
Step 11: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel
- Press the vapor barrier back into place; add butyl door vapor barrier sealant if the seal isn’t sticky anymore.
- Reconnect the handle cable and all electrical connectors.
- Hang the panel on the top window ledge first, then press clips in around the perimeter by hand.
- Reinstall screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, then snap trim covers back on using a plastic trim removal tool set.
✅ After Repair
- Verify the rear window goes up/down smoothly and seals at the top.
- Make sure the door handle opens from inside and outside.
- If you disconnected the battery, reconnect using a 10mm wrench and confirm the window switch illumination works.
- If the window has an auto feature and acts “confused”: hold the switch in the UP position for 2 seconds after fully closed, then hold DOWN for 2 seconds after fully open.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90-$250 (parts only)
You Save: $260-$450 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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