🔧 Crosstour - Battery Replacement

Replacing your Crosstour’s 12V battery restores reliable starting and prevents random electrical glitches. This job is mostly careful disconnect/reconnect work so you don’t damage electronics or the battery terminals.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves; batteries can vent acid and explosive gas.
• ⚠️ Keep sparks/flames away; do not smoke near the battery.
• ⚠️ Always disconnect the negative (-) cable first, and reconnect it last.
• ⚠️ Do not let a tool bridge between the battery positive and body metal (it can short and arc).
• ⚠️ Your settings may reset (clock/radio presets). If your audio system requests an anti-theft code, have it available before disconnecting.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (1/4" drive)
• 10mm combination wrench
• Battery terminal brush
• Digital multimeter
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or small Nm range)
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Fender cover

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (BCI Group 35 or 51R as equipped) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal corrosion protection pads - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine bay cool if it’s hot.
• Make sure you know where the negative (-) terminal is (usually black cable) and the positive (+) terminal is (usually under a red cover).
• Assumption: Your Crosstour uses either a Group 35 or Group 51R battery—match the group size and orientation to the label on your old battery (or owner’s manual spec).

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the replacement battery matches

• Check the old battery label for group size (like 35 or 51R), and compare to the new one.
• Verify the positive (+) and negative (-) posts are in the same positions as the old battery so the cables reach.
• Take a quick photo before removing anything.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable

• Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
• Twist and lift the clamp off the negative post, then tuck the cable to the side so it can’t spring back.
• Torque on install: Torque to 5 N·m (4 ft-lbs)
• Negative off first prevents accidental shorting.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) battery cable

• Flip up/open the positive terminal cover if equipped.
• Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut.
• Remove the clamp from the positive post and keep it from touching metal.
• Torque on install: Torque to 5 N·m (4 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

• The hold-down is the bar/brace that clamps the battery in place.
• Use a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension to remove the hold-down nuts/bolts.
• Lift off the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
• Torque on install: Torque to 9.8 N·m (7 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Carefully lift the battery straight up and out (it’s heavy).
• Set it on the ground upright.
• Lift with legs, not your back.

Step 6: Clean the tray and terminals

• Inspect the battery tray for white/blue crust (corrosion). Wipe it clean.
• Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of each cable clamp until the metal looks bright.
• Install corrosion protection pads on the posts (if using).
• Clean metal = better starting.

Step 7: Install the new battery

• Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque: Torque to 9.8 N·m (7 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) cable first

• Install the positive clamp onto the positive post.
• Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the clamp nut.
• Torque: Torque to 5 N·m (4 ft-lbs)
• Close the positive terminal cover.

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) cable last

• Install the negative clamp onto the negative post.
• Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the clamp nut.
• Torque: Torque to 5 N·m (4 ft-lbs)
• Spray battery terminal protectant on the terminals if using.

Step 10: Quick voltage check

• Use a digital multimeter across the battery posts with the engine OFF.
• A healthy fully-charged battery is typically about 12.6V (lower is okay if it sat on a shelf).

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm normal cranking and no warning lights staying on.
• Reset the clock and radio presets if needed.
• Re-initialize the driver’s window auto function (common after battery disconnect): use the window switch to fully lower, then fully raise and hold the switch up for 2 seconds.
• Idle learn (helps stabilize idle after battery disconnect): warm the engine fully, turn all accessories OFF (A/C, headlights), then let it idle in Park for about 5 minutes.
• Recycle the old battery—most parts stores in Reno area take it back for a core credit.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $170-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$180 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.