🔧 Accord - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause loose steering, clunks, or uneven tire wear. You’ll remove the old end, install the new one to the same length, then get a professional alignment to protect your tires.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels and leave the transmission in 1st gear with the parking brake on.
• 🛑 Keep fingers clear of the steering knuckle pinch areas while separating the joint.
• 🛑 After replacement, you still need a front toe alignment ASAP to avoid rapid tire wear.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs)
• Metric socket set (10–22mm)
• Metric combination wrench set (10–24mm)
• Pliers (needle-nose)
• Side cutters (diagonal cutters)
• Ball joint / tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 (per side)
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1 (per side)
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel centered, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end castle nut area and the jam nut threads.
• Have a plan for alignment: drive gently and book an alignment right after.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack and support the car with jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using the 19mm socket.

Step 2: Mark and measure the current tie rod position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut against the tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to record the distance from the jam nut to the center of the tie rod end stud. This helps keep toe close.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
• If it breaks, cut it off with side cutters and remove the pieces.

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end castle nut

• Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud using the appropriate size from your metric socket set (10–22mm).

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint / tie rod end puller (specialty) on the joint and tighten it with a wrench from your metric combination wrench set (10–24mm) until the stud pops free.
• If it’s stubborn, tap the side of the knuckle boss with a hammer (16 oz) while keeping tension on the puller.
• A puller is safer than a pickle fork.

Step 6: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench from your metric combination wrench set (10–24mm) and loosen the jam nut with another wrench from the same set.
• Do not spin the inner tie rod—just crack the jam nut loose.

Step 7: Unscrew the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Rotate the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it and write it down. This keeps alignment close.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Screw on the new tie rod end the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up your paint marks and measured distance as closely as possible.

Step 9: Install stud into knuckle and torque the castle nut

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut and tighten with the correct socket from your metric socket set (10–22mm).
• Use a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs): Torque to 49 N·m (36 ft-lbs).
• Continue tightening slightly until the cotter pin hole aligns—do not loosen to align.

Step 10: Install a new cotter pin

• Slide in a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Bend the legs over securely with needle-nose pliers.

Step 11: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a wrench from your metric combination wrench set (10–24mm).
• Tighten the jam nut with another wrench from the same set: Torque to 55 N·m (41 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using the 19mm socket.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs): Torque to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks; steering should feel stable.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment (or at minimum front toe) as soon as possible.
• Recheck the castle nut cotter pin seating after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + basic alignment check; full alignment may add more)

DIY Cost: $25-$90 (parts only, per side)

You Save: $90-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.